An angled cut on a straight table saw blade


bushwacked

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So I was watching my normal videos and saw Toth put out a new one. http://youtu.be/kol045XK

He Does the doors with this angled cut. How safe is this? How hard on your blade is this?

I think the effect looks great though and if you have not heard of this guy he does some pretty amazing work as well. Check him out.

Edited by bushwacked
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If you mean the coves cut on the tablesaw, it is pretty easy. Safe enough if you set up the fence(s) solidly. Matthias Wandel even has a calculator to help determine the cross angle and blade tilt necessary for the desired cove shape. Taking light passes is key. I've done it on a few pieces, and find that a full-kerf ripping blade, with flat-topped teeth, leaves the smoothest surface. I hear a dado stack works well, also. In any case, be prepared for boatloads of dust!

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Yeah that's common practice.  My only problem with him is that he wraps all those doors with frames...they're hardwood panels and they're gonna open those frames up eventually.  The guy seems like he should have enough experience that he would know better.  It's so 101 but I see it so often.  Boggles the mind.

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Yeah that's common practice.  My only problem with him is that he wraps all those doors with frames...they're hardwood panels and they're gonna open those frames up eventually.  The guy seems like he should have enough experience that he would know better.  It's so 101 but I see it so often.  Boggles the mind.

I see it often too and at first I thought they must know what they are doing as I'm a noob. Now I understand they just won't follow it up with a show called "how I did wrong" years later.

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Yeah that's common practice.  My only problem with him is that he wraps all those doors with frames...they're hardwood panels and they're gonna open those frames up eventually.  The guy seems like he should have enough experience that he would know better.  It's so 101 but I see it so often.  Boggles the mind.

Thing is, in America today it is possible that piece could live in a very constant environment for many, many years, and never have an issue. Then one day, the power goes out, no HVAC for a day, and everything falls to pieces.
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 Then one day, the power goes out, no HVAC for a day, and everything falls to pieces.

It'll probably take more than a day to blow out. The lid on my blanket chest never moved at all When I lived in dry Alberta. But  after shipping it to humid Colombia the lid kept creaking and expanding for about 3 months. Once it finally stopped the 21" wide top was a full 3/16" longer than the breadboard ends - that would have blown the mouldings right off if I hadn't paid attention in 101.

However I'm still unsure of just how much you can get away with. Nobody thinks twice about a 4" apron connected cross-grain to a table-leg, but what is the limit? so far my experience is 4"<ok<21", but it would be nice to narrow it down a bit, because as you say you see it so often: lids glued onto boxes, cockbeading on cabinet doors, mouldings on cases, as well as framed panels.

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Yeah it also depends on what part of America you live in.  In St. Louis we get wild swings in humidity.  It's dry as a bone in winter here and a moist, swampy mess in the summer.  Come check out my hardwood floors if you don't believe wood moves here. :)  It's significant.  I guarantee the frames on the doors in that video would be pulling apart over the course of one year if they lived in my house.  Guarantee.

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So I was watching my normal videos and saw Toth put out a new one. http://youtu.be/kol045XK

He Does the doors with this angled cut. How safe is this? How hard on your blade is this?

I think the effect looks great though and if you have not heard of this guy he does some pretty amazing work as well. Check him out.

I made this jewelry box with the same principle as the video. A little care with the set up and slow and easy it was no problem. I did both sides, the top and the drawers!

Jewelry Box.jpg

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If you mean the coves cut on the tablesaw, it is pretty easy. Safe enough if you set up the fence(s) solidly. Matthias Wandel even has a calculator to help determine the cross angle and blade tilt necessary for the desired cove shape. Taking light passes is key. I've done it on a few pieces, and find that a full-kerf ripping blade, with flat-topped teeth, leaves the smoothest surface. I hear a dado stack works well, also. In any case, be prepared for boatloads of dust!

oh a cove cut ... ok thanks for clearing that up. It does give a cool effect I think and could be nice for some applications. I will have to check out Matthias' calculator so see what I can learn from that as well.

 

so how would you recommend doing the door frames? Not wrapping them at all or what?

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You can wrap a panel if the grooves are deeper than the panel width so the panel floats. You can use a single pin or spot of glue in the center,top and bottom. The panel can expand to both sides from the middle. Good rule of thumb is 1/8" deeper on each side per foot of panel width.

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