Sander to remove nick from chisel


Woodenskye

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http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/600/850180.jpg

Is it possible to use this sander to remove a nick from a chisel and then grind the bevel? I would prefer not to buy a grinder for 1 chisel blade or possibly creating a camber on a cheap plane iron. If a grinder is the only way to do this, do you prefer variable speed or just a single speed grinder?

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The disk will do it, possibly the belt if the support is strong and your hand steady enough.  If you have the sander already, give it a go.  If I had to guess though you will get some rounding that will be a huge PIA to get a bevel on.

 

I just had a look on Craigslist and there are more than a few grinders for < $50.  That would be my suggestion (take it for what it's worth from someone new here,)

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Got a honing guide?  If you do, sandpaper on the top of the TS,or a piece of granite or glass.. Why spend $100 plus, just to sharpen one chisel.. Grind the nick out with sandpaper, and hone it with your regular stones!

I already own this sander and I do have a honing guide. I don't really have a use for a grinder which I don't have room or desire to buy. I do most of my sharpening on waterstones and I do have glass plate.

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The disk will do it, possibly the belt if the support is strong and your hand steady enough.  If you have the sander already, give it a go.  If I had to guess though you will get some rounding that will be a huge PIA to get a bevel on.

 

I just had a look on Craigslist and there are more than a few grinders for < $50.  That would be my suggestion (take it for what it's worth from someone new here,)

The position on the belt can be horizontal or vertical. If it works, being able to camber a blade wouldn't be the worst thing.

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I built a couple of jigs for stationary belt sanders some years back. The first one ended up in Fine Woodworking Magazine ..

 

BeltSanderGrinderMkI_html_m661c553.jpg

 

This used a machine very similar to the one you have.

 

Then I acquired a more powerful sander, and built a better jig (nothing wrong with the Mk 1 but Mk 2 was the natural evolution) ...

 

BeltSanderBladeGrinderMK%20II_html_m1453

 

There are articles on both on my (non-commercial) website. Of course, I am not meant to mention that. Silly me :)

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

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do watch the heat! Dip in water often.

 

Also, check the flatness of the platten (or surface beneath the belt). Second, perhaps test this on a piece of less valuable tool steel to see the result first. 

 

The Cerax 320 and Sigma 400 cut bevels fairly quickly, so a good ceramic low grit stone is also an option; plus, you can flatten chisel backs with waterstones. Of these two, the Sigma is more brutal, faster, and a beast to flatten once dished. The Cerax is none of that. These a somewhat better than a King Deluxe 300 (which has not gone out of flat for me yet) in terms of speed; but the King really works well. All three of these are tons better than a Chosera 400; but I've not been to test/compare these to a Gesshin 400 or similar other low grit stones. (Yes, I have compared to the Shapton Pro [either the 220 or 320, but I don't remember], which fares about like the Cho 400. Not so well.)

 

 

Diamond stones work, too, just not as fast. 

Glass or other substrate with sandpaper works.

Grinders work

Tormek works

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Please do not be tempted to flatten the backs of blades on waterstones. They are not reliable enough to remain flat, and the moment that go out of flat you will have to redo all you have done. These stones are fine for removing nicks from bevels, but that is all. Stick with sandpaper or diamond paste/stones for backs of blades.

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

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Please do not be tempted to flatten the backs of blades on waterstones. They are not reliable enough to remain flat, and the moment that go out of flat you will have to redo all you have done.

 

 

First, I openly acknowledge that you are one of the masters in this field, and that I am not (but I am experienced in all modes but diamond paste).

 

Have you not stated something that is contrary to the prevailing current?

 

For some stones, i.e., the Suehiro Rika 5000, what you say is immediately true. This superb stone for honing and polishing dishes quite fast. But other stones do hold up well, for quite a while, without dishing--especially when flattening backs (before introducing tracks via sharpening bevels). I've had great experience with Sigma Power stones (not Select IIs), Chosera stones, Gesshins, and the Bestor 1200. And, to counter stones going out of flat, I use my iWood or Atoma diamond stones to check/correct for flatness as often as is needed. 

