Cranked neck chisels?


SawDustB

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I was looking through the Lee Valley store the other day and was looking at a couple of different types of cranked neck chisels that they have. They seem to be very different styles, with the Narex:

10s1020s7.jpg

And also the Hirsch:

55j0310s1.jpg

They're both around the same price, and both look reasonably well made. I have a set of the Narex bench chisels I'm happy with, although these seem to be more than twice the price per chisel (presumably because they're specialty?). Has anyone tried the different styles of them, and what did you like/dislike about them? And what size(s) are most useful? My inclination is to pick up a single 3/4 chisel for now to try, since my reasoning for getting it is mainly trimming glue lines/squeeze out, and other trimming/paring tasks where it would be nice to register the chisel flat in the middle of a panel.

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I own the Narex set from Lee Valley- they are OK once you get them sharp, but sharpening took FOREVER (on an extra coarse DMT Dia-Sharp).  I flattened the entire bottom, figuring that it wouldn't register correctly if I only flattened near the tip like a normal chisel.

The 3/4" is probably the only one I use on a regular basis, and I pretty much just use it for cleaning up glue lines and trimming plugs.

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I suppose it makes sense that the shape might be for different purposes. I intend to use them for paring, so the Narex might be a better fit. Jim, thanks for your feedback on the Narex... I find I tend to use my 3/4 pretty much exclusively for cleanup, so that seems like a good size. I think I'm failing to see why this type of chisel would be all that useful in the full range of sizes.

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You might be better getting a chisel plane instead as you can do all those tasks you've mentioned with one.

That's not a bad thought...I guess I figured this would be cheaper (and simpler). I don't really need either, but I seem to spend a lot of time on my projects cleaning up glue squeeze out. It seems to get dismissed as an unnecessary tool but it would have saved me a lot of time yesterday.

Terry, I'm assuming you mean something like this: 05p7401s1.jpg

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That's not a bad thought...I guess I figured this would be cheaper (and simpler). I don't really need either, but I seem to spend a lot of time on my projects cleaning up glue squeeze out. It seems to get dismissed as an unnecessary tool but it would have saved me a lot of time yesterday.

 

Terry, I'm assuming you mean something like this: 05p7401s1.jpg

 

The the even cheaper and easier way to fix it is to clean up your glue before it dries on.  I set an egg timer for an hour and come back with a gasket scraper. Yes, an automotive tool, and not sharp at all.  I get I'd say 90% of my squeeze out this way. Hardly ever have to do more than hit the residual with a card scraper.

 

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The the even cheaper and easier way to fix it is to clean up your glue before it dries on.  I set an egg timer for an hour and come back with a gasket scraper. Yes, an automotive tool, and not sharp at all.  I get I'd say 90% of my squeeze out this way. Hardly ever have to do more than hit the residual with a card scraper.

 

That's the way to do it. Unfortunately, I never seem to make it out to deal with it in time, or I have a bad habit of gluing things up as I go to bed. How do you handle uneven squeeze out where some of it dries and some of it is still wet drops? I find I end up making it worse if I try to clean up at that stage. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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That's not a bad thought...I guess I figured this would be cheaper (and simpler). I don't really need either, but I seem to spend a lot of time on my projects cleaning up glue squeeze out. It seems to get dismissed as an unnecessary tool but it would have saved me a lot of time yesterday.

 

Terry, I'm assuming you mean something like this: 05p7401s1.jpg

Correct :)

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I can only recall wishing I had a crank-neck a couple times in my life...and I can't even remember the reasons anymore.  You should lose the "glue-up before bed" habit...best practice is to do what Brendon said and give the glue about 20 minutes to skin over, then scrape off.  Whatever residual glue is left behind is so insignificant you can quickly scrape or sand it away.  Allowing all the squeeze-out to dry overnight significantly increases the chance that you'll tear out wood fibers when you go to scrape it off.

I have a beater set of chisels to clean up skinned-over glue.  If you find you're having trouble approaching the glue joint in the middle of a panel, flip the chisel over and use it bevel down.

Once the majority of squeeze-out is cleaned up and the glue is completely dry, use a #80 cabinet scraper to level the panel and clean the remaining glue.

You can use a regular bench chisel or paring chisel to pare off proud dowels.  I use a card scraper to clean up squeeze-out on inside corners.  I'm not saying the crank-necks are useless tools...but I wouldn't be looking to purchase them unless I already had every other tool my shop needed.  Not even close to a shop necessity unless there was some oddball task you performed frequently with no better or equal alternative.

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Man, you guys are supposed to be helping enable my tool buying habit, not talking sense into me... :P Gluing up and leaving it is definitely the wrong move, but my woodworking these days is squeezed into 10-20 minute chunks at a time with a 2 year old and a new baby in the house. Thanks for the advice. I did use my regular chisels bevel down for my immediate glue clean up issues, followed with a card scraper, but this seemed like a better tool if there's a lot to take off. I'll try going back to a scraper soon after glue up. I've been using a chisel when I do go back soon after, but I found sometimes it would slice open the glue blobs and make more of a mess.

 

Is it wrong that I still want one? :unsure:

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