How best to use 10/4 and 6/4 lumber for roubo


nerdbot

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I'm planning on picking up my lumber for my roubo build this week, and I found one place with a good price on 6/4 beech and another place with 10/4 beech.  Both places only have about 100 board feet each, so I figure between the two places I should be able to get what I need for the build.  In my head, laminating the 10/4 and 6/4 for the legs should be the same as two 8/4 pieces for the legs, and then as much of the 10/4 pieces for the top as possible.  Or is there a better strategy?

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The strategy you laid out is where I would go with one exception.  Keep in mind the thickness needed for the long rails,  top and bottom side stretchers, front laminate strip and dog hole strip cannot be achieved with 6/4 lumber so you'll need to set aside your 10/4 for those parts. 

Once you have all of your stock, go through with a wax marker and the plans and try to designate your parts and what parts will laminate for what part first rather than grabbing whatever and shorting yourself in the end. 

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To be honest, you'd have to be saving a lot of $$ to mix stock like that... It's going to cost you a good deal of time, so how much is your time worth?

If the dealer can get 100bf of 10/4, then he should able able to source 160bf and you're done... Or make the top, chop and deadman from the 100bf 10/4 and source 80bf a contrasting species in 8/4 for the base.

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My local dealer had a hodge podge of hard maple in stock. I sat there looking at it for a half hour trying to figure out ...If i cut this and then do that and resaw this...

And then he said, I can order you what you want and have it here in 3 days. I'm so glad I went that route. 21 boards, 5" wide 8' long 8/4. Done. No headaches, no waste, no hastle.

10 minutes ago, hhh said:

... Or make the top, chop and deadman from the 100bf 10/4

Good thought, but still a ton of waste. Dog hole strip, front lam...get ready to resaw away wood you paid for and will likely never use because it will be to thin.

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==> but still a ton of waste.

In my shop, time is more important than high-waste in a couple sticks... If he's really getting a good deal on the stock, so he kills a stick or two?

Further, the 100bf 10/4 will probably all be from one lot, so it'll all look the same... Sourcing stock across lots will probably lead to color, grain, etc issues. It's rather waste stock and have a color match and source a different species for the base.

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1 hour ago, hhh said:

To be honest, you'd have to be saving a lot of $$ to mix stock like that... It's going to cost you a good deal of time, so how much is your time worth?

If the dealer can get 100bf of 10/4, then he should able able to source 160bf and you're done... Or make the top, chop and deadman from the 100bf 10/4 and source 80bf a contrasting species in 8/4 for the base.

Hhh, the price difference is pretty significant for me - $5.25 BF for 8/4 beech local to me vs average $3.60 BF up in Phoenix.  I don't see a difference timewise in the glue-up, two 8/4s vs a 10/4 and 6/4.  But, I do see that it does complicate how I figure out how much to buy from each place.  I could conceivably end up having to buy way more BF (to make things work) at a lower price from the two places, than buying closer to what I actually need BF-wise at a higher price. I asked both places up in Phoenix if they were planning on getting any more beech and they said they didn't have any orders for more currently, and for me to order more would require orders in units of 1000 BF.  Woodworkers Source, my local supplier only has about 60 BF of 8/4 beech, but they have 1600 BF at their Phoenix location.

I was planning on making just the 4 lower rails that holds the shelf out of walnut as an accent, since I already have a nice piece of 12/4 walnut for my end cap.  I suppose making the legs out of walnut is an option, but that would be pushing my budget and I'd never ever want to use my pretty pretty bench...

Another option would be to get the 10/4 beech (for the top, chop, deadmain) and 8/4 walnut (for the rails) from Phoenix and then fill out the rest from my local supplier (legs, etc).  I think this is probably what I'll end up doing.

Thanks for the feedback guys, it really helped me think it through!

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4 minutes ago, Brendon_t said:

Bro, you can't worry about the local price then be talking about switching the parts out with walnut... Walnut will be at least two times the price. 

Haha, I said it was an option, I didn't say I was going to do it :)  The lower rails in walnut were always part of the plan, and that's only about 15 BF at most, by my estimation.

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Well, just like they say it pays to be friendly with your local butcher, it also pays to be friendly with your local wood supplier.  Long story short, they're putting a bunch of 8/4 beech on their next order for me to pick through, it'll only cost me $50 more than my original plan, and I saved myself half a work day of driving.  I may still grab a 10/4 board on my next trip up there for the chop.

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Without a doubt, will do, Janello.  Brendan_t, that's a good point.  When I was up there last (but ill-prepared to bring back any wood) I don't recall seeing any boards that were wider than 5-6", so I'd have to glue up the 10/4 for width as well.  I'll probably pass on the 10/4 then.  What do most people do who can't get 12/4 for the chop?  8/4 and 4/4?  Or two 8/4 with more milling?

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11 hours ago, nerdbot said:

What do most people do who can't get 12/4 for the chop?  8/4 and 4/4?  Or two 8/4 with more milling?

Doesn't really matter, as long as you final out at the right thickness. Most people going traditional shape only need 5 1/8 wide then add wings. 

Just keep in mind if you add the 45 degree bevel at the top you may want to keep the seem behind it so it's not visible on the bevel. IE: Show face thicker.

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