small free-standing cabinet


davewyo

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I have this "piece" in my bathroom.

http://IMG_1145_zpswulsells.jpg

I got it a number of years ago. A friend gave it to me after his wife painted it purple and left it outside for a winter to make it rustic. It had heart shaped cut outs in the doors but shortly after acquiring the, um, furniture I guess you could call it, I made some new ones and stained them with artist's acrylics to match the existing color.

Against all instincts, I decided to replicate the cabinet without getting down the rabbit hole improving the thing. It fits just right in its place so I wanted to retain the original dimensions. One of my cats uses it to "spa" each morning while the shower steams up the environment. I made it deeper from front to back to allow more space in the drawers (and more spa space), but otherwise the plan was the same...

http://IMG_1141_zps0qzpvt2f.jpg

A few months ago I made the drawers.

http://IMG_1143_zps8lrusn5r.jpg

I understand that the carcass is usually made before the drawers, but I had just got a jig and wanted to know if I could actually make some drawers.

BTW; Eric was right again. In the chat room he told me that a Leigh jig could cause "mind melt" each time it is used, and I have to agree with him.

 

So a week ago I started on the carcass with wood selection:

http://IMG_1132_zpsb5vwy9fn.jpg

I glued up a bunch of panels:

 

 

http://IMG_1135_zpsuzfyuyq2.jpg

And got this:

http://IMG_1137_zpsa4uaazp7.jpg

Edited by davewyo
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After a test joint:

http://IMG_1147_zpsslpnj9gl.jpg

I "ganged" the two side pieces together with the panels still wide and routed the sliding dovetails using a spacer along my edge guide to get the width I wanted.

http://IMG_1150_zpsnxkooj71.jpg

 

That came out okay:

http://IMG_1151_zpsytmdpvo8.jpg

I then ripped the panels to size and cut a dado for the back panel:

http://IMG_1152_zpshebcbbki.jpg

Then I cut the stopped sliding dove tails, which I should have done before the dado for the back panel was cut:

http://IMG_1154_zpso8oolgn5.jpg

Then I ran the shelves across the router table:

http://IMG_1155_zpsiqngdabo.jpg

I put it all together and here is where I am now:

http://IMG_1161_zpshe9kwh0c.jpg

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BTW; Eric was right again. In the chat room he told me that a Leigh jig could cause "mind melt" each time it is used, and I have to agree with him.

 

I said that about the Incra but I'm sure the same is true for the Leigh.  All DT jigs have a nasty learning curve, and they're always forgotten a couple days after you use them...like trigonometry.  So every time you have to learn it all over again.  But it does get easier with time.

It's looking good man!

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I said that about the Incra but I'm sure the same is true for the Leigh.  All DT jigs have a nasty learning curve, and they're always forgotten a couple days after you use them...like trigonometry.  So every time you have to learn it all over again.  But it does get easier with time.

It's looking good man!

Looking awesome!  Eric's also right about the learning curve and the fact that it's something you just don't use everyday so, have to constantly go back to the manual to get back on track again.

Thanks Gang!

The dovetail jig isn't all that bad, but I really need to follow the manual carefully. Before tackling the drawers I made a small poplar box with through DTs. The half blinds are a little gappy on that one corner of both drawers. I'm not sure, my left stop may not be entirely square or the way I'm guiding the router isn't quite right. Next time I use it I will take a little more time and see if I can get that cleared up.

Nice job Dave! The sliding dovetails are an awesome touch!

Thanks Shane. Despite not wanting to complicate the build, I just couldn't see myself using the dadoes and nails that are in the original.

Dave, that looks like it'll be a great cabinet. What will you be finishing it with?

Hi Dyami. I'm pretty sure I'll be wiping on some Arm-R-Seal (which reminds me I need to order another can). Maybe some shellac on the interior of the drawers.

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Thanks Gang!

The dovetail jig isn't all that bad, but I really need to follow the manual carefully. Before tackling the drawers I made a small poplar box with through DTs. The half blinds are a little gappy on that one corner of both drawers. I'm not sure, my left stop may not be entirely square or the way I'm guiding the router isn't quite right. Next time I use it I will take a little more time and see if I can get that cleared up.

Thanks Shane. Despite not wanting to complicate the build, I just couldn't see myself using the dadoes and nails that are in the original.

Hi Dyami. I'm pretty sure I'll be wiping on some Arm-R-Seal (which reminds me I need to order another can). Maybe some shellac on the interior of the drawers.

Fellas, while that's true of all dovetail jigs & you do have to relearn them every time you go back, I appreciate that the Keller Jig only requires a few minutes to relearn and has been performing flawlessly for me.
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Thanks Ross! I got the Rockler Mini Ball Bearing Drawer Slides.

This is the first time I've installed any kind of hardware so I don't really have a valid opinion on ease of installation. Notwithstanding, I found them fairly easy to install after I grasped the rather limited directions.

