BeingFrank Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Long time lurker/amateur wood worker here hoping to gain from your experience. Say you woke up tomorrow and your shop had zero finishing supplies, no poly, no oils, no waxes, no shellac, no spray equipment. Just an empty shelf. You are working with primarily walnut and maple woods, making items that you want to have decent protection on (coffee tables, desktop items for office, small shelves, etc), but all interior projects. I know the list could go on forever (just like asking what tools a person needs), and I realize each project can need a different finish for a different purpose/look/feel. But generally speaking, if it were YOU, what MUST HAVE items/brands would you grab first just to get started? I hear a lot about Arm R Seal, and various other brands, and I know you guys probably have more finish products than I could imagine, but just for a basic general startup if all your products were gone. Lets put a $100 limit on your first trip to the store (Rockler is the only store within 100 miles that sells various brands that I've read about). What brands and what items would you get? Any explanation on why a particular item/brand would be great. Thanks in advance for any info/input you can provide. Additional info: I've used only Minwax polyurethane, Minwax Spar, Minwax pre conditioner, Watco Danish Oil, and Zinser Sealcoat. This is my second year of wood working but I just recently started with hardwoods rather than pine from the box stores. I've read so many books/posts/etc on finishes that I'm in information overload, and just looking for some solid basic brands/items to keep in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 At $100 limit my list would like Gallon of ARS satin, $46 a few mason jars for breaking up the gallon jug, $8 box of lint free rags $22 Mineral spirits $11 0000 steel wool $4 Pack of acid brushes $1.50 Pack of 500 gr sand paper $5 Spray water bottle $2 I get a lot of my finishing stuff from walmart. Pretty much only the actual finish I get from amazon. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 All finishes do have a shelf life and min/max storage temperatures. I find it best to order what I need rather than store it on my shelves because of those reasons. That said I always have shellac available. I also bought up the last stocks of ArS before it got taken off the market in Europe. Only got a few cans left now. If you can still buy it where you are ArS is a great choice. General Finishes make a lot of great waterbourne finishes now like Enduro Var that seem to keep well so that would be my recommendation. With all finishes buy it as you need it though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 -Wipe on poly (satin) - GF high performance poly - 2" foam brushes - 1 taklon brush (2" or so) - winwax paste wax - 0000 steel wool - white 3M pad - Rags are free (old t shirts) - 6 pack of Newcastle brown draft 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Pug, do you reuse foam brushes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 On Brendon's suggestion on the 1 gal. Of ARS, do break it down like he says as it will harden over in no time in the 1 gal. can. Or you can top it off with Argon or CO2 before putting the lid back on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 What is ArS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 The sound a pirate makes! Actually it's Arm-R-Seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeingFrank Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Thanks for all the input. Sounds like Arm r Seal is as popular as I thought. I may make a drive to grab some items tomorrow as suggested above. Also good to know about breaking the larger amounts down. I'd have not thought of that till it was too late. Would you all say General Finish is superior to Minwax or Varathane brands for most items? Also, I notice the can says it's a wiping on formula. Does that mean it takes more coats than say minwax polyurethane I have brushed on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 57 minutes ago, K Cooper said: The sound a pirate makes! Actually it's Arm-R-Seal. I figured as much but wasn't sure. I love the stuff but end up throwing half of it away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 2 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: I figured as much but wasn't sure. I love the stuff but end up throwing half of it away. Again, top it off with an inert gas such as Argon or CO2 and you'll make it to the bottom of the can. 12 minutes ago, BeingFrank said: Thanks for all the input. Sounds like Arm r Seal is as popular as I thought. I may make a drive to grab some items tomorrow as suggested above. Also good to know about breaking the larger amounts down. I'd have not thought of that till it was too late. Would you all say General Finish is superior to Minwax or Varathane brands for most items? Also, I notice the can says it's a wiping on formula. Does that mean it takes more coats than say minwax polyurethane I have brushed on? I don't think I've ever wiped it on. At the suggestion of others, I've used a foam brush with great results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 My choices, from what is locally available: Bullzeye shellac + denatured alcohol. Rattle can spray lacquer. Minwax gloss poly + mineral spirits. Watco natural danish oil. Clean cotton rags, many. If I feel particularly traditional, I might grab some BLO, but it smells bad, takes forever to dry, and doesn't protect from much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 32 minutes