 

Thank you for the challenging post. I look forward to your reply because you do such a great job in teaching us to be better at ww.

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First, I openly acknowledge that you are one of the masters in this field, and that I am not (but I am experienced in all modes but diamond paste).

 

Have you not stated something that is contrary to the prevailing current?

 

For some stones, i.e., the Suehiro Rika 5000, what you say is immediately true. This superb stone for honing and polishing dishes quite fast. But other stones do hold up well, for quite a while, without dishing--especially when flattening backs (before introducing tracks via sharpening bevels). I've had great experience with Sigma Power stones (not Select IIs), Chosera stones, Gesshins, and the Bestor 1200. And, to counter stones going out of flat, I use my iWood or Atoma diamond stones to check/correct for flatness as often as is needed. 

 

Thank you for the challenging post. I look forward to your reply because you do such a great job in teaching us to be better at ww.

 

Hi Archie

 

Look at it this way ...

 

If you want to flatten the back of a blade, you really need to use a coarse grit to start the process. No mucking about - otherwise you will be at it forever. We are talking 120 grit or there abouts. If you used 400 grit on a steel blade, it will take a long, long time to flatten. If the 400 grit was a waterstone, it would have dished - even begun to dish - long before you were done. Yes, you can keep it flat with frequent dressing, but this is inefficient. The moment that the stone dishes, it will dub the edge of the blade, and then you will need to start over.

 

I have used ceramic stones for many years, and they also wear - not as quickly as other types, but wear nevertheless. Damage is done by the low grit stones (not the high grit stones), and these are also the softer stones that wear fastest. It is one thing using them on a bevel. It is quite another using them on the blade back. You can hone a blade freehand on a banana-shaped stone. However you cannot lap the back on one.

 

To get a blade back flat I use sandpaper or diamond stones or paste. I do not go to waterstones until the Shapton 1000. Once I have a polished blade back, I never use less than a Spyderco Ultra Fine or Sigma 13000, and that is simply to remove the wire edge.  

 

Regards from Perth

 

Derek

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As merely a preference, I've decided to go with the Sigmas and Choseras, though I like the Shapton Pros well enough, too. The Shapton Pro 220 wore down a good bit faster than my Cerax 320 or the Sigma 400 or King Deluxe 300 (quite a good but slower stone). These latter three are as serviceable to me as is sandpaper. I've got the 1/10,000th flat stone and thicker plate glass (and a good bit of sandpaper) but just don't like it as well. Again, that's a preference thing. Unfortunately, I don't produce the quality pieces that you do, so I thoroughly recommend that the new comers take their lead from you and other leaders like you. 

 

Learning to sharpen was a difficult (and expensive) road for me. I tried too many different paths. But, in the end, stones (both oil and water) became the medium that I most enjoy. Since I do ww for recreation and hobby builds, I'm not focused on efficiency--unless constrained by some deadline. 

 

Thanks for your response, and wisdom.

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How big of a nick do you have? I had nicked one of my LN chisels when trying to carefully clean something up and I hit a metal rail putting a nick in the edge. I put the chisel in my MKII and went to work on the extra coarse DMT diamond stone for the fastest stock removal I have without using a grinder. took about 5 or 6 minutes, then I progressed through the shapton stones to hone the edge. 10-15 minutes of work and it was gone.

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Tom, it has a couple small nicks and one corner is chipped off. I don't think I would have a problem using my diamond stone, except for the corner. Plus as I mentioned in the chat room the other day, if I want to take a regular chisel and make a skew chisel, could this do the work instead of buying a grinder.

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Tom, it has a couple small nicks and one corner is chipped off. I don't think I would have a problem using my diamond stone, except for the corner. Plus as I mentioned in the chat room the other day, if I want to take a regular chisel and make a skew chisel, could this do the work instead of buying a grinder.

 

Ah so that's the chisel you want to make into the skew. For the skew, I'd honestly cut that material off with an angle grinder and cut off disc before grinding away an endless amount of material. (depending on your angle of course)

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