They are different than I expected in that the drawer can not be taken out once the hardware is installed; the sliders don't come apart. Also, the part that connects to the drawer side is fastened by a through hole in the drawer side rather than putting in screws that are hidden. I know I didn't explain that well. I'll try again. To fasten the drawer slide into the case you drill holes and screw it tight, as expected. On the other hand, to attach the drawer side of the slide you drill a through hole and fasten it by putting a threaded bolt through the inside of the drawer side into a threaded hole in drawer rail, snugging it up tight in the dado you cut.

All things considered, I wouldn't have chosen this type of hardware (had I known it installed this way) but I couldn't find anything that was specified as working for a drawer of under 12" depth. But they work okay, and I have no real complaints except the visible screw head inside the drawer.

I was at my girlfriends this weekend !

I like my Keller Jig. Simple and quick once the routers are set up.

if I dovetail drawers I use concealed under mount  soft close slides.

Something concealed would have been better. Do you know of a slide that will work with a drawer that is 11 3/4" deep? I had a hard time finding something that would work, but, as I said, it's my first rodeo...

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I completely agree...and I'm not happy with the mechanical slides, truth be told. I only thought that a ball bearing slide would be appropriate because it's going in a steamy bathroom and the current cabinet drawers bind like crazy. They have no slides; they're just a pine drawer in a pine box, but I was trying to avoid the binding.

Justification aside, can you see a way that I could do a wooden slide now that I've gone this route? I have a hole through the drawer side and would have to patch that, but would it work to make a walnut runner to fit in the dado in the drawer side and adapt that with an 1/8" reveal? The cabinet isn't glued up, so I could cut additional groves in the case sides.

I'm not asking how to do it...just do you think I could figure something better?

BTW...I'm thinking of complicating the doors too. Surely a cope and stick construction with a raised panel would be considerably better than a plank of wood.

Edited by davewyo
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 would it work to make a walnut runner to fit in the dado in the drawer side and adapt that with an 1/8" reveal?

Yes it would work.  Just remember that you'll be dealing with a cross-grain scenario there so you'll have to attach them to the case with that in mind.  I'd try to use QS stock for the slides in order to minimize movement.  You can always make them thinner to eliminate that problem altogether, but the thinner you make the slides, the more slop you'll have in the drawer as you pull them out.

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There are 9" and 10" concealed slides available. But they can have specific installation requirements. Most require 5/8 drawer sides and a specific gap to the case. You would have a hard time using an existing drawer and case with this hardware.

There is a learning curve to using concealed slides. They work best if the cabinet or furniture is designed with them in mind. You can build drawers to fit an existing piece.

i strongly suggest getting a pair and the needed drilling jig then building a quick drawer and case to practice installing them. Familiarize your self with the requirements before you build the drawers.

They operate smoothly and can give you the soft close feature for just a few $ more. Full extension and a drawer that doesn't droop are nice too.

It seems most "fine furniture" seems to still lean towards wooden slides.

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I've completed a few details in the last couple of days.

I did the bead on the drawer fronts:

http://IMG_1175_zpsem2ttwbe.jpg

I glued up a second top because I didn't like the way the colors matched on the original. I'm super happy with the current one so I put the chamfer on the upper edge and the bevel on the lower edge:

http://IMG_1173_zpsbpjidsto.jpg

Today I made up the door parts. There is still some tweaking to do:

http://IMG_1177_zpsi3s4z5aa.jpg

 

 

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It's going to look great with finish on Dave. I've used General Finishes Exterior 450 on any furniture that goes in a bathroom. It has a slight yellow tint to it. I've had some furniture in bathrooms for a number of years with that finish on with absolutely no water ingress or damage so can recommend it.

If I was using metal slides I would have used full extension undermounted ones but you have what you have now and it'll be great.

I know what you guys mean about the Leigh type adjustable DT jigs. Norm makes them look real easy but you have to read the manual every time if you don't use them daily. I have a fixed spacing DT jig that I only use for plywood carcases and keep the manual with that and always have to refer to it.

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Thanks Terry!

Although this is a pretty simple project I'm enjoying a lot of first time techniques. The drawers, the sliding dovetails, the cope and stick, and the hardware selection and installation are all new to me. Now that I'm into the build I'm finding that even though I spend an inordinate amount of time messing around (drinking beer) in the shop and not really woodworking I need to spend still more time in the planning stage. Apparently this woodworking thing takes a lot of careful forethought.

I'm intimidated by hardware installation. It's not the thing I enjoy most about woodworking. There are so many variations it is bewildering. Then there is so little provided from the manufacturer of what I would call mounting instructions. Next time around I'll put a lot more thought into designing shop made drawer slides into the piece.

 

 

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Your project looks really nice.  I like the details you have added.

As for dovetail jig, I agree with others on the re-learning aspect.  I went out and bought a Porter Cable jig to help me with my chest of drawers project.  I did a few practice dovetails and I fount out that I would spend several hours trying to get it just right.  Plus, the process made a mess.  After my third for fourth experiment, I gave up on it.  I watched Youtube videos on how to hand cut dovetails.  I ordered saws by Veritas and started my experimentation.  I learned quickly that I was much more efficient hand cutting dovetail than using the dang jig and a router.   It literally took me less time than using the router.  I also became a fan of slim pins and variable spacing.

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