Live Edge Maple Entry Table Completed


rodger.

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Came across a unique board the other day, and had to do something with it.  I decided that I would make an entry table for a friend of mine who is always lending me her big truck for one thing or another.  I decided I would make an entry table for her.

I will pass over most of the milling details, as I did the same procedure in my recent coffee table journal (still in progress, but in the finish stage).  One issue I did have was leveling the slab top - I didn't notice the massive amount of twist in it, and I have been flattening it by hand.  The leveling took a few hours, and I produced a TONNE of shavings!  I am still without a jointer, so all initial leveling and squaring was done with my jack plane and jointer plane.

In the end I got almost all the twist out, and when I fasten it to the base the little amount that is left should go away.  I may go back at it a for one more round of leveling, after I let it sit a few days.

The design is a bit different than my usual 1.5" square leg style.  I decided to use 1" thick legs, about 2" wide with a taper.  Here is a quick sketch up without the top.

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The amount of shaving was pretty nuts.  I filled this bin three or for times

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Here is pic of the leg stock rough milled and over sized, as well as the slab top near its final dimensions.  The small sections will be short aprons and table top cleats eventually.1_stickered_(1).thumb.jpg.1c1b64ec67c6d1

Edited by franklin pug
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Pug, in your sketch it appears your aprons will be 4/4.  That's a fairly thick slab and I suspect the base won't be strong enough to pull any twist out.  On the contrary, the slab will probably transfer the twist into the base.  I'd address that before you move on...get that sucker flat. :)

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Pug, in your sketch it appears your aprons will be 4/4.  That's a fairly thick slab and I suspect the base won't be strong enough to pull any twist out.  On the contrary, the slab will probably transfer the twist into the base.  I'd address that before you move on...get that sucker flat. :)

yes, this is probably true.  There is only a slight twist left, so I thought i would clamp it to the base and hope for the best.  If it bends the base, then back to the hand planes!

The slab is thinner than it looks, will be just about 3/4 when done.

Maybe it goes without saying, but you only need to make the top face flat.   Not a big deal if the bottom is not parallel.  

i like go get it parallell if I have enough "meat", bit shouldn't be too much of an issue here.

Edited by franklin pug
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  • 2 weeks later...

I made a jig to cut the tapered legs from some plywood and clamps.  Ran the legs through the TS and then cleaned them up with a handplane and some sandpaper.

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Joinery is dominoes - 10mm by 50mm (one for each joint).  The aprons are only 2" wide, so this size is plenty.

Then a dry fit and glue up.  I glued the short aprons first, waited 3 hours, and then unclamped and glued up the long aprons.4_base_glued_up.thumb.jpg.5dc507b2a27b29

Finish is 3 coats (base) and 4 coats (top) of General HP poly, applied with HVLP.  I sanded back between coats to get rid of dust nibs, and I will rub out in 2 weeks or so when the finish has had more time to cure.

Then i made some cleats to hold the top on in the same fashion as the coffee table build.  Then i placed the slab on top, and screwed it down.  Viola!  All done!

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When I attached the top, Eric was right - the top transferred the small amount of warp left in the slab to the legs.  Its very small, but enough for a slight wobble.  I'll put some furniture pads underneath to level it out when its done curing.

Overall, this was a good build, but flattening the slab top by hand took a LOAD of work.  Like the cherry table build, I got a good workout and lots of use out of my handplanes, winding sticks, and sharpening gear.

Hope you enjoyed!

-Pug

Edited by franklin pug
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