Problem with angle design of table base


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I almost broke all my tools in half today due to frustration. I am a hybrid woodworker and enjoyed the book of the same name. I have never been to school or class for woodworking. Everything I have learned I taught myself from books and videos. To the point:

I build furniture for others on commission in my spare time. I am full time in the health field.

I recently got some beautiful reclaimed oak from good wood Nashville for a coffee table. The clients loved it and want two end tables to match. I came up with this inverted x base and I cannot get the angles right to match the width and height.

I started with all 45 degree cuts and a half lap joint in the exact middle of both pieces. The joint is one of the best I've seen. It held my 200 lbs with no glue or anything. The problem is I need to go higher but have maxed out the width I have for the tables. If I keep the angles as is, it will go too wide when I lengthen it.

I am sure there is an easy solution, but like I said I learn things as I go usually. You all are the only ones I know to ask.

Please help. I am attaching the coffee table I built and then the practice base I made that is too wide and short.

Thanks in advance.post-18166-0-73323300-1435533279_thumb.jpost-18166-0-18760200-1435533288_thumb.jpost-18166-0-48698500-1435533296_thumb.j

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I use a sheet of 1/4" MDF to draw full scale. Easy to erase with a random orbit sander .

I agree with all the others.

Draw a side view of your "X" full size on a 4'x8' sheet.

Take a digital bevel gauge and get your angles figured out.

Build a prototype out of cheap pine or poplar to insure your calculations are acceptable.

Then go to it...

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Yes, I specialize in math. What is the rectangle dimension the crossed legs must fit? This is the height in inches and the width of your top in inches. (Or cm if you must)

Thank you so much for the help. I wish I could attach pictures to this reply. I need help with the angles of the top/bottom and the angle at which the two pieces half lap in the center. Anyhow, the table needs to fit these parameters:

Height: 24 " (without the top of course)

Width: 22 " (cannot extend past due to the picture frame around the table)

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Here are the updates photos. As you see, I laid out a perfect rectangle and cut the angles to fit from bottom right to top left. It was two 40 degree cuts. When I cut the second piece to match, as you see it doesn't fit in the rectangle. I checked for square so I don't know what to do? In the other photo, when I put the pieces together level, it ends up wider on top then bottom and too short? I don't know what's going on. Please help...

post-18166-0-53718200-1435668801_thumb.j

post-18166-0-37823400-1435668812_thumb.j

post-18166-0-32073900-1435668824_thumb.j

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Mark, The only way to get all of the legs of the X to be the same length is if the rectangle becomes a square, which means that you will have to lower the height to 22" if you must maintain the width! I'm not a math professor but I'm almost positive this to be correct.

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Mark, The only way to get all of the legs of the X to be the same length is if the rectangle becomes a square, which means that you will have to lower the height to 22" if you must maintain the width! I'm not a math professor but I'm almost positive this to be correct.

I'm going to try this on paper, but it sounds like coop is right.

If this is the case, you could build your project as a square and then add some feet to bring it up to your desired height. Not sure if this will affect the look you are going for or not.

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Thanks guys. I guess I didn't understand the square thing. If it doesn't matter about them being the same length, would those dimensions work? The bottom of the table could technically spread wider than 22". Up to 25" without getting too big. I just thought that if the math was done right the appropriate angles would get me 22" top and bottom with the height I need.

Also Pug - I'm not opposed to the feet and originally designed that in. I would like to figure this out without since the material will end up 3" thick.

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Mark, This still can be done to get your dimensions but the junction of the two legs will have to be raised or lowered, thus making the two legs on the top shorter than the two at the bottom, or vise versa, but not by much. And as others have said, a good way to do this is with a full scale pattern.

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