LN Skew Block Plane


Immortan D

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I'm interested in this plane because (apparently) it comes with a fence and the cutting angle may help on difficult woods:

560ab34abf2c3_thumbnailw_500h_500m_a.thu

Intended use: cutting rabbets on bubinga, from scratch.

Currently using: power tool (router). Tried with my router planes, it's a no go, that wood is crazy.

Any users willing to share their experiences or alternatives?

Do I need both planes (left and right)?

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==>cutting rabbets on bubinga, from scratch.

Get yourself a moving fillister plane or a rabbit plane with adjustable depth stop -- the better mousetrap...

http://www.hntgordon.com.au/gidgee-joinery-planes/product/288-moving-fillister-plane-with-ts-blade.html

http://www.phillyplanes.co.uk/fillister.html

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=59999&cat=1,41182,41192&ap=1

 

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I have the Record 778 which is a rabbet/rebate/fillester plane. It is seriously good considering its cheaper price. I use the stock blade but you can upgrade it to a Hock. It has a nicker which does need tuning but I don't bother with that and just use a marking gauge or knife when slicing cross grain.

The LN and LV equivalents are obviously superb and if you want to spend a lot buy one. Bear in mind most of the time my fillester hangs in my plane cabinet but it's ready for when I need it. I do a lot of rabbets.

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==>PM-V11 or O1? Which one is best for a wood like bubinga?

'best' -- well, there is no 'best' metallurgy. It's a balance -- you are trading properties to get a balance with overall desirable properties...

We could go into metallurgy, or you could go to the source: https://hocktools.wordpress.com/

or, you could just get it in PMV11... :)

Why PMV11? Well, it's a good balance for what you are trying to accomplish...

Edited by hhh
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==>PM-V11 or O1? Which one is best for a wood like bubinga?

'best' -- well, there is no 'best' metallurgy. It's a balance -- you are trading properties to get a balance with overall desirable properties...

We could go into metallurgy, or you could go to the source: https://hocktools.wordpress.com/

or, you could just get it in PMV11... :)

Why PMV11? Well, it's a good balance for what you are trying to accomplish...

PMV11 it is then.

That blog has tons of useful info BTW.

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Rabbeting to a line is fine... No problems...

 

For me, it's more of an efficiency thing -- the depth stop improves speed and consistency across a bunch of components -- ex, the 140 trick for a bunch of drawers... I'm like 99% positive that LN will mod the plane (again) to include a depth stop...

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I can live without the depth stop, but I think the LV is going to be a better choice because of the extra weight. Almost 1.5 lbs heavier.

Still, the LN plane is GORGEOUS lol. That bronze is plain and simple hypnotic.

Doesn't matter which one I get, I will be longing for the one I didn't.

Plane weight is a horrible indicator of performance. I will never understand how this misinformation has become so prevalent.

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Pure marketing...

What would make it better by being heavier? Are you taking huge shavings with it and need to combat chatter? I wouldn't want an aluminum scrub plane... But this is a joinery tool, not a roughing tool. I know it's expensive, so someone may say the comparison isn't valid... but anyway, I'd put my BCTW rabbet plane against any other rabbet plane on the market. And that thing has almost no weight to it at all. It is aluminum, and performs flawlessly. 

If it did, guys using wooden planes would have a hard time making stuff with them. It's just one of those things.. It's like thinking you need a heavier cue when breaking in pool... It's just silly. 

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That's not the point I'm trying to make. But they certainly aren't wrong... 

BCTW is a completely different animal. Not a traditional design but a new one, with probably better physics, I cannot have on opinion on this plane but I trust yours.

When it comes to traditional planes, I prefer heavier. Take that as personal preference, not a fact.

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So much of this variation seems to be based on body mechanics and preferred technique. Every time I watch an all day hand tooler, I see them moving planes in ways I do not. I see a lot of woodies lifting off of cuts. More mass makes that more work. I see massive planes pushing all the way across at arms length. That can be a plus. I have both currently and seem to swing by moods. 

Edited by C Shaffer
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