Noob needing advice


RxNolan

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Friend and I are wanting to get into woodworking and plan on starting a project tomorrow. Planning on doing a table and from everything we have read mortise and tenon is the way to go to connect the 6' table top lengthwise. Little timid to try it being our first project so we were thinking of using dowels. Is that a good decision and is there a rule of thumb of how many dowels to use per feet/by weight, what size to use, and the depth the dowels should be?

I'm sure these are basic questions to most, but we were confused and wanted to do it the best way possible. Thanks in advance.

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1 minute ago, RxNolan said:

We do not have a dowel jig. Would lining up the dowels with a drill be to difficult?

Without a jig?  Yeah, impossible.

Like Brendon said, watch some M&T videos on youtube.  If you have a table saw and a router, you can make M&T.  If you don't have a table saw and router, you have some tools to buy first.

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Just now, Mike. said:

Just glue on the edge is all you need, as long as the edges are perfectly flat.

This is a good video on the subject.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/3-steps-to-great-glue-ups-edge-joints.aspx.aspx

This ^  Just make sure your TS blade is a perfect 90 degrees and you should have no trouble.

And make sure you have enough clamps, of course :D

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8 minutes ago, RxNolan said:

What is the best way?

Edge gluing for making a solid tabletop, mortise and tenon for joining aprons to legs. Some folks will use a biscuit jointer or Festool domino for helping align boards for the tabletop glue up from shifting during clamping process, but do not consider this is a requirement for starting out.

Then it is a matter of securing the top to the aprons/legs. This is where those whole "wood movement" rules come into play. I have seen some of those "L" shaped clip/brackets that you screw into the underside of the top and then secure that to the inside of the apron.

http://www.rockler.com/table-top-fasteners

http://www.rockler.com/desk-top-fasteners

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One problem I see is the 2x4's at my local stores, even though they're kiln dried, still have a lot of moisture in them.  So if you go buy them, glue them up right away, the top might be flat for now but not for long.  I bought some awhile back, put them in my garage, one looked like a cork screw after a couple weeks.

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I'd say go pine 2 by material might be overkill and in my opinion could make learning a bit more challenging. the 1 by pine around here is usually nice and dry and I've built a lot out of it just for junk furniture / learning. I have a lot of tables that I've made out of 1 x 6s and they are still standing.

Another suggestion if you have a table saw and are going to cut wood any way. Grab 2x8s and rip them generally 2x8 8' long don't move through stores as fast are a different wood better quality and have a lot lower moisture content.

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You can do a lot with a TS and router.  Definitely watch some videos.  I'm not sure how familiar you are with your equipment, but maybe build a couple jigs, cross cut sled, etc. to get a feel for the tools.  And pine 1x, as Chestnut mentioned, is a good way to go.  You're going to make mistakes, and pine is cheap.

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Meh, hate to be contrary but construction pine from the home center is garbage.  That stuff is for building houses.  Go to a hardwood dealer and get some poplar or alder if you're worried about spending money.  It'll be much more cooperative to work with and you'll have a higher quality piece when you're done.  Also remember that the cost of materials almost always pales in comparison to the amount of labor you put into building something.  So spend the money on nice materials.  You'll regret building something out of junk once it's done.  You'll stand back and say, "That's not bad...think how cool it would be if we would have used REAL wood."

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