Kerfing Planes


Immortan D

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I'm confused how a kerfing plane would help in this case. A kerfing plane normally cuts along the grain, like a rebate.  Anyways, it's true pine does bruise very easily. I have found that it's better if I saw the shoulders of a dado with a carcass saw. The other option, would be tho remove the waste in the middle, while keeping quite clear of the shoulders. Then you can work towards your knife line, very slowly with paring cuts to keep from bruising. 

Edited by lumberninja
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I think this may be one of the few situations for which a side rebate trimmer may have been introduced. After undersize roughing your groove, you could skew down a paring pass much more quickly than some other options. I'd love to know why 4" wide. I think another common practice in softwoods with a dado running deep in the middle is to trim the joining stock to have a shoulder that will hide some tearout. This may be too late in the process for that now. 

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I think this may be one of the few situations for which a side rebate trimmer may have been introduced. After undersize roughing your groove, you could skew down a paring pass much more quickly than some other options. I'd love to know why 4" wide. I think another common practice in softwoods with a dado running deep in the middle is to trim the joining stock to have a shoulder that will hide some tearout. This may be too late in the process for that now. 

Lots of my projects involve wide grooves these days, including the last two I shared on these very forums. Look at the wood filler partying on this one for example:

2015-10-31_19.57.13.thumb.jpg.b1f3a49a09

The other project was the ninja saw case, I also had the same problem there but wood filler was not an option.

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If you've got one,  Eric's router suggestion would be my choice.

If you're sticking with hand tools, I'd saw the walls using a batten and a rip filed back saw  (dovetail saw or tenon saw) and then with both side battens still in place chisel out the waste.  Final cleanup with a router plane.

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yeah and get it done in five minutes. Then  what do I do the rest of the weekend? :(

 

Fill the grooves with things. Router with edge guide is honestly your best bet for consistency as well as sanity. If you're gonna start cobbling together solutions for something that's already got an answer, you're wasting time building jigs and tools that already do the job rather than working on your project itself. 

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Fill the grooves with things. Router with edge guide is honestly your best bet for consistency as well as sanity. If you're gonna start cobbling together solutions for something that's already got an answer, you're wasting time building jigs and tools that already do the job rather than working on your project itself. 

My project? Can you be more specific? I just want to improve my hand tool techniques. If that means I have to make a tool, then I make it and enjoy the process. 

 

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So in this case, I would saw multiple kerfs running parallel to your groove shoulders and then destroy the waste with a chisel. Clean up with a router plane and a shoulder plane. You mentioned it's a stopped groove. Might need to be gentle near the stopped portions. Treat that area like a mortise. 

I think power tools and stopped grooves were meant for each other. Even on narrow grooves, you have to resort to a chisel because the plows skate will ride up and over the stopped portion. 

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You may want to consider a kerfing saw riding against a batten to define the margins, repeated passes with the saw in the waste area to ease removal, chisel the waste and cleanup with a router plane... Look for a kerfing saw with a depth stop and fence...

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