Schematics...


Brendon_t

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image.thumb.jpg.bc1b836af5c1b81274fbda5cWhile tooling around with the griz shop planner, I noticed that I'm kind of backing myself into a corner with how the big tools are bunched in the middle of the floor. My garage door rolls up above just about all of them so a drop line doesn't seem even viable.  The saw is a 220 but everything else is currently wired for 110. The jointer and band saw both can switch over in the future, not sure if they need to.

so my question is two fold,

1 how many circuits do you think are needed here? The DC is the only real constant that runs with anything else. The plugs at the bench will only have to support handheld power tools, the Air Compressor is a pretty big power user I believe but would never need to run it with the DC system so should those be on the same line?

2 what's the best way to get the power to the center blob of tools? I was thinking a conduit floor mounted on the right side by the drill press would be the least intrusive.  But coming from the sub straight down, and over is an option also for a shorter run. Keep in mind the space is not that big.

AC circuitry is a bit out of my wheel house. My fil, who is doing the wiring will set it up however I tell him to but I honestly don't know.

Edited by Brendon_t
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I have a dust collection drop running into the middle of the shop, with heavy extension cords running to the tools that are zip tied to the outside of the dust collection duct work. I know that you will hear people say that extension cords are bad for your tools, but its all about sizing the extension cord properly for the length of the run. Both of the extension cord drops in my shop are 10 gauge and the exact length required. If you go to anywhere that sells bulk wire (Home depot, etc) you can buy the heavy duty extension cord wire and then buy the appropriate male and female plugs.

In terms of voltage drop, a properly sized high quality 50' extension cord is not too much different from an extra 50' of romex inside the wall, so unless your outlet is at the end of a loooong run of romex from the breaker panel the extension cord will work fine.

http://www.diybyexample.info/2010/07/what-size-extension-cord-do-i-need/

 

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This may be way out in left field, but since you don't park cars in there, why not adjust the upper limit on the OH door so it only opens 5' or 6'? then you'd be able to drop dust collection & power down between the TS & jointer. If you do drop cords from the ceiling you should use a proper cable grip to prevent damage.

Grip.thumb.jpg.d12a98d3753be60274a3c355f

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I'm having a hard time figuring out the scale of your drawing.  The garage door, I'm assuming is an 16' x 7', and the garage is 23' deep (or those dimensions coordinate with nothing, I really cant tell.  So it should only go into the garage about 1/3 although you have it shown as though it goes over halfway.   I'm not sure which is the true statement.  Unless you have stolen some area from the back of the garage to make another room. 

 

Could you move the workbench to the middle of the shop and some of the power tools to the walls? 

Edited by xxdabroxx
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I would put as many of the stationary tools on their own circuit as you can. You say you won't be using the air compressor when using dust collection, but the compressor may kick on if you were just using it and move to the saw etc...  

I would also look to put machines against the wall where ever you can. The tool box tools can be stored in drawers under an assembly table or in wall hung cabinets. When my space was limited, I made a big mistake building to much bench and not freeing up the wall space for machines. 

Another option is to put some machines that are easy to move (like router table)  in front of the garage door. You can drop down each front corner will dust collection pipe and run a flex toward the middle of door. That will free up the back more.

Edited by Janello
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Sorry yeah the scale is screwed up because the wall you are seeing is a partition wall.  My side of the garage is 15' deep, 18' wide. The garage door lifts 9 feet into my space. 

Adjusting the door to only open so much was a good idea.  I considered it before but 90% of the time I work with the door open all the way. It gives me great light and air curculation.

Janello, I really like the idea of having a drop to the two back corners.

Personally, I know there is no way I'm going to be able to plan out my optimum so layout.  I move tools around all the time as I need more space here or there.

How does each of the three walls being a separate 110 curcuit, a dedicated dc circuit, and a shared circuit for the table saw and compressor sound? 

Edited by Brendon_t
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I have only one ceiling drop and it powers my ts and router/table which are located in the center of my shop. And I guess by ceiling drop, we're all talking about the retractable reel? My reel is located between the inside tracks of my two overhead doors. Fits nicely. I ran power overhead to it with a receptacle mounted to the ceiling, then ran emt over to the front of the shop and down the wall between the two doors to another receptacle. Probably way more than you wanted to know?

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I actually don't keep my compressor on.  I only use it maybe once a month and flip the switch when needed. But yes, once it hits about 30psi, it will flip the trip on a power strip

I have only one ceiling drop and it powers my ts and router/table which are located in the center of my shop. And I guess by ceiling drop, we're all talking about the retractable reel? My reel is located between the inside tracks of my two overhead doors. Fits nicely. I ran power overhead to it with a receptacle mounted to the ceiling, then ran emt over to the front of the shop and down the wall between the two doors to another receptacle. Probably way more than you wanted to know?

 Ya coop, I have about the same thing right now. At the end at the end of the garage door up position I have a retractable hose reel and retractable extension cord and retractable extension cord line. Its quite convenient but It isn't really feasible to run an overhead cord that far over to the machines.

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If the duh in the sketch is a jointer, you need to flip it 180*.

no, maybe not, something just doesn't look right?

you see that seashell looking thing on the side of the jointer that doesn't have the motor and fence lockdown stuff, that's the blade guard.. On the side you stand on, that isn't on the back.. Yeah..

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Maybe this is a stupid question, but why not just move the machines in the center a foot further into the garage so you could drop power (and potentially dust collection) between the table saw and jointer? It looks like you are really close to being able to clear the edge of the garage door. I would hate having it run on the floor; seems like something you'd be tripping over.

Keep in mind that with a ceiling power drop there's nothing to say it has to drop perfectly vertical to the floor. If you added a support up from the floor, you could have it drop behind the door and still keep it up out of your way. We have something similar rigged up at my workplace, where we often are moving large 3-phase equipment in temporarily to test it.

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So eric, the electrical for your ts,ds,and spindle sander plug in over on the far wall under the clamps? 

Also, at your convenience, could you snap a picture of the duct work with the garage door raised?  I can't quite see how it gets there. 

Edited by Brendon_t
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Correct.  Table saw anyway.  Those other two plugs are for jointer and planer.  The DS and OSS are both 110V.  But they share a fat cord and it runs on the floor right next to the TS cord.

Isnt your jointer all the way on the other side of the shop?  How does the plug make it from the jointer all the way to that outlet?

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