Redfish Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Had to glue 2, 1.5"x.75" sinker cypress boards to create a 1.5"x1.5" piece. As you can see from the picture things didn't go so well. I need to be able to use what I've glued up so I'm going to have to fix it somehow. See the image attached. Is this a problem that can be fixed by running the piece through a planer a few times or should I rip it on the table saw, then plane it? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Do you have a jointer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfish Posted October 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 I don't at this time. I do have access to one if necessary. I should have mentioned that the error is not uniform to the opposite side. So picture an X, if you will. Same error on the other end. Boards are not totally parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 You need to get one straight edge, either with a jointer or with a jig on the table saw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Got a hand plane or did you already have them to final size before gluing them up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfish Posted October 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 I have 16 pieces. Some are a bit over the 1.5" I was shooting for. Some have the error that you see and some are nearly perfect. I was planning to run them through a planer anyway just to get them all uniform. It won't kill the project to have to go less than 1.5". I can get a hand plane if that's a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Given the tools you have , it sounds like the easiest solution is to take a piece of plywood or mdf with a straight edge and use it to straighten up and square one edge. This diagram is an example, but since all of your pieces are the same side you can simplify it by just putting fixed blocks instead of adjustable clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfish Posted October 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 I didn't think about that option. I do have the hold down's (from Rockler?) that are made to do just that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Then your on your way. Building a ts taper jig week come in handy in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Great for making table legs also......Never had to use one to square up stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strasberry Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Given the tools you have , it sounds like the easiest solution is to take a piece of plywood or mdf with a straight edge and use it to straighten up and square one edge. This diagram is an example, but since all of your pieces are the same side you can simplify it by just putting fixed blocks instead of adjustable clamps +1 with Andy Wright's method!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Given the tools you have , it sounds like the easiest solution is to take a piece of plywood or mdf with a straight edge and use it to straighten up and square one edge. This diagram is an example, but since all of your pieces are the same side you can simplify it by just putting fixed blocks instead of adjustable clamps Andy, where did you get this image from? Kind looks like Popular Woodworking production to me. If you got it from a magazine, would you please let me know month and year? Thanks! While we are talking bad glue ups, I ,messed up when I glued up dovetail drawer. It's not square, just stupid of me. I need to loosen up the joints, clean them, and re-glue.Any advice on what to use release the glue joints? I was going to try denatured alcohol. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) Andy, where did you get this image from? Kind looks like Popular Woodworking production to me. If you got it from a magazine, would you please let me know month and year? I pulled it from a google image search. This is the website where it came from:http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/6-table-saw-jointing-jig-plans-straight-edge-no-jointerIt does look like it came from a magazine, but the website where I got it did not have a reference Edited October 2, 2015 by Andy Wright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) While we are talking bad glue ups, I ,messed up when I glued up dovetail drawer. It's not square, just stupid of me. I need to loosen up the joints, clean them, and re-glue.Any advice on what to use release the glue joints? I was going to try denatured alcohol.unless you used a hide glue, you are probably stuck when it comes to loosening up a glue joint. if it is close to being square, your best bet is to try to figure out a way to "square it up".Option 1 is to trim away the outside of the box to make it square. Take a carpenters square and draw lines on the sides of the box referenced from the drawer front where it "should be" and then us whatever tools you can to trim to the line (hand planes, band saw, table saw, sand paper, etc.) This obviously only works if you are pretty close and will leave the sides of your box an inconsistent thickness. However, you can probably get away with taking 1/16" to 1/8" off of drawer side depending on the size of the drawer.Option 2 is to cut a rabbet in the bottom of the drawer to receive a thick panel, and use the drawer bottom to square up the drawer. Again, it depends on how much you are trying to correct - you can probably get away with a minor adjustment this way, Edited October 2, 2015 by Andy Wright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Milo, if you used PVA glue, it can sometimes be softened by moist heat. Lay a wet cloth over the joint and iron it, or use one of those things that de-wrinkle your shirts with steam, or even the steam generator from a bending box, if you have one.Be sure to clean out ALL the old glue, if you are able to get the joint apart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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