Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Old white oak, some checks/splits/cracks in areas that nobody will see. Here's an example:I'm thinking epoxy? If so what type will flow easily?Before someone says butterflys, this is inside a column. I'm sure someone *could* do i but it's not going to be me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Used many dozens of times: West Systems 105/207 + gentle heat (heat gun set on very low) = flowing epoxy good for crack filling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Used many dozens of times: West Systems 105/207 + gentle heat (heat gun set on very low) = flowing epoxy good for crack filling.Do you heat up the wood first and drizzle it in? Or heat the epoxy before it goes in?How about a favorite place to buy it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 The heat takes out the bubbles that form in the epoxy. No need to preheat the wood.I think I've ordered it from Rockler before but, I finally found a local source so, you'd need to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I get it from Jamestown Distributors -- they have a Amazon-Prime like membership, so I get free shipping... Epoxy is Hazmat, so shipping can get expensive...I use glue syringes to deliver the mix (also from JD). I warm the epoxy in the syringe with the heat gun which lowers the viscosity dramatically -- a little bit of heat goes a long way -- in a few seconds the viscosity drops to that of water...If you've never worked with marine epoxy, there are some threads on WTO that will help... What you don't want to do is mix a lot at one time and let it sit in the pot... Google 'Epoxy Volcano' and read the warnings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Page Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I have gotten west epoxy from marine stores before. Most of them should have it readily available. They usually have small volume sizes too, but it's a good thing (at least for me) to have on hand in the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I got mine from Amazon. If you only need a little something like the repair kit is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 +1 for west system. Either 205 or 207 hardener will work depending on the temps your working in. If it's a non visible area, I'd do a seal coat of un-thickened epoxy, then do another layup of thickened epoxy to help fill gaps. Trying to fill gaps like that with resin alone will take quite. Bit. Filler will give you more distance with the epoxy. 405 filler would be a good choice. If you need to tighten up the viscosity mix in a little 406 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) I get it from Jamestown Distributors -- they have a Amazon-Prime like membership, so I get free shipping... Epoxy is Hazmat, so shipping can get expensive...I use glue syringes to deliver the mix (also from JD). I warm the epoxy in the syringe with the heat gun which lowers the viscosity dramatically -- a little bit of heat goes a long way -- in a few seconds the viscosity drops to that of water...If you've never worked with marine epoxy, there are some threads on WTO that will help... What you don't want to do is mix a lot at one time and let it sit in the pot... Google 'Epoxy Volcano' and read the warnings.What's WTO?I know a lot of you folks use a bunch of this, I have NEVER used epoxy in woodworking so I don't know what I don't know. Right now I don't see a reason to keep using it after this but that may just show my ignorance. I'm familiar with Hazmat shipping costs - again from another hobby. It bites. I'll see if I can find a local distributor.I do have a ton of syringes for measuring liquids for other hobbies so I should be good there.I have gotten west epoxy from marine stores before. Most of them should have it readily available. They usually have small volume sizes too, but it's a good thing (at least for me) to have on hand in the shop.We have lakes in my part of the world - so it's possible they have repair shops around where I can purchase some.The heat takes out the bubbles that form in the epoxy. No need to preheat the wood.I think I've ordered it from Rockler before but, I finally found a local source so, you'd need to check.I'll keep them in mind, thanks.I got mine from Amazon. If you only need a little something like the repair kit is good.The difference I see between 205 and 207 is mainly the 207 cures clear, right? So in an unseen area that would not matter? I ask because the "kits" seem to not be in the 207. A setup like this looks to be a good one:$75.08 + $5.50 shipping seems reasonable. Maybe they don't have to do Hazmat under a certain quantity? I think a quart would be all I would need on this project. Edited November 30, 2015 by Lee Bussy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I'm sure Trip will chime in here.The 207 is for coating and fabric application.The 205 is fast cure epoxy (6-8 hrs) for bonding, coating, and fabric application.. 206 is slow at 10-15 hrs. 209 is extra slow at 20-24 hrs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) 105/207 is geared towards coating and lamination -- but it's the only one that cures [almost] clear and leaves the fewest bubbles in suspension. I posted some macro images of this some years ago.BTW: bubbles are usually the bigger pain, you've got to sand flat, then reapply another layer of epoxy...Since crack filling is generally non-structural, I use 105/207. If I couldn't get 207, I'd use 209. If you don't want to spring for 209 (most expensive), then I'd get a 105/206 kit and use it for all outdoor applications, structural applications and crack filling, with the caveat that it dries a bit yellow and retains more bubbles... Note: 207/209 are 3:1 mix ratio, so are a bit more expensive to use then 205/206.For the advanced hobby shop, a 105, 206, 207, pump set and glue syringe product purchase is probably the most helpful. You might get 105 in size 'B' (quart) and 206/7 in 'A' size (pint) to save some $$. However, I'm not sure 207 comes in 'A' anymore. West also makes a 'repair kit' with small packets of 105/205 if you don't want to spring for pints/quarts. I think these sell for under $20.BTW: 209 is expensive, but really handy for complex glue-ups. You get about an hour working time. So you spend the $$, but remove the stress of glue-ups --- how much is stress reduction worth to you? One reason to support West and not go bargain basement: they have the best technical reference library, applications guides (hundreds), etc available: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/Epoxy is pretty cool and has lot's of DIY uses... Have cracks in a concrete wall, there's an application guide covering that...They've recently made the wood boat bible: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/GougeonBook 061205.pdf free for download -- I paid quite a bit for mine in the good old days...The book has more info on epoxy then one may wish, but if you have an interest in wooden boats, it's a must have... Actually, if you're interested in woodworking at all, it's kind of cool to leaf through... Edited November 30, 2015 by hhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Excellent, I needed something to read today. Building a boat certainly uses a lot of the same skills as one would use building furniture, so I imagine that translates well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) >>What's WTO? THIS is WTO. Check your browser tag. WoodTalkOnlineEDIT: Google has been a better way to find older posts recently. Edited November 30, 2015 by C Shaffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Bussy Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 THIS.IS.SPARTA!Okay, ya got me there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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