Greg Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 I'm new to the woodworking community and I have just a few projects under my belt. I have the Dayton 10" hybrid saw that Grainger sells. Since I have owned it, now about 4 months, and I have calibrated it three separate times and I am still having a problem. The problem is the blade cuts a small bevel on the last 1/2" or so of any cut against the fence. The blade is aligned within .003" to the miter slots and the fence is a angled away from the blade at the back by a few thousandths. I never actually used the stock blade since it was terrible. I am using an Irwin 50 tooth "Marples" blade. The blade is as close to 90* to the table as I can discern. Any recommendations? It's not keeping me from completing projects but it bugs me that a new saw won't cut a perfectly straight line. This is the current project I'm working on. Will have doors hopefully tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 (edited) He said a bevel Edited August 20, 2015 by mat60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Sounds like the back half of the has some kind of runout on it cause the wood to rotate (creating the bevel) when most of the work on on that part of the table. I'd check the flatness of the top front to back and diagonally. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 No. I do not think the fence is bent. I have the fence farther away from the blade on the outfeed intentionally per all of the table saw setup instructions I have found. It's just a few thousandths. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 I can hear the blade drag as the end of the board passes the back edge of the blade. I will try and check the table for runout. That's a good idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteJr Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Here's something that you may find useful.http://www.newwoodworker.com/dilindjiguse.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 That seems to be a very good resource. I am going to have to try some of those tests. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Can you post a close up picture of the bevel produced? Also show us a picture of the fence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krtwood Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 It looks like the Dayton may be the same saw as the Ridgid sold at Home Depot. I've heard of these saws having a problem where the blade changes its alignment as it is raised and lowered. So you align the blade at max height, and then with it lowered for a cut it's now off. You could check that by making a cut at the same blade height you calibrated it at and see if there is any difference. If you are getting a resonating zing sound from the blade at the end of the cut that's from the blade being deflected in the cut and then as the cut finishes it snaps back into shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 That sounds like the problem I'm having. Do you know if there is a fix for it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 maybe you could align the blade at the height you will cut at to minimize the disturbance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I spoke with an engineer at the company who sells the saws to Grainger and he walked me through a few adjustments I can make. I did what he recommended and then re-calibrated the blade to the miter slot with the blade just below the upper stop. I got the blade within .002" and then put it back together and tested a cut with the blade adjusted to cut 3/4" stock. The problem seemed much worse than before so I checked the alignment of the blade and it was out .023" from from to back of the blade even with so little blade above the table. So now I decided to use weithman5's suggestion to align the blade at the height I will most often be using it. After that it's working pretty well. I think it's a situation where my expectations must be unrealistic. It's an relatively inexpensive Chinese made saw. Grainger has offered a new saw but I'm skeptical about getting one that has the same problem and it's a bit of hassle to get a 315lbs saw out of my basement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) The issue with the Ridgid, and several other models that use the same mechanism is that the alignment shifts when the blade height is changed. as described by krtwood. Some are fortunate to have it come back into alignment if the height handwheel is rotated in the opposite direction by a fraction of a turn, but most do not. Ridgid was supposedly offering an updated trunnion mechanism that's suppose to fix it. Otherwise there's really no permanent cure if your saw has that issue. The good news is that not all saws did. I'd consider swapping the saw for another, or swapping out the critical parts if they offer them. If you swap saws, spend some time with the Grainger folks and check the new one before dragging it home.IMHO, this saw (or at least the faulty mechanism) really should have been recalled. It creates a very dangerous situation for kickback if the back of the blade shifts toward the fence. Good luck! Edited August 22, 2015 by knotscott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I may get it replaced and just sell the new saw. Does anyone have experience with the Delta saws from Lowes? There is one with steel wings and one with cast iron wings. I am partial to the cast iron wings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 I tried the trick where you rotate the hand wheel back a quarter turn and it definitely helps. I can see the blade move back into alignment. I'm still going to get the saw replaced but at least it will be functional in the mean time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 The Delta saw has a pretty good track record so far. The fence is really good, except for the two piece front rail. Steel wings are par for the course at this price, but cast iron wings can be added later on. For a new saw < $600, it'd be at the top of the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 I haven't seen any comments so far about blade alignment issues with the Delta 36-725 and I have been using a two-piece rail so far without issue. It's definitely a contender. I'm also looking at the Grizzly G0771 but there is very little information about it from current users. It has a fence more on par with the Ridgid saw but a much nicer cabinet design. I do need my saw to be mobile and the Grizzly would require an additional purchase to make it mobile. I'm trying to be more thorough this time so I don't end up with a saw that I have to return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 It appears that the Delta 36-725 is no longer available and has been replaced with the 36-5000 which is several hundred dollars more. Looks like the Grizzly G0771 is getting more likely by the day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 Lowes shows it as in stock online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 It must be a regional supply issue then. I can search for "Delta 36-725" on their website or app and I only get two throat plate inserts. When I searched on google I was able to find a product page on Lowes website but there were none in stock in the Atlanta area and it did not give me an option to order one for store pickup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 It could also be that it has been discontinued and that there are still ones in stock in my region. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 I spoke with a guy at Lowes locally and they can't order it for me. He referred me to Delta. When I changed my location to Boston, MA they were in stock at the local stores. I just picked Boston randomly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 I was finally able to find a Delta 36-725 at a Lowes about an hour away. I had some help from a guy at my local Lowes to get the saw transferred. I picked it up on Saturday and unpacked everything. I started assembling the saw and I got to a point where I wanted to consult the manual but I could not find one. Then the side panels for the legs were missing. I'm also missing the fence lock handle and the anti-kickback pawls. The saw cuts fine but I had to use one of the handles for a hand wheel for the fence. I'm really impressed with how quiet the saw it. I will see how impressed I am with Delta customer service getting all of the missing parts... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 You're taking that bad news better than I would have! Congrats on the new saw....I'm sure it'll all work out fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Unfortunately I'm used to it. The Dayton saw I'm replacing didn't have the dado insert or the hardware to attach the fence rails. At his point I have the saw working and it's much better than what I have been working with for the last six months. Just made a couple of zero clearance inserts last night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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