Free Standing Shelf


Coop

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As usual, I'm probably over thinking this. I want to make a small free standing shelf that will go in a closet to hold ammo. It will be 24x24x12 deep with three shelves and a 1/4" ply back. Sides and shelves will be 3/4" pecan. I know it's going in a closet, but I need the practice. I would like the shelves to rest in dadoes in the sides with part of the shelves to extend thru the sides as thru tenons either one larger one or two smaller ones. Plan of attack is to build a jig, practicing on scrap to correct size for the dadoes, using a plunge router to cut the stop dadoes.  Then cut the dadoes approx. 1/4" deep.  I can see using a wheel marking gauge to mark the top and bottom of the top and bottom shelf on the outside of the case for the thru tenons, as the gauge will reach that far, but how do I mark the same on the middle shelf? Just transfer the lines around the edges to the other side with a marking knife or sharp pencil, and hope I get close? Or chop thru with a backer board to prevent blow out?

 

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4 minutes ago, Brendon_t said:

So your Are setting the shelves in a dado and doing through tennons?

Is your tennons goint to have a shoulder? If so, I'd cut the mortises undersized, then use the dado stack to dial in the width for those, dado's are just dados.

I wasn't planning on them having shoulders, should I. And I wa planning on having stopped dadoes, so I can't use a dadoe stack?

 

4 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

1/8" deep is plenty. I cut the dados for the library ladder/ stairs 3/16 deep.

Thanks Steve. I just thought the deeper the dadoes, the less I would have to remove for the mortises?

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24x24x12 could be quite a bit of ammo = quite a bit of weight... If filled, it could impact your shelf material/thickness and/or joinery... If you haven't yet, give the sagulator a whirl...

 

==>I keep a sword in the closet. No ammo. Does this help?

I’ll see your sword and raise you an 870 (synth 7-shot, of course)... :)

 

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6 minutes ago, hhh said:

24x24x12 could be quite a bit of ammo = quite a bit of weight... If filled, it could impact your shelf material/thickness and/or joinery... If you haven't yet, give the sagulator a whirl...

 

==>I keep a sword in the closet. No ammo. Does this help?

I’ll see your sword and raise you an 870 (synth 7-shot, of course)... :)

 

It will probably be 1/4 or less full. Given that, what are your thoughts on all three? Maybe 50 - 60 lbs. total

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44 minutes ago, hhh said:

24x24x12 could be quite a bit of ammo = quite a bit of weight... If filled, it could impact your shelf material/thickness and/or joinery... If you haven't yet, give the sagulator a whirl...

 

==>I keep a sword in the closet. No ammo. Does this help?

I’ll see your sword and raise you an 870 (synth 7-shot, of course)... :)

 

I don't even know what those words you said mean! I got three other swords and a bag of knives! I'm all in.

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Trip is referring to a shotgun with the plug removed..  Most reliable shotgun ever built too boot.

3 minutes ago, Cliff said:

I don't even know what those words you said mean! I got three other swords and a bag of knives! I'm all in.

Trip is referring to a shotgun with the plug removed..  Most reliable shotgun ever built too boot.

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I really can't picture what joinery your going for. 

Although I'll throw in to think about how you get and keep your ammo. If you buy metal boxes, a foot deep may make sense but that seems really really deep to me.  I keep my reloading materials on a shelf 8" deep.  Three boxes deep fit just fine and that may be a bit too deep

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==>Maybe 50 - 60 lbs. total

Not exactly heavy, not exactly light...

It's heavy enough where a quick/dirty sketch would be helpful...

 

==>The shallower dadoes that Steve mentioned make more sense as it will remove less material thus making the sides stronger.

Yes, but you may run into sag issues...

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Since it is going to be on wheels add an upturned lip to each shelf which could be part of a face frame . This would stiffen the case and prevent boxes from falling off the shelf.  You could domino the face frame to the case and shelves on both sides, or use a 1/2" back if just 1 side open.

leave enough room between shelves to lift a box over the lip and allow clearance for your hand as well. Put the casters as far apart front & back to reduce any tipping when the wheels swivel.

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I do have a sketch. As ocd as I am, I'll probably have a whole notebook of sketches for a 4 board build (decided on two shelves instead of three), before it's all said and done.

I also decided on using the dado stack as suggested instead of stopped dadoes. And Steve, it won't be on wheels. It will just have 4 little "feet" if you will, cut into the sides as it will sit on terrazzo tile.

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On January 9, 2016 at 10:57 PM, K Cooper said:

It will probably be 1/4 or less full. Given that, what are your thoughts on all three? Maybe 50 - 60 lbs. total

Sounds like you need more ammo...

Why not cut the mortises first, then you'll know exactly where the dadoes need to be?

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2 hours ago, Don Z. said:

Sounds like you need more ammo...

Why not cut the mortises first, then you'll know exactly where the dadoes need to be?

Right now, the ammo is in a gun cabinet and sitting on the floor of a small closet. There was a small amount of space left so thus the size of the shelf. Luckily my wife's uncle re-loads, unfortunately, he lives 6 hours from here in Franklinton LA. And I did cut the mortises first, then the tenons. Glue up today!

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