Brendon_t Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 After hitting a brad nail in the end of a board and trashing my old resaw blade, I grabbed a few new timber wolf blades since I like the low tension needs. Slapped a brand new 1/2" 3tpi blade on then proceeded to re tune since the blade seems thicker than the old one. Set everything, have the blade tension set about half way between the 1/2" setting and 3/8" setting. The cut quality is absolute crap, not even washboard, it's like a topomap. Could that tension still be too high for the blade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Don't go by the gauge at all. If your blade isn't fluttering loosen it up until it just starts to flutter. Then tighten it down a turn or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 timberwolf blades need a crap load of tension. The indicator on your saw is useless. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Mike, I have always read that the Silicon steel timber wolf uses needs much LESS tension than standard induction hardened steel. Am I mixing up brands? Since most 14" saws aren't great at actually getting high tensions, that was the major selling point to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Brendon I use timber wolf blades in my 14", and use the "Snodgrass" method to tension them. I usually get decent results when resawing. After I moved the saw to my current shop, I had some really nasty results and discovered the motor and pulley had loosened. Tightened everything up and it was back to normal. I use a 3/4 for resawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Where are the gullets riding on the tire? Tension is subjective depending on the blade but the gullets need to be riding center in the top tire for support ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Brendon_t said: Mike, I have always read that the Silicon steel timber wolf uses needs much LESS tension than standard induction hardened steel. Yeah Brendon they do claim that they are low tension blades, but I've always found that they need about the same amount as any other brand. If I follow their instructions for tensioning I get terrible performance. I've always hated blatantly ignoring their advice but I just can't get them to work right without cranking them down. I think 1/2" is max width for a 14" saw. I might back off to 3/8". I won't go any bigger than 1/2" on my 17" saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Grizzly claims the saw will handle a 3/4" blade. I think by handle, they mean one technically will fit on the wheels because there is no way that saw will tension 3/4" blades much less have the power to plow them through much of anything. The gullet of the blade is riding just barely in front of the half way line on the tire. This is the place every 1/2" blade prior rode as a sweet spot. Looks like I will be doing some tinker and see. I'll back the blade off a considerable bit and tighten, test, repeat. I'll report back the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 I think "low tension" means when you break a weld and call them they can say, "Hey, we told you it was low tension." I haven't figured out what the standard that they have to be lower than is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Brendon, first of all, quit using pallet wood. Find yourself a hardwood dealer. It's a whole lot more fun. Secondly, are you resawing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Coop I just can't, I tried to start a pallet wood lovers anonymous grope but nobody showed up. Crappy thing is, it was hardwood. Last time I picked up some wallynut from my store, after I loaded it up, the yard girl came by and hammered at least 10 pinhead brads into the end of a 12' board to attach the red flag that is required by law here when something sticks more than 40" out of the bed of a truck. Clearly, I didn't get them all with pliers because wouldn't ya know it, my spinning blade found it. i keep a 1/2" blade on the saw all the time as the majority of my bs cuts are straight or straightish. I switch out to the sharp blade for resawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 My method for blade tension is to start out rather loose and tighten a little at a time, watching for flutter and listening to the saw. I think the listening to the saw part tells you the most. As soon as flutter is gone and any blade noise goes away (you just hear motor hum) that's when I stop. Then of course test a cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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