HVLP and real milk paint?


bglenden

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I'm thinking of getting an HVLP system and wonder if you can spray real milk paint with it? A quick search here seems to indicate that people have good luck with HVLP and GF milk paint, however my understanding is that that is not a real milk paint (no criticism, it looks awesome, I just happen to have a couple of types of real milk paint already I should use up!)

 

Cheers,

Brian

 

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Pretty sure GF milk paint claims on the can you can run it through hvlp and airless sprayers . You need at least a 1.8 needle and air cap .  I dont know about whether its a real milk paint or not but I use it alot ( never sprayed it yet) I love the stuff , covers very easy with no bonding issues at all . 

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If you thin anything enough it will spray. That being said you may sacrifice cure / dry times (May take longer), may have to do more coats for complete coverage and possibly not have as good of longevity / durability. If it's for interior use, the last is probably not much of a concern. Best thing as suggested above is to do some testing :-)

GF isn't really a milk paint, but it does offer similar appearance to the real thing. If you're looking to paint something that you've spent some time building or refinishing it might be better to actually buy some GF paint ;-)

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GF "Milk Paint" sprays GREAT!   It's outstanding stuff.

 

I did an entire kitchen, including 24 doors and 16 drawer fronts last fall.   I used a Fuji 4 stage, #4 setup with a pressurized suction feed cup, and added about 10% water.  

 

On the existing kitchen, I sprayed BIN pigmented shellac as a sealer / problem preventer, followed by two coats of "Linen"...

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I'm thinking of getting an HVLP system and wonder if you can spray real milk paint with it? A quick search here seems to indicate that people have good luck with HVLP and GF milk paint, however my understanding is that that is not a real milk paint (no criticism, it looks awesome, I just happen to have a couple of types of real milk paint already I should use up!)

 

Cheers,

Brian

Right.  GF "milk paint" is basically flat acrylic paint.  Similar to what they sell at the craft store in the tiny little bottles.  It's not bad stuff, but it's not traditional milk paint either.

 

To answer your question on real milk paint, it should spray OK if you thin it enough.  But it will require quite a few coats if you thin it down that much.  Mixed full strength it is kind of thick.  Sort of like heavy cream. It is also a bit frothy/foamy when first mixed.  Not sure how this would affect the HVLP.  The air from the gun might introduce bubbles, but I don't know for sure having never tried it myself. Real milk paint is made with lime, so has a mild caustic effect to it.  It's not dangerous at all, it's just not neutral pH.  It's slightly alkaline. Not sure how this would impact the internals of the HVLP since I don't own one.  Being mixed with nothing more than water, cleanup should be very easy.  Just use lots of clean water.  So I'd say try it and see how it works for you.  I'd try it on scrap first though, just to be safe.  Not that it's hard to repair milk paint, just to save some time.

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The name "milk paint" is just a marketing term for General Finishes kind of like the "water based lacquer." It's actually an acrylic base. GF was going after the furniture markets where the original milk paint was sold. GF milk paint is a better product and lasts longer. The words "milk paint" are not trademarked. It's a generic term. 

 

I know, too much information. :P

 

-Ace-

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