twodeuce Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I have a tricked out router table. Cast iron top, Incra fence, PC 3 hp router...but I have never used a shaper before. I have used the RT for over 5 years, but never been completely satisfied with the cuts I get on moulding and profiles. I use sharp whiteside or infinity router bits 1/2 shank almost always. My point is, I feel I have maxed out what I can do with the router table for profiles and such (obviously over the top cuts are no go with shaper). So 2 part question, 1. Do shaper cutters with 3/4" bores give a noticeably better surface than router bits? 2. I'm not opposed to going bigger to 1 1/4" bore...is the difference significant over 3/4"? If not, I could save $ and stay with the smaller shaper. I appreciate opinions on the matter. If I do go with a shaper, I will keep my router table. Also weighing between the grizzly 3 hp and their 5 hp models (with the predominantly 3/4 and 11/4 bore respectively). Would also welcome opinions on those machines as well (from current or former owners). I know many aren't grizzly fans, but I am. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 We need to channel the spirit of don - the shaper master! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 3/4" is the minimum realistic shaper spindle. They make 1/2" ones but they are not any better than a router table. A lot of the cut quaility comes from using a power feeder and careful set up. You can get better results from your router table if you don't take off too much material in one pass. Or you can make one very light final pass to clean up the surface to the exact final dimension you desire. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodeuce Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 3 hours ago, wdwerker said: 3/4" is the minimum realistic shaper spindle. They make 1/2" ones but they are not any better than a router table. A lot of the cut quaility comes from using a power feeder and careful set up. You can get better results from your router table if you don't take off too much material in one pass. Or you can make one very light final pass to clean up the surface to the exact final dimension you desire. Thank you. I feel I do most of that. Could always be better I'm sure...and I had thought of getting a power feeder. Good call there. I was more thinking of the larger bits and better entry angles larger bits would give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted February 13, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I'll deploy the Don-Signal... I saw "The Shaper Book" at the woodworking show today and thought of Don immediately. I miss Don. I can't believe I miss Don. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew-in-austin Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Just about all the professionals I have listened to have always used a power feeder with a shaper. I would love to own a shaper, but I have kind of decided that I wont take that plunge unless I can get it with a power feeder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Power feeders don't necessarily come with shapers. You buy one and drill a few holes in the cast iron top and bolt it down. Most have forward and reverse and gears that can be changed for different speeds, or variable speed for $$$. I built a router table to cut 1/4 grooves for drawer bottoms and cabinet backs and set it up with a power feeder . It was sold by Delta but made in Italy and just re badged Delta. It's only a 1/4 or 1/3 hp but it has done the job for over 20 years. I even mounted it on my UniSaw when I had to rip a massive amount of strips to the same size. Just used the slower speeds and it didn't bog the saw down. I have heard of people using a power feeder to climb cut on a shaper but I haven't tried it, (Yet) Good urethane wheels are important. I had to replace my original rubber ones due to slipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew-in-austin Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Sorry, I should have clarified they don't come new with feeders, but often you can find them for sale used with a feeder, which sometimes works out to be a really good deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I don't have a lot of experience with shapers, so this could be a mute point. We use a older SCMI single arbor shaper, whatever the reasons, it doesn't do the greatest job. The lead guy on the floor, essentially my boss, hates that machine. I guess he's use to using one of those high end Martin shapers. We have this, basically. He thinks this would be a better choice for running molding. So I guess it's an open-ended question. Would this be a better machine for running molding as opposed to a single spindle shaper if you already had a router table? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 This depends on what you call molding. The machine pictured excels at casings,crowns, and other single sided trim where you are primarily milling the face. It won't help you cope sticks and does poorly at milling more than one face at a time. This is just assessment of the design geometry of a super small spindle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I don't have a lot of experience with shapers, so this could be a mute point. We use a older SCMI single arbor shaper, whatever the reasons, it doesn't do the greatest job. The lead guy on the floor, essentially my boss, hates that machine. I guess he's use to using one of those high end Martin shapers. We have this, basically. He thinks this would be a better choice for running molding. So I guess it's an open-ended question. Would this be a better machine for running molding as opposed to a single spindle shaper if you already had a router table? If you want to mill baseboard, casing, crown etc I think the williams and hussey is an awesome choice. The other options i know of out there would be the shopfox or the woodmaster. When i went to school we had a w&h and i thought it was really sweet. Im sure i will end up with one one day. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 33 minutes ago, shaneymack said: If you want to mill baseboard, casing, crown etc I think the williams and hussey is an awesome choice. The other options i know of out there would be the shopfox or the woodmaster. When i went to school we had a w&h and i thought it was really sweet. Im sure i will end up with one one day. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Looks like a good machine, shame we don't ever use it. Seen it run on YouTube..twice. What sells me on it is its small footprint. I might see if the boss would it sell it to me, although my shop could be on Hoarders, the woodworking version, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDave Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Here's and interesting one near me... http://richmond.craigslist.org/tls/5413595038.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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