JoshC1501 Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Hello everybody, its been awhile. I have been lurking, just not posting much. Too busy building things in the shop!!I picked up Craftsman(Sargent made) Rabbet Plane a couple weeks ago for a nice price at a local antique store. I paid $20 for it, and 100% complete, first time I have found one complete. Started working to get it tuned up and ran into a few issues. I would appreciate some input.The bottom flattened pretty quickly, there is decent sized shallow area on the side opposite the main reference face. Curious if this will be an issue? I figured since the bottom is 95%+ flat and the shallow area is opposite the main reference face, then it would be no problem.When I started to lap the side reference face, it become apparent really quickly that It had some major problems up near the toe. See the attached pic. Starting just behind the blade is shallow area of around .004" and that continues up from the nicker to the opening for the bullnose. After the bull nose though the shallow area is .008" near the bottom. It extends up about an 1 1/2"My question is, with a plane of this type how flat is flat enough? Do I need this whole side dead flat, or will these shallow areas not effect use? I could probably spend the time to get most of the shallow up to the bullnose mouth, but .008" is a lot of steel to remove, and I am not sure I am willing to put in that sort of time to get the whole side flat. Appreciate any input I can get. Thanks in advance! Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I think it depends on how you plan to use it. I have one similar, inherited from my grandfather. It was pretty warped when I got it, and is still far from perfect. But I mostly just use it to clean up tenons and such, so a little out of flat doesn't bother me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshC1501 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I would like to be able to cut rabbets with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4square Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I would use it for cutting Rabbets. Those tolerance's are pretty good considering the age of the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Starting out your technique will be more important to how good the rabbets are than how perfect the sides are. If I booger the side of a rabbet I sometimes clean it with a shoulder plane (the rabbet plane itself could be used but then I'd have to take off the fence or turn it around and run it the other way.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 It's not a finishing plane but a joinery plane. I wouldn't worry about getting it dead flat. As long as it cuts rabbets it'll be good to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 It looks like a Stanley knicker will fit, and they are still available new. If it will take a thin shaving, it's flat enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Harvey Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Normally, in that area of the plane, it's the blade that rides against the wood. It's critical to ensuring you get a rabbit wall that is straight and perpendicular to the floor. You have to set the side of the blade so it protrudes a couple thousands from the plane body anyway. Do this by sitting the edge of a steel ruler across the blade and body, tap the blade over until you can rock the ruler a small amount with the blade as pivot. So if the blade sticks out anyway, the small divot in the body iron probably won't matter.Highland Woodworking used to have parts for the Stanley 78, which is similar. I have a Miler Falls 85 and bought the Stanley fence from them. I had to re-cut the threads to match the Miller Falls but it works. I don't see those parts in their catalog now, but you could call them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 This is a fenced plane. You want to avoid high spots. The fence keeps low spots from being an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Agree with Terry, sharpen and use. Assumed issues are often the worst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 If the plane is complete and only out .008", it sounds ready to go. I sneeze .008" difference on a good day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) Here you go: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/rabbetplanespursandspurscrewskit.aspx Sorry it's discontinued and sold out. If you find the need for one, I think there are three in the envelope I bought a while back.I have a Record 778 that I bought new, and it's been used a lot. I never once checked any part of it for flat or straight. Edited October 2, 2015 by Tom King Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshC1501 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Thanks everyone. Got it all put back together today, and it works pretty well. I kind of feel like the nicker protrudes down to far, it is difficult to get the iron to engage when using the nicker. It sort of rocks on the nicker. Since it has 3 sides, thinking I would file one down a little and see if it works better. Here you go: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/rabbetplanespursandspurscrewskit.aspx Sorry it's discontinued and sold out. If you find the need for one, I think there are three in the envelope I bought a while back.I have a Record 778 that I bought new, and it's been used a lot. I never once checked any part of it for flat or straight.Tom, thanks for the help but I found it complete. I just had the nicker out for cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Have you used a nicker before? Draw the plane backward a few times to cut the nicker a trough before going forward to engage the iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 The nicker is only used when planing cross grain. When going with the grain you usually turn it to the blank spot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshC1501 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Have you used a nicker before? Draw the plane backward a few times to cut the nicker a trough before going forward to engage the iron. I have not, but did some research on how to do it. That is exactly what I did. It has three different nicker lengths, the shortest extends below the bottom of the plane about a 1/16". On softwood it works "ok" on hardwood it is a show stopper. Either it is to long, or it needs to be sharper than it is? Thoughts?Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 Knowing this, I would start with sharper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 1/16" is a lot for a knicker. I don't think any plane I have that has one sticks down that far. it only needs to be slightly more than the shaving thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 It is important to recognize that a 78 is a tool for rough work, to hog off material; while fine work can be done, it's tolerances are pretty flexible. Totally flat sole is not required. Once you have the rabbet in fairly good shape, take a router plane to fine tune the depth to what you are looking for. As far as the nicker, if its too proud, I second your impulse to file it down a bit, and it should be pretty sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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