Lee Bussy Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I posted some time back that I was having troubles getting a straight rip from my Ryobi 4510. I think it was a combination of no infeed/outfeed tables, me working alone, ripping a full sheet of plywood the long way, and a maybe 22" of fence. Yeah I know, with all that going for me how could I have screwed it up?!There are some ways to put even a full size bessey on here, lots of plans/ideas on the Interwebz. I was looking for something a little less high tech to start with. I thought if I could get a piece of extruded aluminum, straight of course, and clamped it on there - it would be a pretty good fill-in.Am I way off base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Bienlein Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Here is what I did on my Ridgid 3650 fence with a piece of 1/2" phenolic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 (edited) Aha! Thanks for the idea sir.ETA: I'll bet UHMW would be good for that too. Edited November 28, 2015 by LBussy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Just make sure if your going to do it you shim out the face to make it dead flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 I'd be concerned with the UHMW staying flat at the unsupported ends. It needs a friend to help it stay on the straight & narrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Really? Not used it for much yet so I had no idea it would shift around. A guy could use a piece of angle iron across the top to make sure it stays that way I guess: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 For my DeWalt job-site saw, which also has an aluminum fence, I use a piece of 3/4" melamine and some fence clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 How far is practical to extend the fence? 6" per side? 10"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 An extrusion clamped / bolted to the existing fence is not a bad idea, and is plenty rigid. You can also make a jig to help with infeed & outfeed. Take a 1 x 6 and place it on edge, behind the fence, so that the face is against the fence, and the ends hang over the table by a foot or two on each side. Now attach a short section of the same stock to the bottom edge of the board, at each end. This should form an L-shaped platform at each end of the fence, in plane with the table. That gives you a helping hand in feeding long stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 (edited) I had to make shapes in the air with my hands to figure out what you were saying there ... but I get it! My wife thinks I'm doing some weird version of the Macarena however. That's a great idea.I was also looking at these plans for outfeed that will fold up and stow with the saw:http://stonehavenlife.com/ridgid-r4510-on-board-extension-table-plans/ Edited November 29, 2015 by LBussy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 If you have a circular saw, make a straight edge guide for it to break down sheet goods. It is far safer that ripping a sheet of ply by yourself, on a TS with far less mass than the sheet. THAT is a recipe for bloody disaster. A sheet of 2" foam insulation board, laid on the floor, is a good work surface for such operations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 If you have a circular saw, make a straight edge guide for it to break down sheet goods. It is far safer that ripping a sheet of ply by yourself, on a TS with far less mass than the sheet. THAT is a recipe for bloody disaster. A sheet of 2" foam insulation board, laid on the floor, is a good work surface for such operations.Not that I would have thought of breaking it down with a circular saw ... but at least for this project I needed 8' rips from the sheet.I'd love to get some of those panel clamps that let you run a saw down them but they are not too affordable - at least for me right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 I made a circular saw guide out of scraps; took me about 5 minutes, cost me nothing.You need something 8' long with a straight edge to act as a guide. I used a 2x4, but that's a little too thick. If I push the saw blade all the way down, the guide gets in the way. A 1x3 would be good. Then, glue and screw the guide to something 8' long and maybe a foot wide, to be the base 1/8" thick is fine, or thicker. Then, run your circular saw down the guide to cut it off parallel with the guide. Done.Line the base up with the cut you want, clamp it down, and then run the circular saw down the guide strip.If you want extra fancy, glue some sand paper to the bottom to resist sliding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 I always have this mental block - using wood as my reference. If I start out with something imperfect, it just compounds the issue the more I cut, doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 (edited) I always have this mental block - using wood as my reference. If I start out with something imperfect, it just compounds the issue the more I cut, doesn't it?I don't think it would compound it, but if the fence is a 1/4 out your rip will have a 1/4" bow in it. As long as the fence is straight from the front of it to just past the leading edge of the blade you should have a straight cut. When I rip I try to reference the fence where the cuts happening, and not worry about it at the back of the blade, unless your fence is toed in. Edited November 29, 2015 by ColinF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 If you want, you can make the circular saw guide I described with an aluminum extrusion or anything else you want as a guide. As long as it's tall enough to firmly guide the base plate of the saw, and not too tall. Say, 3/8" to about 1.25". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 I made a guide like Beechwood described, using the factory edges from a sheet of 3/4" ply ( for the edge guide ) and a sheet of 1/4" ply ( for the base ). Been using it for years, and still get a straight cut. You can even have the home center cut the strips for you on their panel saw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 If you want, you can make the circular saw guide I described with an aluminum extrusion or anything else you want as a guide. As long as it's tall enough to firmly guide the base plate of the saw, and not too tall. Say, 3/8" to about 1.25".Ah, good idea. It's straight AND it addresses my OCD. Same here. I saw a video by Izzy Swan and made one right away. Incredibly helpful.I went and saw that last night too. So y'all use this without clamps then? Izzy did that and added the sandpaper disks to the bottom. I can't see a great way to get it clamped without interfering with the saw motor.I need to see if my metal by the foot place has extrusions now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Mine doesn't have sandpaper, but the base extends on both sides of the guide bar. The clamps go on the other side of the guide. I was using it to clear out / enlarge the drainage grooves on a porch, and had a friend stand on it. I think if I was making an 8' one I'd add sandpaper and still use clamps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 The one I made is only about 12" and I use it for cross cutting 2x??'s I don't have sand paper on mine but I do clamp both sides before cutting. Sorta like a speed square? That's what I use if I'm stuck using a circular saw cutting dimensional lumber. Kreg has a jig for that (of course):Mine doesn't have sandpaper, but the base extends on both sides of the guide bar. The clamps go on the other side of the guide. I was using it to clear out / enlarge the drainage grooves on a porch, and had a friend stand on it. I think if I was making an 8' one I'd add sandpaper and still use clamps. Ah, I see. Good idea. Then I can use even a clothes pin-type clamp to hold it there:Kreg has another jig (don't they always?) that might be handy for rips and cross-cuts up to 24":(is there a way to scape larger pics in this edito?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Ah, good idea. It's straight AND it addresses my OCD. I went and saw that last night too. So y'all use this without clamps then? Izzy did that and added the sandpaper disks to the bottom. I can't see a great way to get it clamped without interfering with the saw motor.I need to see if my metal by the foot place has extrusions now. Mine has the base extending about 6" behind the saw, so I can use spring clamps to hold it without interference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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