My new crosscut sled


Cliff

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This is my third sled in five months. If you'll remember my first posts here were about how to make a sled that didn't suck. Inevitably, I failed that time and the one after. But I think this one is doing pretty well. 

 

I borrowed heavily from many people online and I'd thank them but I don't remember their names. 

 

I find the stop block a great thing to have but don't really like having to clamp one on all the time. So I picked up a 4 foot Kreg Top Trak and installed that. I got a production stop and swing stop. I'm going to possibly tap the production stop and put a block of wood on the bottom so it reaches further down. The Kreg track is not made for a five inch fence so I have to tweak some stuff. I haven't decided what I am doing with the swing stop. I just got it because I didn't know which I would like/need. I'm not sure I can modify it quite the same as the production stop to make it reach further down. Oh also.. my first ever wooden miter bars. I'd like to thank grr-ipper for that. 

 

post-17490-0-18184100-1437011437_thumb.j

 

On the back I installed a 3 inch thick piece of oak where the blade comes out because it seemed like a safety feature that may be useless but certainly wouldn't hurt. Then I drilled holes and glued in the 3/4" dowels for handles. 

 

I also routed out a 3 inch tall part of the fence for a key that attaches to a 2 foot piece and extends the fence. It works decently. I sorta put the tee-nuts in wrong because I didn't understand how they go on. Oh well. The idea is that I'd get another 2 foot section of Kreg track and put on the extension so I can run my stop block out even further. 

 

post-17490-0-03732500-1437011429_thumb.j

 

Appreciate any comments or advice on improvement. Not to mention thoughts on how to extend my stops. :D

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Appreciate any comments or advice on improvement. Not to mention thoughts on how to extend my stops. :D

 

For your next one I'd get rid of the construction lumber and MDF and use baltic birch ply for the whole thing.  Solid wood for the fence - especially 2x4s - can end up moving and throwing you out of square.  And MDF just doesn't hold up.

 

Otherwise, good job...it's got some bling on it.  I don't find clamping all that annoying but whatever floats yer boat. :)

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Yep, nice looking sled!

 

I use track in mine as well for stop blocks but, just put them in the face of the back piece leaving a space in the middle for the blade.  Then I just made a couple blocks that slide in the track as needed.

 

http://imageshack.com/a/img809/2159/y326.jpg

 

I came close to doing exactly what you did there and may someday switch to it. I wanted to try this out and I figured if it doesn't work then i have what I need for part of a miter station.

 

 

For your next one I'd get rid of the construction lumber and MDF and use baltic birch ply for the whole thing.  Solid wood for the fence - especially 2x4s - can end up moving and throwing you out of square.  And MDF just doesn't hold up.

 

Otherwise, good job...it's got some bling on it.  I don't find clamping all that annoying but whatever floats yer boat. :)

 

Well, we're going to see what goes on with the pine. My last had oak. If nothing else, pine is a hell of a lot lighter. My thoughts here were "$10 for 8 foot 2x8" - if it goes wonky on me I'll get something different, lesson learned. So far, I haven't tapped or drilled the kreg track because it was a very snug fit so I haven't done anything permanent other than glue the handles to the base.

 

I'm also interested in seeing how the mdf goes. So far I've not had a sled last more than 90 days due to poor construction, mistakes, etc. So I've not seen how long my base holds up.

 

At this point, I'm pretty confident I could throw together another one with a plywood base, hardwood fences and have all these same features in a few hours at most. :D

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hardwood fences

 

No...plywood fences.  Use two pieces and glue them together on a flat surface like your workbench or jointer bed.

 

Hardwood moves, that's the point.  You want something dimensionally stable so once you get it set dead nuts, it stays that way.

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No...plywood fences.  Use two pieces and glue them together on a flat surface like your workbench or jointer bed.

 

Hardwood moves, that's the point.  You want something dimensionally stable so once you get it set dead nuts, it stays that way.

 

I may end up doing this since I can just grab a 2x4 sheet easy enough and cut it up. Honestly I wouldn't mind the fence a little lower anyway.

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So question to all ...

Is the piece on the back needed? Is it just to support the 2 pieces of the sled or what? I've seen several sleds without it so I was curious.

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It's just for extra support when you remove the sled. It is necessary on a sled of this size, even more in this case because it's made of MDF.

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I did last night. It was all good. Of course if I swap out the fence to a plywood one I'll have to do it again. :D

 

Well don't do it until you need to, silly...I was just suggesting you use ply for future sleds, or if you find the solid wood fence on your existing sled moves on you.  No need to fix it if it ain't broken, y'know?

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Well don't do it until you need to, silly...I was just suggesting you use ply for future sleds, or if you find the solid wood fence on your existing sled moves on you.  No need to fix it if it ain't broken, y'know?

 

Quite true :)

 

I guess we'll find out in a few months. When it goes from 90 degrees and 95% humidity to -20 degrees or something stupid.

 

It won't be a huge thing to change out though if I stock up on some plywood, which I really have to do because shop organization is the next thing on my to do list. Jigs, storage, walls, studs, etc.

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