Bobby Slack Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 bRand new bathroom ... Pain is peeling I was asked to meet with the painter. But before going it would be nice to have some ammunition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Any chance the tile guy used acid to clean the grout up? The type of peeling looks like a cleaner or other moisture soaked up into the cabinet behind the paint. Can you certify there is no plumbing leak under the cabinet. This may not be the painters fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Any chance the tile guy used acid to clean the grout up? The type of peeling looks like a cleaner or other moisture soaked up into the cabinet behind the paint. Can you certify there is no plumbing leak under the cabinet. This may not be the painters fault. Thank you for your quick reply. I was told there is no water leak.Your comment about cleaning the grout is something I will ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Paint in a bathroom in contact with the countertop isn't a good idea in the first place. If the caulking isn't perfect or the bottom edges of the cabinet are not finished any type of finish will fail when moisture gets behind the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 No primer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 I agree on the lack of primer. Close look seems like no caulk either 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Thank you friends Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 What the heck am I looking at? Either I need another cup of coffee or this is just something I can't put my finger on. Either way..No primer is surely the cause. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 agreed that there should be a thick bead of caulk. Even if properly finished, if water gets under the face frame it is going to cause problems. who did the installation? Cabinet shop, contractor or homeowner? If homeowner did it and he did not caulk he might get a middle finger from the cabinet company. If contractor then he needs to fight it out with cabinet company because it appears to be both poor installation and a poor finish. Edit: you mentioned a painter. Were cabinets finished on site after installation? That is unusual but if so painter should have caulked. the cabinets were finished onsite. I noticed also orange peel on other cabinets.the job was installed February 2014 I will ask the painter what is his favorite primer but I'm sure he will not admit fault. How can I prove this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) It's interesting to me why the endgrain on the upright isn't peeling? However, I have to agree water or that piece of wood was contaminated somehow before it was coated. Any chance to get the cabinet off the floor an 1/8 or so and put a molding around it? Just make sure the molding is completely sealed with paint primer to aid against water take up from washing floors. Are the floors heated under the marble?-Ace- Edited October 29, 2015 by AceHoleInOne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Usually onsite painting is done to save $ , or in cases of major time pressure. But it's usually $Should have been primed at least on bottom edge and caulked at install. That would put the caulk under the edge instead of just in front of it. Caulk sticks to primer better than raw wood.Could be it was installed after the marble top was installed or a gap was left to slide the marble in after cabinets were set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Is it a floor or countertop? I assumed it was a countertop because normally a cabinet like that would have a toe kick or legs. good question. This is a countertop next to a sink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Water (or strong cleaning solutions) is/are coming from somewhere – excessive cleaning, missing caulk, five year old, something...Many KCMA-compliant sealers/primers are clear – so there could be a primer/sealer. Assuming a professional (and competent) painter and the bathroom application, there should be some sort of KCMA-compliant sealer (ask which one was used). For example, if there is a vinyl sealer, you wouldn’t see it in this photo.If there is a sealer and the topcoat has pulled-away, then it’s a compatibility issue – or maybe the sealer wasn’t toothed prior to top coating, or past shelf life, applied too thick and maybe a dozen other things...Most KCMA finishes are cleaning agent resistant, but only to a point... Strong cleaners left beading under the sink against the cabinet will erode the topcoat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 We are on damage control phase now. Here is another picture. the painter came and agreed to refinish. so to control future problems. 1. Prime2. Caulk ... Or silicon?3. Finish4. Caulk again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 IMO, a good clear acrylic caulk is what to use. It cures crystal clear & sticks better than silicone. Down side is that it can take a couple of days to cure completely. Silicone bonds so poorly to almost everything but glass that with time & cleaning the thin edges start to lift & look terrible. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thank you guys. The finisher and I had a conversation on Thursday and we will have another one on Monday. All cabinetry will be refinished on Monday. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I have used Lexcel caulk in wet locations for close to 40 years. It comes in white and clear and cleans up with mineral spirits. It dries but remains quite flexible even many years later. The clear is so transparent you can read the label through the tube. Both clear and white are paintable. I have found it at Lowes for around $10 a tube. It's also available in a squeeze tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I caulk a lot. Millions of lineal feet a year six years ago and thousands now as a summer grunt. That is the reality in exteriors whether plastic, hidden, or made to be painted. I wish I had known of Lexel sooner. Many many other quality caulks exist that cannot be used indoors due to long term off gassing. Lexel is my new friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Silicone and I are not good friends, but I've really come to appreciate Dow Corning 795 and 791. Bonds like a mother, and gives good working time for smoothing out. If you look around online you can find it for $10-12 per tube.. Comes in many different colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Silicone and I are not good friends, but I've really come to appreciate Dow Corning 795 and 791. Bonds like a mother, and gives good working time for smoothing out. If you look around online you can find it for $10-12 per tube.. Comes in many different colors. I agree Andy. Its the only silicone we use. Its great stuff. Sent from my SM-P550 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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