bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Here is my issue ... The baseboard for the stairs hits the ground higher than my baseboard I am running around the rest of the house. If you look at the last step you can see the pencil mark where the stair tread will end up. Above that will be the molding from the stairs, about 3-4" below that is where the baseboard from the room will connect. Has anyone ever dealt with this issue before? I was thinking I could just kill both runs off, but then that my look like crap. I was also thinking of doing double returns on the ends of each to kill them off a little more fancy, but still not sure that would look that good.I would like to try and make a smooth transition if at all possible.Here is the wainscoting I am running through my house ... Here is a full pic of the stairs ... They were almost 3/4" off from top to bottom so it was a lot of reworking and rebuilding the stairs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Frame the opening like a doorway or pillar. The vertical trim or built out base give a clean termination point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 here is a bigger picture ... will that plan still work here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Is the wainscot also running on that wall? If so, yes. The wainscot runs into the stairwell a bit to create a depth for a return. Eh, either way. Think newel post. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 cut the stair trim parallel with the wall and rout the edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Dramatic space !i would miter all the boards. Where the base tops out just add a piece of mitered stock as a return to the wall. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 If you follow Steve's plan, I like to stop the return back from the corner to create a reveal. I think it looks off if you attempt to make this return flush. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 That's a bit tougher cut to make but it will look better. The part to the base must be flush to the corner, then a slight recut to make the reveal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Is the wainscot also running on that wall? If so, yes. The wainscot runs into the stairwell a bit to create a depth for a return. Eh, either way. Think newel post. yes the wainscot you see in the other picture will be ran throughout the first floorDramatic space !i would miter all the boards. Where the base tops out just add a piece of mitered stock as a return to the wall.I am not sure we can do that with the wainscot going to be connecting into the stair area as well and all through the first floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 If you follow Steve's plan, I like to stop the return back from the corner to create a reveal. I think it looks off if you attempt to make this return flush. That's a bit tougher cut to make but it will look better. The part to the base must be flush to the corner, then a slight recut to make the reveal.So with this route, the 3-4" difference on the moldings will still look good if I just stop the return back a little from the corner ... would this be on the stair side and wall side? Or where would I end the wall side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Google "wainscot meets stair wainscot" and dig a bit. Most commonly people set the stair or the room to match which means a slight elevation change. You can see three or four unique transitions in the first fifty photos if your results are similar to mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Google "wainscot meets stair wainscot" and dig a bit. Most commonly people set the stair or the room to match which means a slight elevation change. You can see three or four unique transitions in the first fifty photos if your results are similar to mine. Perfect. I will do that. Thanks for the idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Maybes it's cause I'm in Thailand so the results are a little different? But I am having a hard time finding any transitions that are close to mine. A lot of them are basic to a wall in like with the stairs or doorway if it's got a 90 turn in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Is the finish floor going to be the same thickness as the stair treads? The first riser looks the same height as the others to me, but it might just be the way it looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Eh, either way. Think newel post. There will be a lot of traffic at that corner, maybe moving furniture or carrying stuff. Protecting the corner with a post or something makes sense, and solves your transition problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Is the finish floor going to be the same thickness as the stair treads? The first riser looks the same height as the others to me, but it might just be the way it looks. I am going with 3/4 solid oak flooring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 There will be a lot of traffic at that corner, maybe moving furniture or carrying stuff. Protecting the corner with a post or something makes sense, and solves your transition problem. Ya I know as thinking a post but would it need to be a scaled down model of the posts in building for the rest of the stairs or same size post? At the moment the plan is to have something like around a 6"x6" size post for the other areas on the railing. Or take the post design and just put it on the wall in like a 3/4" or 1 1/2" thickness. Basically just build the design of the post but not really any actual beef to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 I think of "post" here as heavy Colonial door casing. It just stands deeper than the rest of the trim (or flush with the deepest trim) to give you a termination point. If your deepest wainscot trim is 5/4", then we routinely ripped 3/8" shims (give or take for look) to build out 5/4" trim. I am not saying it will look right. We often made a mock-up first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 I found this example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 hmmm the newel post idea may not be a bad idea ... not sure how strange it will look, but I guess a mock up is needed to get an idea. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 5/4 stock to make a post like detail would work well. Different moldings on each side get ignored due to the break the post gives visually 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 good to hear ... hear is the brick pillar I tore down and am replacing with this look for a wooden pillar. The newel posts will all keep this same type of look as well. So this will be what the newel post at the bottom of the stairs would be pretty close to looking like if I go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjk Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 When I first saw the title to this topic my dog had just nose-printed my tablet, leaving a smear. It looked like the title was "how to *ruin* the transition on my stairs".Your trim is looking great - that is going to be a very impactful room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobInAustin Posted December 3, 2015 Report Share Posted December 3, 2015 Here is how they did mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted December 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2015 When I first saw the title to this topic my dog had just nose-printed my tablet, leaving a smear. It looked like the title was "how to *ruin* the transition on my stairs".Your trim is looking great - that is going to be a very impactful room.haha very interesting title! Thanks! I am hoping it will finish out great and make people say "Damn!" when they walk in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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