ago, BeingFrank said: Thanks for all the input. Sounds like Arm r Seal is as popular as I thought. I may make a drive to grab some items tomorrow as suggested above. Also good to know about breaking the larger amounts down. I'd have not thought of that till it was too late. Would you all say General Finish is superior to Minwax or Varathane brands for most items? Also, I notice the can says it's a wiping on formula. Does that mean it takes more coats than say minwax polyurethane I have brushed on? No need to make a drive to get it, order it delivered.. That's what I do.. I too get it in smaller quantities because of the shelf life. A lot of people use and like the Minwax option but, it has to be thinned to work like ARS. Personally, I prefer the ARS Being a wipe on, it doesn't go on as thick but, that doesn't mean that you have to apply more coats. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 2 hours ago, Brendon_t said: Pug, do you reuse foam brushes? Nope - they are disposable. I use two for every project with Wipe on Poly (first two coats), and don't use them for any other finishing task. 38 minutes ago, TIODS said: No need to make a drive to get it, order it delivered.. That's what I do.. I too get it in smaller quantities because of the shelf life. A lot of people use and like the Minwax option but, it has to be thinned to work like ARS. Personally, I prefer the ARS Being a wipe on, it doesn't go on as thick but, that doesn't mean that you have to apply more coats. I have used both ARS and Minwax Wipe On, and I didn't really notice a major difference in the viscosity. I prefer the winmax, but the ARS is certainly a good product. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 1 quart ARS satin 1 quart Valspar ultra fast drying water based satin poly 1 quart danish oil 1 quart of boiled linseed oil 1 quart of shellac 1 gallon of mineral spirits 1 gallon of naphtha 1 tub of Renaissance Wax Box of cotton rags 1 box of gloves 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeingFrank Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Thanks again for the suggestions guys. I obviously have a lot to learn/read up on as far as the uses of naphtha, and a whole lot of other commonly used chemicals for finishing. Starting from scratch on all this info is a steep learning curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 49 minutes ago, Tom Cancelleri said: 1 quart ARS satin 1 quart Valspar ultra fast drying water based satin poly 1 quart danish oil 1 quart of boiled linseed oil 1 quart of shellac 1 gallon of mineral spirits 1 gallon of naphtha 1 tub of Renaissance Wax Box of cotton rags 1 box of gloves I surmise you broke the $100 limit with absolutely no numbers to back that up * ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Don't forget some vinegar, steel wool, and industrial ammonia! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 8 hours ago, Tom Cancelleri said: 1 quart ARS satin - $16.99 1 quart Valspar ultra fast drying water based satin poly - $11.99 1 quart danish oil - $13.49 1 quart of boiled linseed oil - $7.98 (It's less than half price at home depot vs Rockler) 1 quart of shellac - $ 10.99 1 gallon of mineral spirits - $9.86 1 quart of naphtha - $10.99 1 tub of Renaissance Wax - $16.99 Box of cotton rags - $8 1 box of gloves - $8 Total.... $115.28 If you don't want the most awesome wax out there you're sub $100 also, these are average prices, some places have things cheaper. Like Walmart for naphtha, mineral spirits, gloves, BLO. Shop around, the internet is a great resource. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 3 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Don't forget some vinegar, steel wool, and industrial ammonia! ? Ross, What would these be used for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Ken, check Rob's ( ) for a thread on ammonia fuming/tenting. The acid/steel wool is the iron acetate staining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 $24.03 - Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner. $.05 - Envelope to store your $75.92 left over. Read it first, cover to cover. Then decide how to spend the $75.92. There are two benefits two reading that book. 1) You will quickly understand the differences between major finishes and get a feel for what excites you. 2) You will save your self loads of time asking simple questions on forums only to get bad advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 2 hours ago, Mike. said: $24.03 - Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner. $.05 - Envelop to store your $75.92 left over. Your envelops are expensive. Is that book better than the finish guide that marc sells? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 6 minutes ago, Chestnut said: Your envelops are expensive. Is that book better than the finish guide that marc sells? I don't have Marc's book so can't say for certain. The Flexner book and another by Jeff Jewitt are considered the primary, source material for all finishing books that came after. I know Marc regularly cites both of them on the podcast so I'd be inclined to go with the source book. Marc's books is probably simplified and more geared to the hobby woodworker (his core audience) whereas Flexner will cover spray finishing, pore filling, dyes, glazes, toners, 2 part finishes, etc all in more detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Don't forget some vinegar, steel wool, and industrial ammonia! ? Ross, What would these be used for? See Carus' reply above ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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