Bocote Box


davewyo

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Eric I think you may be right. Mine is much closer to your picture. A bit lighter but small looking formations. Not large ones.

 

Well that piece is finished so obviously it will be darker than the raw wood.  The ray fleck (it's ray fleck, just like oak...lacewood and leopardwood are in the oak family) will vary board to board depending on how it was cut.  The closer to quartersawn, the larger and more intense the fleck...just like QSWO.

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I have the WS set with pumps and still end up with hockey pucks...little Dixie cup hockey pucks anyway.  Sometimes you just need a little shtickle for this or that but you still have to mix a full squirt of each.  I've probably thrown away as much as I've used.  But whatever...it's one of the many hidden costs in woodworking, and that's how I look at it.  Just like lumber waste.  It's unavoidable and doesn't bother me.

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I have used both WS and System3. For my guitars, I used System3 for pore filling. I can add filler to bulk it up or thin it down with denatured alcohol. System 3 allows mixing by weight. I found the WS pumps left a lot of waste as well. System3 specifies a weight ratio of 100:44. I bought a small scale and mix batches as small as 14.4 grams - 10g of A and 4.4g of B.

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I have used both WS and System3. For my guitars, I used System3 for pore filling. I can add filler to bulk it up or thin it down with denatured alcohol. System 3 allows mixing by weight. I found the WS pumps left a lot of waste as well. System3 specifies a weight ratio of 100:44. I bought a small scale and mix batches as small as 14.4 grams - 10g of A and 4.4g of B.

That's a good idea.

If I go along to using more epoxy, I'll do that.

 

Hey Krafter, just out of curiosity, do you have an update on the Acoustic from the 1960 Wurlitzer?

I was thoroughly enjoying that build.

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You're doing a great job Dave! Its looking good! What kind of wood are you using for the keys?

Thanks Shane!

For continuity I want the box to be just the two species so I'm going to try to get the keys out of some of the scraps of lacewood.

I wish I had taken a slice from the board before I did the resaw and book matched it.

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That's a good idea.

If I go along to using more epoxy, I'll do that.

Hey Krafter, just out of curiosity, do you have an update on the Acoustic from the 1960 Wurlitzer?

I was thoroughly enjoying that build.

Thanks. Yeah, sorry for the temporarily abandoned post. I've had some other projects going and will get back to it this week, in fact. I'll post the reason(s) for my delay.

Back to the box, it's looking great!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Dave, for small projects requiring epoxy, I go to the pharmacy counter at Walgreens and they will give you syringes for measuring out the hardener and resin resulting in less waste.

Those Brusso hinges are the only way to go on a box like this.

Looking good!

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Thanks Coop.

 

I've didn't get too much done today although I was in the shop for an hour or two.

My employer's daughter came in for a visit from Texas a week ago and she brought some Texas Two-Step influenza with her.

I don't know what manner of viruses y'all are growing down there Coop but, as expected from the Lone Star, they're big and bold.

 

I got the keys fitted and numbered so they go in right.

http://IMG_1096_zpszbroufap.jpg

I'm ready for my next gluing session on the lid and keys, but with all the slow and careful deliberation came the feeling like I haven't got a good enough grain match going on the strip of Bocote that is going to be attached to the lid(front and back). With time to reflect, I think I can see where I may make a better match by cutting into the 14" piece of scrap I have left over. Thankfully I didn't glue the lid, so I'll slice up the scrap and see what I can get before I jump right into the next glue-up.

So there's that to be said for going slow (even if it takes the Texas Crud).

 

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I've never thought to number the keys and I guess that I really don't know why I would want to.

I figure that if I cut all of the corner mortises with the same set up and blade that they would all match in width and depth.

As far as the splines (keys) go I just rip a piece of wood the correct thickness and width(even if it takes three tries) and cut the require number of pieces for the mortises and glue in place at will. Then trim the splines as close to the sides as possible and sand to smooth.

Want to explain where I'm going wrong?

Rog

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I don't think you're doing anything wrong.

That's how I would normally do it...rip the correct slice of lumber from a 3/4" thick board.

Due to a lack of foresight, in this case I have just scraps to work with.

Small thin scraps, perhaps 1 1/2" X 6" and less than 1/2" thick.

So I cut them on the bandsaw and fit each by sanding off the saw marks.

They would probably all be interchangeable, but I don't want to have any delay during glue up so I marked them as to place and direction.

 

As an aside, since I was slicing the splines from scraps of a glued up panel the grain direction is less than ideal.

The splines will be mostly decorative and the epoxy is going to have to add the strength (if any is needed).

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