woodsmoke Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 After watching a demo by a Canadian outfit with a small carriage attachment on a 14' bandsaw at the Baltimore wood show, I have been scratching my head. It seems their secret to straight sawing is to hold the work piece rigid, not allowing it to move. Their claim is that just released stress at, and past, the cut line, allows the work piece to push against the fence causing blade drift. It kind of makes sense.. But a grand for their log cutting jig set up for board re-saw seemed a bit rich for my shop. Maybe today while in the shop I'll try a re-saw with the fence withdrawn to a point where it ends a couple of inches before the blade. I would think that with no fence to push off of the drift problem would go away. They demo'd this theory by removing the guide bearings and backing the blade tension way off. Holding the work piece tight, the cut was dead straight. The short fence , I would think, would give the same results. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmoke Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 At the end of a shop session, I tried the resaw idea. I backed the fence off ending 2" before the blade. I was using a 1/4" blade that hit a screw last week and tried resawing a 3/4" x 6" x 6" piece of pine. It sawed fairly well, but within and inch or two of cutting it started a slight drift. I may try again with a better blade suited for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 If this Canadian company is a father/son team and they sell a small unit that will slice logs on the band saw, DON'T do it. Nuff said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 7 hours ago, woodsmoke said: I was using a 1/4" blade that hit a screw last week and tried resawing a 3/4" x 6" x 6" piece of pine. It sawed fairly well, but within and inch or two of cutting it started a slight drift. I may try again with a better blade suited for this. Attempting to dial anything in with a blade that has already hit a screw seems like an exercise in futility. A, metal will knock the cutting edge off of a tooth in pretty short order, and If the blade hit the screw at any sort of angle, it may have screwed up your tooth geometry. A few weeks ago, I hit a brad nail. Immediately, the blade could not cut a straight line. It wanted to walk over into the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 i just watched a tutorial where the resaw fence was placed a few inches past the cut and seemed to be okay, of course i have seen a few tutorials where guys dont use a fence other than a curved surface just beyond the blade and seem to do okay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 The vertical sled I built for resawing shingles works perfectly. I bought a 48" T-track, and T-runner from Peachtree. Put the T-track in a dado in a piece of 4' long 3/4" Birch plywood that is clamped to the bandsaw table with a couple of C-clamps. The runner mounts under the "sled", built like a plywood resaw fence normally is. One the back end there is a cleat that holds the board. I use a stick in my right hand to hold the board in place until it's started good, then push it through. Cuts are normally close to perfect with the Woodmaster CT 1.3 TPI blade. I put some short pieces of Rockler T-track under the movable fence perpendicular to the long T-track to be able to adjust the thickness and amount of taper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmoke Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 15 hours ago, Tom King said: The vertical sled I built for resawing shingles works perfectly. I bought a 48" T-track, and T-runner from Peachtree. Put the T-track in a dado in a piece of 4' long 3/4" Birch plywood that is clamped to the bandsaw table with a couple of C-clamps. The runner mounts under the "sled", built like a plywood resaw fence normally is. One the back end there is a cleat that holds the board. I use a stick in my right hand to hold the board in place until it's started good, then push it through. Cuts are normally close to perfect with the Woodmaster CT 1.3 TPI blade. I put some short pieces of Rockler T-track under the movable fence perpendicular to the long T-track to be able to adjust the thickness and amount of taper. Tom, it sounds like you built exactly what I'm trying to design. But, I'm missing something in the description and can't come up with the mental picture. Can you please post a photo or two? Thanks, Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Might take a day or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmoke Posted January 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 13 minutes ago, Tom King said: Might take a day or two. That will be fine, Tom. Worth the wait. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Here's the 48" track I bought and use. I ended up shortening the one that fits inside to just a little longer than the sled. The short piece is then fastened to another layer of 3/4" Birch plywood. On top of that plywood are a couple of short pieces of T-track from Rockler perpendicular to the main runner track. On top of that is a plywood right angle piece made like the typical homemade resaw fence. Coming through the bottom of that piece are a couple of T-bolts in the Rockler track with knobs on them to tighten to establish taper (for the shingles), and distance from blade for resaw thickness. The bottom four foot long piece of 3/4 Birch plywood that the long T-track is in is fastened to the bandsaw table with a couple of C-clamps. It works great. http://www.amazon.com/ALUMINUM-MITER-T-TRACK-Peachtree-Woodworking/dp/B000KV14PY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmoke Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Thanks Tom. now I have the mental image of what you did. very clever. Nice work. i'm going to build one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I used it for about 15 minutes this morning, but the camera battery was dead, and then we went to the jobsite. At first I put a machine screw on each end of the long track, but the plywood developed a little hump in it causing a bind, so I just took the screw and nut off the far end, and it works perfectly. The base sits behind the sled far enough that the piece being resawed sits on the bandsaw table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmoke Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 That last sentence lost me. We need those batteries. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 The fence moves on top of what I'm calling the base. The "base" is attached to the aluminum runner that runs in the 48" track. The "fence" adjusts by the short T-tracks perpendicular to the long track. All the base does is slide in the long track, and holds the two short T-tracks that allow fine adjustment of the "fence". The fence overhangs the base on the blade side so the piece being resawed never touches the jig base. The piece being resawed slides on the bandsaw table. The 24" Centauro has a pretty large table. I'm sure it would be fine for it to ride on the base, but it would eliminate some of the available resaw height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsmoke Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Gotcha, Thanks Tom. When I get one cobbled together, I'll send a photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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