Subfloor on concrete

[socoj2]

So in my basement i have a concrete floor that was poured over a a Vapor barrier. I would like to put together a subfloor so i can lay real hardwood floors any ideas so i dont end up with a 3" floor. that wouldnt be terrible since i have to redo the door entry anyway. The first step going upstairs would be off not much i can do about that.

 

I was thinking

 

Vapor barrier

grid of 1x1

3/4 OSB subfloor

 

This is a completely unfinished basement as well.

 

Or is this a fairly standard thing and im just slow?

[Woodenskye]

What about the dri core panels? It would be more expensive, but I think you could skip the vapor barrier.

[Raefco]

There are lots of engineered systems made for this, internet search basement subfloor. Since you are wanting to go hard wood, a cold hard floor, another option would be a simulated wood grain ceramic tile, some look very good and come in lengths up to 24" and will not succumb to moister or mold with the proper instillation and additives.

[Larry Moore]

I used drip core panels. They are easy to install and you can build walls on top of them.

[shaneymack]

I think the dri core panels would be ideal if height is an issue seeing as you get a vapour barrier and subfloor all in one. However, im not a fan of anything aspenite. Not sure how that will hold up over time, i have never used them myself. But then again, i dont think hardwood belongs in a basement. Too risky. Lots of options nowadays for basements. Ceramic like raefco mentioned and there is new simili wood vinyl click flooring which is surpisingly nice and can be installed directly on concrete, never rot and is virtually indestructible. Its also only around 1/8" thick.

http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/luxury-vinyl.html

[rodger.]

The problem with dri core is that you have to level all of those little panels (and the at are very pricey). Some common practise here is to lay out a roll of foundation wrap (delta) and then put full sheets of plywood on top (drive into floor with tap cons if you choose). A heck of lot quicker, less expensive, and no small tiles to level!

http://www.deltams.ca/deltams_deltams.htm

The black membrane on the underside of the dri core panel is the same material as delta ms.

[ncfowler]

do a test, get a any pice of cremaic tile, lay on the floor for over night, the next day and look for discolor once you turn over the tile, this is a sure sign you have a moisture in your basement, there are several sealers you can buy to seal the floor, once you seal the floor you should beable to put down a poly foam vapror tyveck vapor barrier and proceed, one thing you should do is check your walls as well, your floor my be fine but if your wall is permiting moisture to enter the area cement will draw in moisture, just my 2 cent. also don't go cheap, in the long run it will pay for it's self

[Dave H]

If you already have a vapor barrier under the slab why add a second  VB? If it was me I would just ram set some 2x4 treated sleepers 1 1/2" side to the slab if you want a redundant VB lay some poly down before shooting down the sleepers then screw the T&G 3/4" sub floor sheeting now your only 2 1/4" above the slab at this point and a hell of a lot more money for flooring. If the slab is fairly flat you could do a floating floor and than you would only be above the slab the thickness of the flooring material, on a floating floor you roll out a VB/padding material then lay the flooring.

[Eric.]

I'm wondering why you have to use solid hardwood?  I'm getting ready to put wood floors in my basement, too...I'll be using engineered.  The top layer is all that counts...and it looks exactly the same as hardwood but it doesn't have all the issues hardwood has in a basement.  You can still refinish engineered once or twice which is all you can refinish hardwood.  I plan to put a vapor barrier down and float the floor.

 

Anyone who knows me knows I'm a wood snob...and obviously solid hardwood is always preferable...but only when practical.  There's nothing wrong with engineered hardwood floors...think high-quality hardwood ply in furniture making...there's a time and place for that, too.

[socoj2]

I'm wondering why you have to use solid hardwood?  I'm getting ready to put wood floors in my basement, too...I'll be using engineered.  The top layer is all that counts...and it looks exactly the same as hardwood but it doesn't have all the issues hardwood has in a basement.  You can still refinish engineered once or twice which is all you can refinish hardwood.  I plan to put a vapor barrier down and float the floor.

 

Anyone who knows me knows I'm a wood snob...and obviously solid hardwood is always preferable...but only when practical.  There's nothing wrong with engineered hardwood floors...think high-quality hardwood ply in furniture making...there's a time and place for that, too.

 

its want vs need. I have engineered on my main floor because it was the right flooring for what i wanted. what i want in the business is a particular look i cant get with engineered.

[Eric.]

What look?  Engineered is not laminate...it's real wood...just plywood.  You can't tell the difference between engineered and hardwood unless you're installing it...or if you've found a particular species in hardwood that's unavailable in engineered.  The top 1/8" is essentially the same either way.