daviddoria Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Since I don't have a jointer, I do the (tedious) thing where I hot glue the workpiece to a sled with little shims underneath to fill the voids and "joint" (with a thickness planer) one surface. This works great for boards that are reasonably not flat - I just cut little 3 degree wedges off the end of a 1"x1" scrap piece to make the shims. The edge of those shims seems to be about 1/32". This means for boards that are *almost* flat, but just rock a little bit, the shims don't fit under the gaps. I've tried business cards and little folded pieces of paper, but those seem to compress a little bit when the feed roller presses down on them, defeating the purpose. I've heard the suggestion of playing cards (which I haven't tried yet), but I was wondering if there was a way to get a sharper point on these little shims? Or any other suggestions for something already around the shop that might work for this?Thanks!David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 You can cut the sides of aluminum cans for thin shims. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strasberry Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Use a combo sander, cut the shims a little long so you can hold on to them and sand down to what you want, cut to length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 I know it sounds crazy... but you could buy some actual shims.If not, you could buy a few sets of feeler gauges and use those...If not, you could make some sort of sled that has screws coming up through the bottom. Obviously have the bottom of this sled thicker than the screws so you have room to draw them back...If not, you can buy a jointer.If not, you can get a hand plane off ebay for not much money and learn to joint a board that way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 I know it sounds crazy... but you could buy some actual shims.If not, you could buy a few sets of feeler gauges and use those...If not, you could make some sort of sled that has screws coming up through the bottom. Obviously have the bottom of this sled thicker than the screws so you have room to draw them back...If not, you can buy a jointer.If not, you can get a hand plane off ebay for not much money and learn to joint a board that way.If not, you can call Mel to come do it for you =) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 If not, you can call Mel to come do it for you =)If not, you can glue some dog hair together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daviddoria Posted August 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Thanks guys - I'm going to try the aluminum cans.Mel Morris - Do "actual shims" have a more technical name? I didn't see anything like what I was imagining after searching Rockler and Amazon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Thanks guys - I'm going to try the aluminum cans.Mel Morris - Do "actual shims" have a more technical name? I didn't see anything like what I was imagining after searching Rockler and Amazon.Search for shim stock. Amazon has them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 One of my dogs does not have an undercoat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 It will be in sheet format most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) 1/64th is pretty slim.How about using a piece of peal and stick edge banding or a sheet of veneer? Edited August 13, 2015 by davewyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 http://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-stock/=ygwug4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 http://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-stock/=ygwug4Hmmm...the selection in that link is somewhat limited. Don't they have any molybdenum shims? Jes kidding; thanks for another great resource Trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 1/64 is .015 I forget what a pop can is, but it is thinner than the .019 coil stock I used to form. The screwhead idea was great also. I would have to do this fairly often to pay money for shims. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 I know it sounds crazy... but you could buy some actual shims. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Standard grade plastic laminate sheets (Formica) are a little under 1/16 thick. Post forming grade is a bit thinner,it's the stuff they use for those rounded edge counters. Vertical grade is even thinner , it might be close to a 64th. I just don't have my calipers handy right now.They give away samples at most big box stores. Any cabinet shop might give you scraps especially if the color or pattern is ugly or out of use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stobes21 Posted August 23, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 I keep a deck of playing cards around for shims and find them very useful. Cheap, easily available, and glue doesn't stick to them. But for what you're doing why don't you try hot gluing the board to your sled? The glue will match the exact thickness you need, dries nice and hard, and will make sure the board doesn't rock. After you're done it'll pop right off with a scraper. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Harvey Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 You could make a thin strip jig for the table saw. It locks in the miter slot and then is adusted so the nose is 1/16 or whatever you need distance from the blade. Put stock against the fence and move fence until stock contacts the stop. Then just rip off a consistant strip. Mine has a couple of skate bearings at the nose so stock moves easier. I also use it as a featherboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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