Chisel Rack - completed

[rodger.]

Well, I'm getting bored awaiting my new jointer, so i thought it was time i dusted off the jointer plane and did a project,  I decided to make a simple chisel rack, as I am tired of digging out the box of chisels every time I need to make a quick touch up.

I did some looking, and decided to make a version similar to this one from FWW.  Mine will not be mounted in a cabinet, but still will serve the same function. Here is the inspiration photo, and the measurements provided by the fine folks at FWW.  Not exactly what I need, but a good place to start.

 

 

 

 

So I grabbed a stick of soft maple that I had in the shop, and picked a nice section from it (relatively straight grained).  Then I cut cut of what I needed on my saw bench, using a hard-point saw (a-la Graham).

Then I flattened one face by hand, and jointed one edge.  I used my shop made winding sticks to make sure all was well before heading to the power planer to dimension, and then the TS to rip the final edge.

 

Edited August 15, 2015 by franklin pug

[Eric.]

I'm close to making one of these, too.  I considered something like the one you're making but I can't settle on a design.  I think I'm gonna have to make custom holes for each of my chisels so that they all rest perfectly and satisfy my OCD.  There doesn't seem to be a one size fits all solution that doesn't look like a mess when it's done.

Following with interest...

[rodger.]

Then I laid out the points for the drill press.  Each hole is 3/4" in diameter (using a forstner bit).  I laid out each hole as in the diagram above, and then marked each with an awl so the drill press would "find" the center of the hole.  I drilled about 3/4 of the way through, and finished the hole on the other side to avoid blowing out any material.

 

After the holes were drilled, I laid out the table saw kerf cuts.  I simply used the center line, and measured 1/4" from each side of it using a steel rule.

Then off to the Table saw (with miter gauge) to make the "keyhole" shape to allow the chisels to be removed and placed in.

This is the result.

Then I did dome smoothing, sanding, and cleaned up the end grain with a block plane.  I put a slight chamfer on the holes and edges, and then drilled some countersunk mounting holes as per the plan.

 

[rodger.]

I have the first coat of Wipe-On-Poly drying, so another two coats and should be good to hang up and put in use.  I'll update tomorrow (or the next day) when the finish is dry and post some pics.

[Bill Tarbell]

Nice work.  I love how symmetrical and aligned everything is   

I wonder.. in the FWW pic it looks like the chisels are resting in the holes via friction on the handle rather than on the socket.  It seems like that may cause a potential issue of the socket coming loose from the handle and plummeting to the floor (or to your foot!).  At least something to consider before you start hanging your chisels up.

[rodger.]

I'm close to making one of these, too.  I considered something like the one you're making but I can't settle on a design.  I think I'm gonna have to make custom holes for each of my chisels so that they all rest perfectly and satisfy my OCD.  There doesn't seem to be a one size fits all solution that doesn't look like a mess when it's done.

Following with interest...

The diameter holes I used fit all of my chisels, as they are a matched set.  The hole that receives the chisel allows the tool to rest on the shaft.  So all the chisels should fit neatly, as per the inspiration picture.  I think I will avoid putting the 10 degree bevel on the back - if I think the chisels are prone to accidentally fall out ill cut that angle later.  I think Ill be okay, as the rack will not be mounted on a swinging door.

Edited August 14, 2015 by franklin pug

[..Kev]

Nice attention to detail!  Looks great!

[rodger.]

Nice work.  I love how symmetrical and aligned everything is   

I wonder.. in the FWW pic it looks like the chisels are resting in the holes via friction on the handle rather than on the socket.  It seems like that may cause a potential issue of the socket coming loose from the handle and plummeting to the floor (or to your foot!).  At least something to consider before you start hanging your chisels up.

Yes, this is a valid point.  I may find that the chisels fit too loosely, and may need to use this rack as a prototype for a "chiselrack2.0".

Nice attention to detail!  Looks great!

Thanks - I always appreciate your positive comments!

[shaneymack]

Looking good pug!

[xxdabroxx]

It would look nice with a long bevel on the bottom side that faces out.  Take a little of the bulk off.  Probably would have been easier before cutting out the slots though. 

[rodger.]

It would look nice with a long bevel on the bottom side that faces out.  Take a little of the bulk off.  Probably would have been easier before cutting out the slots though. 

Good Suggestion

[Woodenskye]

Great project Pug. 

[Rapid Roger]

This is my chisel rack that I made in 2011. Can sit on a shelf or be hung on a door or wall.

 

 

Rog

[rodger.]

Here is the chisel rack with two coats of finish and installed.

The chisels are sitting well, but they shift some when placing them in and removing them,  They won't fall out, but they are too "tippy" for my liking.  In the next version, I am going to drill a larger hole for the chisels to sit in.  Then the wedge shape of the chisel handle (black part in my case - is this called the tang?) will naturally wedge itself in the hole for a more secure hold.

[..Kev]

Looks awesome!  Kudos for tossing out its shortcomings for others to improve upon.

[Bill Tarbell]

[snip]

The chisels are sitting well, but they shift some when placing them in and removing them,  They won't fall out, but they are too "tippy" for my liking.  In the next version, I am going to drill a larger hole for the chisels to sit in.  Then the wedge shape of the chisel handle (black part in my case - is this called the tang?) will naturally wedge itself in the hole for a more secure hold.

Do you have forstner bits?  You could probably fix the tippiness of the current build by just using the forstner to go down by 1/4" on each hole.  If you make it close to the same size as the base of the plastic handle then they should just sit rather snug into the widened part of the hole but not fall all the way through. There's an image below to show the general idea.

It'll be a bit of a pain to center the forstner bit, but if you're just planning on throwing this initial build away then it's certainly worth a shot.  You could also do it with a standard brad point bit.. the base of the hole just wont look quite as clean.