Madkrafter Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 That is looking fantastic Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Coming along nicely Dave. I guess I should have asked earlier in the game; the grooves for the inlay, did you do those on the router table? I used a palm sized router with an edge guide and a 1/8" spiral upcut bit. (It may have been a cleaner cut with a downcut bit.) I put a longer auxiliary fence on the edge guide with double stick tape to make it more stable. Then I made two passes with the router to get the 3/16" width I want. To get it right I made the first pass on the lid and on a piece of scrap. Then I used the scrap to dial in the exact width of the second pass. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 I did the "pull".It's not glued in but it's ready to go.http:// http:// Here it is in place:http:// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Kinda looks like the box is sticking it's tongue out Nice work! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Kinda looks like the box is sticking it's tongue out Nice work!did you have o say that aloud? I didn't see that until you said it, now I can't stopseeng it. great work Dave, keep er going 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 I got the hinges mostly installed today. I have a little tweaking to do to get them fitted precisely, but they are pretty close.http:// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Dave, did you mortise for the hinges with chisel or router? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 I used mostly a router and then chiseled out the corners, very very much like Marc's video episode #123 (that's where I learned it).Thanks Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 I've done both. Using the router really makes the pucker way up there for me, but when done right, it sure makes the depth so much more uniform!Almost ready for the finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Yes, definitely a touchy situation right at the end of the project when you would rather not ding things up.After some router based inlay I feel like I have pretty good control of my palm router.I use my right hand on the normal grip of the router and my left is on the plastic base plate. That helps to remain steady and keeps the base flat on your work surface. Lots of light. Knife lines are traced with a red pencil so as not to over do it. I would rather do more chisel work than get too close to my lines. As you say the router establishes the base line really well.I use double stick tape to put a block of wood inside the box so I have a larger surface to register the router base on.I think I have to credit Marc with most, if not all, of those techniques too. Oh yeah! I'm thinking about the finish (lacquer again). The samples look good.I have a bunch of sanding to do first though. Because of epoxy squeeze out I'm going to have to sand the inside of the box again, which will be a lot of fun I expect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Those look great on there Dave! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wouldwurker Posted August 2, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Kinda looks like the box is sticking it's tongue out Nice work! I think I found the inspiration...:) Looking great Dave! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I think I found the inspiration...:) Looking great Dave!Ha! I've never seen "Cars"...so that can't be it. It is from Cars, right?But now I can't get the tongue image out of my head too.I got the hinges tweaked in and screwed down, made sure the reveal on the lid was good, and then went ahead with some exterior sanding to flush things up all around.http://I'll for-go showing you the sanding process, so check back in after a couple of days when the first coat of finish goes on. I'm looking forward to the "pop". I have one more test finish to try out, to see if BLO and lacquer looks better than just straight lacquer.As an aside...I would really love to see a video dealing with "What do you do when your hinges don't sit right". This hinge installation went well, but I always fear that step of a project because if the hardware doesn't go in right I don't really have a clue as to how to adjust to make things work out. Do I shim one hinge or chisel out the other? Do I creep one hinge a hair forward, or the other one back? Do I leave well enough alone, or try again and risk over doing it? That's my greatest complaint of woodworking TV shows. They always nail it first shot. I need to know what to do when you don't exactly get it dead-on during the first attempt. (rant over) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 There's that pucker factor I spoke of. Down to the last nitty gritty, them Wham. On a 6' door, you drive a tooth pick or scrap of wood and re-drill. With a box this small,it HAS to be right the first time! Glad yours went right the first time! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Force the lid into your desired reveal with rare earth magnets. Besides, come winter, who knows how they'll sit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 There's that pucker factor I spoke of. Down to the last nitty gritty, them Wham. On a 6' door, you drive a tooth pick or scrap of wood and re-drill. With a box this small,it HAS to be right the first time! Glad yours went right the first time!No kidding!And then there are the binky little screws! Not only does my #1 Klein screwdriver not fit as snugly as I would like but my No. 3 Vix bit isn't quite small enough, and I'm pretty sure nobody makes a No. 2. What I've resorted to is using the #3 Vix to drill that portion of the hole where the shank of the screw is solid, and freehand drill the rest of the hole where the screw is threaded. Not that it's necessary but I didn't have any screws shear off this time around.You want to talk about tooth-pickery! On the last box I drilled the holes very nicely for the steel screw which comes with a Brusso hinge, and when I went to put in the brass screws they dropped into the holes without the slightest resistance. I am convinced an off-sized screw was provided, but I have to admit I'm perplexed and it could have been me. Although it may seem to be a little too anal-retentive, I now test my screws (and their exact compatibility with the steel screw) in some scrap before I drill my pilot holes. Force the lid into your desired reveal with rare earth magnets. Besides, come winter, who knows how they'll sit.I hear that! This box is going from Wyoming where my moisture meter doesn't register because the low value is 5% to Rhode Island where toadstools grow in your underpants if you're not careful.In this instance, the reveal needs to be large enough between the lid and the base of the box or after I put on 10 coats of lacquer it will bind. The last box I had to sand the lacquer with high grit to get the lid to close. This time I hope the space is adequate yet not gappy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 In the case of small hinges on boxes, the "toothpick" method works well here also. I've been known to re-drill the holes oversize and use a piece of dowel (or skewer) to fill in and re-drill the hinge holes In the proper location. (Who will ever know?)I generally use painters tape to hold the hinges in place and drill the holes with a self centering hinge bit but, you still have to be careful. I also drill one hole and put a steel screw (of the proper size) in it to help keep the other hole or two in the proper location and do each one as I go. Then replace the steel screws with the brass ones using a lubricant, paste wax or soap. I've been having "better" luck doing it this way. Rog 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 That's a great idea Rog. It's probably stronger and you get a cleaner hole than stuffing a toothpick in and drilling it back out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Looks awesome, I do love the "tongue" pull. Great work so far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 (edited) Thanks All!I started into the finishing tonight.Sanded:http://Bottom: http://Top: http://http://That's a couple/few base coats of Cabot gloss lacquer in the rattle can. Tomorrow I'll start sanding between coats with 320/400 grit and work my way to 800 or 1000 until I get a nice smooth coat without too many blemishes. Then I'll hit it with a last coat of semi-gloss or satin. Edited August 5, 2015 by davewyo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Oh man Dave that looks amazing!! What will you be using this box for? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Awesome! That's the view I was waiting for! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 (edited) Oh man Dave that looks amazing!! What will you be using this box for?Thanks Shane!It's for my brother's wedding in October. Awesome! That's the view I was waiting for!Yeah, me too...No questions asked, that was what I was wondering about.The seam in the bookmatch of the lid is prominent but not so much as to be distracting. I'm very, very pleased. Edited August 5, 2015 by davewyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Yeah, me too...No question's asked, that was what I was wondering about.The seam in the bookmatch of the lid is prominent but not so much as to be distracting. I'm very, very pleased.As you should be! That really popped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 I've experienced an unexpected finishing difficulty.The Bocote wood has a lot of pigment in it. Whenever I wipe it with lacquer thinner to glue up the joints I get a vivid yellow stain on the rag. While gluing the Lacewood to the Bocote I have had to be very cautious to not get too much squeeze out on the Lacewood or lacquer thinner on the junction of the two woods, or I would get some cross-over staining.So...When I recently (over)sprayed the interior of the box I got some staining of the lacquer which looks like this:http://While it isn't great, I don't see that I could do anything to make it better.Let me know if you have any suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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