wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I'm making a chess board, maple/walnut squares about 5/16" thick, glued to a 1/4" luan ply substrate. It is turning all pringles shaped. Short of building a box under it, does anyone have a suggestion to help keep it flat? Note that I have not added any border or frame yet, its just a bare board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted February 13, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Glue 5/16 to the other side . It's called balanced construction. Plywood always has an odd number of layers for the same reason. Your 5/16 pieces added to the 1/4 ply is unbalanced. The back pieces could cheaper or uglier wood but try to use something with similar hardness. Don't back maple & walnut with basswood ! 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Pringles shape, that's funny. Not really, huh? I would bet that some sort hardwood frame below the ply would be in order. Being 5/16 thick, I would guess the squares are not end grain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks Steve, that's probably what I'll have to do. Think some red oak would work? I have a bunch I'd like to use up... Ken, you are correct, no end grain. Didn't have enough maple on hand for it, or I would have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Steve, should it be the same amount of pieces as the good side, or just as long as it's covered with the same thickness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Same thickness and probably the same grain orientation . Red oak should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Cool. I know I've seen you mention this dozens of times. I guess knowledge != experience sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Best and hardest way to learn is to make mistakes. After you struggle to fix the mistake you damn sure won't make that error again ! That's why I try to include the reason for a method I am recommending. If your upper layer was thinner and the base board was thicker it might not have cupped as bad. A strong frame might have been enough to keep it flat. Possibly you could run a rabbet around the layer you add to the underside to make adding a frame easier. But did you make the outer squares oversized so they could be put into a groove in the frame ? Your board will move some with the change of the seasons & humidity so adding a mitered frame around the outside of the board might not work well. Floating in a groove with some room for expansion is a better method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 No, Steve, this thing is basically a sheet. Kinda making it up as I go along. Not sure what kind of frame / border to do yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 A couple of pictures would really help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I'll try to gey a snapshot later, to show the construction and how much warp there is. I actually made some pics to do a journal, but none in its current state. Planned to upload only after SUCCESSFUL completion! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Here are a couple of snapshots: This one shows how much it rocks up when I press the opposite side flat. This give you any different ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 You might be able to get away with 1/4 to 5/16 thick oak ( like you mentioned) glued to the bottom in the same direction as the chess board grain. For a frame to hide the ply edge you could use a end grain strip at each end and long grain down both sides. A simple butt joint at the corners would leave the ends showing all end grain and the frame would expand and contract with the chess board. Glue up the width of end grain needed from 3 - 4" lengths and profile ( if you don't want a square edged frame) then sand the end grain on both ends until it's almost perfect. Then you can rip the cross grain trim off both ends with out fear of breaking it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post treeslayer Posted February 14, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 hey ross, i don't know if this will help but this is a checkerboard i made out of walnut, oak and cherry this spring. its 3/4 thick with a 1" band of walnut and cherry around it, mitered the corners and have not had an issue with it (yet) it did have a very slight twist before i put the edge around it and its stayed flat so far 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Great job Dave! Checker box and all! Does the lid hinge? Ross, this might be your answer, but I like Steve's idea as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Nice set, Dave! Thanks for the photo. Steve, if I just laminate this to a 1/2" piece of ply, do you think the imbalance will pull it out of flat, or do I really need to use solid wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I would use solid wood but adding the 1/2" ply could possibly work. I personally wouldn't take the chance. If you have a scrap of 3/4" Baltic that might hold it flat. Key word is "might " 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 steve's idea i think is the best for the situation you've got ross, good advise. coop, the lid is held in place with rare earth magnets in the lid and a couple of screws in the box for them to stick to, the grandkids are getting good at checkers, the are beating me on a regular basis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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