Popular Post derekcohen Posted October 11, 2015 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) I posted this on another forum. I thought some here may be interested as well ... Step1: flatten both sides of a the card. I use a well worn 600 grit Eze-lap diamond stone. This is 10 years old and now the equivalent of about 3000 grit.Step 2: use a magic marker along one edge (texta to us Aussies) to ensure you get it all.Step 3: Once both sides are done (I do all 4), it is time to square the edge on the diamond stone. Use the magic marker again.Step 4: This is the point where many think that they have done enough. They run the card over the wood (here, softish quarter grain Tasmanian Oak). Nothing but dust ...Step 5: Use a proper burnisher. Not a screwdriver shaft - too soft to do a damn. I use a carbide rod.Step 6: Draw out the steel. This is one of the vital ingredients. You want to pull the steel outwards with the burnisher. You will not create a proper hook without doing so. About 5 strikes from the left and 5 from the right.Step 7: Turn the hook at about 5 degrees. Do the 5 and 5 again ...Step 8: This is another crucial omitted step - do it again but at closer to 10 degrees.Step 9: Now take your shavings!BONUS: I made the following out of the end of a 3/16" thick O1 plane blade. It must be flat (as above).Take it to the grinder (mine uses a 180 grit CBN wheel) and create a hollow around the edge.And you are done ...This is the most amazing tool for shaping or rapid removal of waste. It does not provide as smooth a finish as the first scraper, but it works so much faster.Regards from PerthDerek Edited October 11, 2015 by derekcohen 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Nice tip Derek, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Good tips. I sometimes have difficulty in drawing out the metal. I use a very short burnisher from LV, so perhaps one with a longer shank would be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Oil.i had a pain of a time with this whole process until I started using a drop on each edge of machine oil and a little on the burnisher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 That is a great how to, thank you! I've been having a hell of a time getting my to sharpen up, probably because I've been to cheap to go buy a burnisher... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 A great tutorial Derek. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted October 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Oil.i had a pain of a time with this whole process until I started using a drop on each edge of machine oil and a little on the burnisher. This is unnecessary is you use a carbide burnisher - and do not use too much down force. It is too much if there is resistance.Regards from PerthDerek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 I use a carbide burnisher and find that oil tremendously improves my results. I guess YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Derek, that very well may be the case but many people don't have a carbide burnisher and wouldn't replace their current one for carbide. Just throwing it out for those, not intending to troll. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Derek, that very well may be the case but many people don't have a carbide burnisher and wouldn't replace their current one for carbide. Just throwing it out for those, not intending to troll.If your burnisher isn't harder than your scraper then you're gonna get crappy results with or without oil. I use a carbide burnisher but the oil makes for a smoother action and ultimately, in my experience, a stronger and sharper hook. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 I use an m2 hss crown burnisher from rockler. $30 price range. Works great. I don't know the metallurgy of the various scrapers I have but they all roll an edge quite easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 So anyone using the back of a gouge ? For what purpose is this "carbide" you speak of? Ahh, you use very hard scrapers, you so crazy .Nice write up Derek, a touch of lube improves many things. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) This is cool. The only time I tried to use my card scraper was when I didn't even know it was supposed to be sharpened. That's why you shouldn't buy things just because people mention it on a podcast. Edited October 14, 2015 by Cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 Derek, that very well may be the case but many people don't have a carbide burnisher and wouldn't replace their current one for carbide. Just throwing it out for those, not intending to troll.Carbide is easy enough to find - such as an old router bit - and well worth the effort. Chuck it in a drill press or lathe and polish it. It is the hardness and the polish that make all the difference. A high polish (mirror) means that you never need to use oil to lubricate the steel. I've been using this particular burnisher for about 5 years.Regards from PerthDerek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 I'm curious Derek, you mention a second rolling of the edge at closer to 10 degrees is "crucial". I've never done this nor ever seen it mentioned so I'm intrigued. Why do you feel this is crucial? Put another way, how does this step change the performance and usage of the scraper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hi ShannonI've been using card/cabinet scrapers for around 25 years now. I would say that until about 5 years ago I turned the hook with a single- rather than double stroke. It worked, often very well, but the reliability rate and the quality of the shavings shot right up when I began using the second stroke.Why? The simple answer may be that metal is hard and bends more easily when done so gradually than sharply. I'm theorising here - I doubt that I am being original, but I do not recall anyone explaining this. The double stroke offers more control of the angle as well, both in the evenness of the hook and its size. This method does not negate the single stroke method - just that it works better for me.Try it out both ways, and let us know your experience.Regards from PerthDerek 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splinterdawg Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I purchased a carbide rod (1/4" x 6") from Amazon some time ago and built my own burnisher. I cut a copper pipe to use as ferrules and pressed it all onto a piece of turned wood (don't remember the species). I planed some flats on the handle to keep it from rolling on the bench ... similar to those Sorby chisels. I remember paying about $12 for the carbide rod on Amazon. There are lots of suppliers for these rods, but you have to search a bit. I have found that the carbide gives me much better results and the carbide never gets scratched up or gouged like the store bought burnishers I have used.Charlie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Carbide is easy enough to find - such as an old router bit - and well worth the effort. Chuck it in a drill press or lathe and polish it. It is the hardness and the polish that make all the difference. A high polish (mirror) means that you never need to use oil to lubricate the steel. I've been using this particular burnisher for about 5 years.Regards from PerthDerekhttp://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Met-4D-6-PGPC-Precision-Polished/dp/B00KNZ3PUE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1446114156&sr=8-1&keywords=carbide+rod How is that for a cheap burnisher? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Grondin Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 sweet tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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