Coop Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 In the Feb., 2013 issue of FWW, they do a comparison of theses two planes. For the shoulder plane, the Veritas Large came out best overall and value. On the rabbet block plane, the Veritas 601/2 was best value with the Veritas skew block plane as best overall. The article also said if you were to have just one, for cleaning up tenons, go with the rabbet. Do you guys agree?I have done only a few tenons but would like to do more. I currently use a Veritas router plane for this chore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Well who am I to disagree with FWW...but I kind of disagree. I think the shoulder plane will do better on cheeks than the rabbet will do on shoulders. If I had to get only one I'd go large shoulder plane.The thing is though, if you're cutting tenons by hand, you should really do yourself a favor and get both. And if you're cutting your tenons on the table saw and you just want a tool to finesse the fit, a rabbet will be better for that.My shoulder plane doesn't see much use. I use my rabbet block to fit tenons every time I make tenons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 As I don't have a tenoning jig for the ts, I currently use the ts to cut the shoulders and the bs to cut the cheeks. Eric, if you use your rabbet block every time to make tenons, why do you suggest the shoulder plane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 As I don't have a tenoning jig for the ts, I currently use the ts to cut the shoulders and the bs to cut the cheeks. Eric, if you use your rabbet block every time to make tenons, why do you suggest the shoulder plane?Build one! Super simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 As I don't have a tenoning jig for the ts, I currently use the ts to cut the shoulders and the bs to cut the cheeks. Eric, if you use your rabbet block every time to make tenons, why do you suggest the shoulder plane?If you were to only have one and you needed to work both cheeks and shoulders...because like I said, the shoulder plane will do a better job on the cheeks than the rabbet plane will do on the shoulders. If you're just wanting a plane to finesse cheeks after the table saw, then it's not tough call...that's rabbet plane work.What was FWW's justification for getting the rabbet? Are they assuming you're machine cutting your tenons or hand cutting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 They did not mention the method of cutting. I assume they thought everyone had a tenoning jig and didn't take people like me into consideration. They did say that the rabbet "was well suited to trimming the the cheeks but not as easy to use on it's side as a shoulder plane". To me, the rabbet just seems more versitle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Like always...it depends. What are you wanting it for, specifically? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Kev, are you talking about the ones that fit over the fence? Like always...it depends. What are you wanting it for, specifically?You're right. The shoulder usually comes out ok, just need to finesse the cheek! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I have both types (in different widths ) and it's true that a shoulder plane can be used to finesse a cheek. It's actual intended use is for finessing shoulders hence its name. Cutting the cheeks with a tenoning jig is great and if the tenon is only about 1" - 1.1/4" long a shoulder plane can be used to finesse the cheek without much risk of changing the shape of the tenon. Any longer and a rabbet plane comes into its own on cheeks. I wouldn't however use the rabbet plane to tune the shoulders of a tenon though. Balancing the wide rabbet plane on the shoulder to do the task can be done but you risk not being able to keep the plane square to the face of the component. The picture below explains what I mean looking edge on to a tenon.If I were to buy one plane and was tuning many tenons shortish cheeks and shoulders it would be a wide (1") shoulder plane. If on the other hand as you say Ken you want to finesse tenon cheeks only then get a rabbeting block plane as it is so versatile in other areas too - you can use it as a you would a regular block plane. I appreciate that premium planes cost $$$ and buying both types at once could be an issue but if funds dictate try both types for maximum flexibility. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 (edited) I have several shoulder planes acquired over the years, as well as the rabbet plane. The shoulder plane that gets most use is the 1/2" Veritas Small Shoulder Plane. The Rabbet Plane hardly if ever is used.If a shoulder is a little out of square, I score a line, first attempting to slice the waste off this way. If it cannot all be done, at least I have created a knife wall, and the remainder is removed with a chisel. The shoulder plane only comes into play if their is a smidgeon to remove that is too difficult to register a knife or chisel along. The 1/2" chisel offers the best visibility and control - rarely do I have a shoulder wider than 1/4" to shave.Cheeks that are out-of-square respond best to a router plane. A rasp is all that is needed for fine tweaking. A rabbet plane can be too coarse and get you into trouble.Shoulder planes have many uses, and are possibly used more for tweaking joints (such as mitres) and, especially, rebates than just shoulders.Regards from PerthDerek Edited August 11, 2015 by derekcohen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Yeah I think it really depends how you're cutting your tenons. I machine cut mine and like Eric said I can't remember the last time I used my shoulder plane, but I use my rabbet block plane all the time. Probably my most used non-power tool. Very nice for sneaking up on the fit of a tenon. But because I'm machine cutting, my shoulders usually need no work at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I'd opt for the shoulder plane. I'd not be too bothered trying to refine cheeks with it, personally it's not designed for it and it's a touch clumsy when used like that. If I had to refine a cheek a sharp chisel would do it.Another option that was not likely in the article is to put some time aside to practice a little to limit the use of these planes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Another option that was not likely in the article is to put some time aside to practice a little to limit the use of these planes.Probably a darn good idea ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 When I did the rails for my Roubo I used my shoulder plane to size the cheeks to fit perfectly. I would give a pass butted up against the shoulder, and then use my block plane adjacent to where the shoulder stopped to make the other side even. I had no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I've never had a rabbetting block plane, but have had a couple of different sizes of Record shoulder planes for something over 3 decades. Somehow, I've managed without ever having a RBP. The nickel plating on the large shoulder plane has been desolved by sweat long ago. I'm not saying I wouldn't like to have a RBP, but never bad enough to pay for one.I cut tenon shoulders to finish on a fine tuned RAS, unless it's a project that absolutely demands everything be cut by hand. Tenons mainly get tuned with a paring chisel of fine cutting files. Here's a picture of the 073-the one that the LN large is modeled after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I just took delivery of my first rabbeting block plane. I managed early on in my hobby to find a carriage maker's plane. It rabbets but is a standard bevel down. At the size of a number 4, and possessing a chipbreaker I have not felt hampered. Good luck finding a cheap carriage maker's. I have not seen another for the price I paid that did not have a cracked casting. I think this is more an encouragement to not be bound by a box. Many block planes will leave very little unplaned in the corner that could be easily pared (and even undercut) first with a chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Where does the Veritas bullnose plane fall into this discussion? I've been thinking of buying one. I like that it can second as a chisel, but I also need something better than the cheapo wooden body shoulder plane I have. Anyone own this plane and care to comment on it's performance? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.