Cherry platform bed with storage


estesbubba

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I was supposed to start on this a year ago but convinced my wife that a new bench would make this bed easier. We are going from a queen to a king, and to gain space back in the bedroom, getting rid of a dresser so storage under the bed is a requirement. Here is the design I came up with. 

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I didn't realize it at first but this project is going to take a lot of wood! I bought over 100 BF of 8/4, 6/4, and 4/4 cherry plus 5 sheets of birch plywood and that doesn't include the drawers. 

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I glued up the legs tonight so one side will be bookmatched. I have the legs at 3" in the design but I think I can finish these at 3 1/2" which might be better with the big headboard and footboard. 

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10 hours ago, sheperd80 said:

The design looks great. What are 5 sheets of Birch for if not the drawers?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

The plywood is for the toe kick, cabinet, and mattress platform which I'm going to follow FWW 240 pretty close. I have enough cherry for the false drawer fronts but don't have any material for the drawers. I'm going to use solid wood for the drawers (soft maple...or maybe alder but might be too soft) and cherry for the front and use dovetails (or maybe box joints). 

Now I wonder if alder might look nice for the panels of the headboard and footboard? It's a little lighter than cherry and don't think will darken with age but has similar grain. Might need to do a test board...

The drawers are going to be pretty big around 24"x24" and the FWW article used 3/4" plywood. Going with solid wood do you guys think I should use 5/8" or 3/4" for the drawers?

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I use 5/8 Baltic for most of my drawers. 5 mm dominos work great for the corners. It actually measures 19/32 or 15 mm thick   So a 5 mm domino centered is ideal. On bigger drawers I use a 1/2" or 3/8" ply bottom. Rabbet the edges to fit into a 1/4" groove. I leave 1/2" below the groove.

KV full extension slides with overtravel pull out an extra 1 1/2" KV8505 I think.

KV 8405 works too & costs less.

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41 minutes ago, K Cooper said:

Mike, what did you use to smooth the edges after using the jig saw? A flexible sanding block like Marc uses?

Used my Ridgid edge and spindle sander for most of it then finished with standard hand block. 

40 minutes ago, TIODS said:

Nice job on the template!  Love all the detail!

Thanks Kev.

9 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

What material did you use for the batten to draw curves? I always seem to grab one with the worst possible grain, and break it.

I think it's white oak. 

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9 hours ago, Chet K. said:

Oh Man!  At least it wasn't the freshly minted Roubo

 

9 hours ago, JosephThomas said:

Was that your new assembly table?

Yes glad it wasn't the Roubo and my new assembly table instead but still not happy about this.  Exactly why I built this was for glue ups and power tools but this was a bonehead mistake. I made sure both ends were outside the table but forgot it curved towards the table.  

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Much better evening in the shop as I finished jigsawing the top rails without cutting into anything I wasn't supposed to. There's something about using the jigsaw that kind of annoys me. I don't know if it's because I concentrate on the line too much or don't blink enough, but every couple of minutes I need to step back and take a 30 second break. Anyway the rough cutting went as planned then on to the router table. Since the top rails are 1 3/8" I had to make a first pass with a pattern bit using the template then take a 2nd pass using a flush trim bit. I think they came out good.

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One of the top rails against the wall to show the profile better.

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Had tearout in one area using the pattern bit. Any suggestions on how to repair it? I was thinking about epoxy mixed with cherry sawdust. I could also use cherry Timbermate. 

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