duckkisser Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 https://www.google.com/search?num=50&q=craftsman+1-3%2F4+hp+premium+hybrid+table+saw+review&oq=craftsman+1-3%2F4+hp+premium+hybrid+table+saw+review&gs_l=serp.3...5341.7692.0.9415.7.7.0.0.0.0.122.728.2j5.7.0....0...1c.1.64.serp..2.5.518.n4EbT9qb5Pc yes i know its craftsman please dont post about it being crapsman this is going to be bought by a art co-op that asked my opinion. never used the tool but its a year old and the guy wants 500 is it worth it for them to buy it since they wont be doing intense work on it and they cant repair any old powermatics table saws they are not a wood shop they just need something to rip down some boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 No experience with that saw Duck, but it looks pretty decent for $500. That may be a touch higher than typical used market, but if is in really good condition, I'd say go for it. On the flip side, for simple ripping tasks, would a band saw be a safer choice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Ross beat me to the bunch on the bandsaw thought. They might get more bang for their buck and definitely do things the table saw can't. They might get the bandsaw and wonder how they did with out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted November 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 there going to be making frames for pictures and things to stretch canvas across or to make simple stands and bases so they wont be doing too much complicated work and there all unprofesionals so a strait cut on table saw will be ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew-in-austin Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Consider a track saw. Easier to contain the dust and much safer for ripping I would not always make this suggestion, but your specific needs it might've a better solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Ahhhhh, picture frames! Be sure to point them at the more lively miter sled discussions around here! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 yes i know its craftsman please dont post about it being crapsman this is going to be bought by a art co-op that asked my opinionI love when people ask for opinions but then qualify it by saying they only want affirmative opinions.The only fair thing to tell these people IMO, is, "It's a cheap saw but will probably work fine for what you need it for. Don't be surprised if it breaks." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Ahhhhh, picture frames! Be sure to point them at the more lively miter sled discussions around here!Well if they cover it with canvas it wouldn't matter if their miters are perfectly square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) The Craftsman 22116 was made by Steel City, was the successor to the popular 22124, and essentially has the same guts as some of the former Steel City models (35930, 35925), as well as the former Ridgid R4511. The 22116 has a pretty decent Biese "Lite" style steel t-square fence. It also has a granite top, which has both pros and cons. The basic design had a pretty good track record, and features fairly beefy cabinet mounted trunnions that span from corner to corner...they should be fairly easy to align. Combined with a good fence, good setup, and a good blade, it should be fine if it's in good functioning condition. For frames, a good aftermarket miter gauge or crosscut sled will be a must. Regular retail was in the range of $1000-$1100, so $500 seems reasonable if the saw checks out. The 22116 was included in a Wood Mag hybrid comparison a year or so ago, which gave it somewhat low marks for power relative to the G0715P and GI 50-200R, but it's very worth noting that they ran the 22116 on 120v, while several of the other saws ran on 240v....a possible critical variable on their part IMO. I realize in theory that it's not supposed to matter, but since it's one of the hottest debates on the internet, since 240v has less voltage loss and better peak amp flow, and since many of us have witnessed the benefits of 240v over 120v personally, IMO it's definitely worth mentioning in defense of the claim of weak power in that particular review. Lack of power relative to similar size saws has not been an issue I've read much about on this particular saw, so I suspect it's a non-issue.It's also worth noting that Steel City is out of business, so support and parts will have to come from Sears or whoever picked up the parts inventory....it's possible that SC is steel offering parts, but I don't know. Edited November 25, 2015 by knotscott 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 I love when people ask for opinions but then qualify it by saying they only want affirmative opinions.The only fair thing to tell these people IMO, is, "It's a cheap saw but will probably work fine for what you need it for. Don't be surprised if it breaks."i just dont want blanket statements what specific like the table saw at work all the screws striped so i replaced them and the gear shift clogs easy because the dust collection hole is too small ect... i just hate flat statements of its crapsman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 (edited) The Craftsman 22116 was made by Steel City, was the successor to the popular 22124, and essentially has the same guts as some of the former Steel City models (35930, 35925), as well as the former Ridgid R4511. The 22116 has a pretty decent Biese "Lite" style steel t-square fence. It also has a granite top, which has both pros and cons. The basic design had a pretty good track record, and features fairly beefy cabinet mounted trunnions that span from corner to corner...they should be fairly easy to align. Combined with a good fence, good setup, and a good blade, it should be fine if it's in good functioning condition. For frames, a good aftermarket miter gauge or crosscut sled will be a must. Regular retail was in the range of $1000-$1100, so $500 seems reasonable if the saw checks out. The 22116 was included in a Wood Mag hybrid comparison a year or so ago, which gave it somewhat low marks for power relative to the G0715P and GI 50-200R, but it's very worth noting that they ran the 22116 on 120v, while several of the other saws ran on 240v....a possible critical variable on their part IMO. I realize in theory that it's not supposed to matter, but since it's one of the hottest debates on the internet, since 240v has less voltage loss and better peak amp flow, and since many of us have witnessed the benefits of 240v over 120v personally, IMO it's definitely worth mentioning in defense of the claim of weak power in that particular review. Lack of power relative to similar size saws has not been an issue I've read much about on this particular saw, so I suspect it's a non-issue.It's also worth noting that Steel City is out of business, so support and parts will have to come from Sears or whoever picked up the parts inventory....it's possible that SC is steel offering parts, but I don't know. thanks Scott this is a a very professional and help full review you give both its strengths and weeknesses just what i was looking for. i had already thought that maybe it was a little under powered. but prity sure they wont be cuting up slabs of iron wood so they should be ok. Edited November 26, 2015 by duckkisser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I'm going to second the earlier opinion that if they're mostly ripping stuff to make frames and stretchers, a band saw is probably a safer, smaller option with a higher margin of error than the table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Using a BS generally additional steps to remove saw marks beyond minor sanding. The BS also won't cut precision miters. It's for me to imagine making frames on a BS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 The canvas frames don't have to be mitered. And the outer frames are usually made from prepared moldings, cut on a miter trimmer, no saw needed. A bandsaw should certainly be a viable tool for what they do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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