Refinishing, stain problem, need help please

[Janet B]

Refinishing kitchen table....Can I rectify my stain problem by using a wipe on shellac directly over the dry General Finishes Java Gel Stain (I have not put top coat on yet and stain has dried for 48 hours).

Chain of events: Brought the unstripped leaf to local Ethan Allen store first, (where I bought kitchen table 14 yrs ago) refinisher thought it was solid wood.  He also guessed it was maple or mahogany (it was very blonde once stripped, didn't look or feel like pine so my GUESS was maple). Because I didn't know for sure and had to work inside house, I stripped it with Citristrip (4 attempts later it worked).  Let dry for 24 hours.  Cleaned w/ mineral spirits, sit 24 hours, then sanded with 100 grit by hand, then wiped with tack cloth.  Applied 1-2 coats of Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner.  48 hours later got the guts to apply stain.  I used General Finishes Java Gel Stain (even though I was told not to mix Minwax products w/ GF products). 

I've done 4 coats of Java and continue to have blotches and cloudy spots.  Love the Java, I still see grain which I like, doing the wipe on and wipe off method.  I admit I put an additional coat on before letting sit for hours once out of the 4 coats.  

Being the Java has dried for 48 hours (no top coat yet) can I apply wipe on Shellac and then let dry and start staining again hoping I won't get blotches and cloudiness? 

The thought of stripping off 4 layers of Java doesn't sound fun or productive, nor do I know how or what product to use, mineral spirits?  

I don't have a problem buying more stain, it's the time lost I'm concerned about.  

Any/all suggestions sure would be appreciated. 

Thank you. 

Edited March 12, 2016 by Janet B
Added type of wood

[Guest]

the picture looks fine to me.  I don't see the problem 

[Janet B]

Is that normal to have the cloudy spots at table end?  I'll attempt to add one more photo.  In the sunlight the table is very blotchy.  Maybe I'm being too picky.  Can I apply wipe on shellac over dry Java gel (no top coat on yet) and start staining again w/ Java 

Here's one more photo

[Guest]

I do see it is darker near the ends.  Either:

1) you did not apply as much pre-stain conditioner there, which allowed more stain to penetrate.  Pre stain conditioners work by partially sealing the wood.  They are designed to make stain penetrate more evenly but if you put it on too heavy or unevenly it will result in even staining. 

2) you sanded unevenly.  If you sanded the end more it will take more stain. 

3) you applied more stain at the end.  

You could try wiping the darker areas with mineral spirits, it will remove some of the color.   Then apply another coat of gel stain to see if you can even it out. 

 

 

[Janet B]

Can I apply shellac directly over the Java gel (no top coat on yet) and then start staining again for a more a better coverage? 

[Guest]

Yes you can put stain over shellac.  However I don't see how it will solve your problem.   The shellac will prevent the stain from penetrating so you will get very little to no color.   That technique is called glazing and it works well for woods like oak or ash that have open pores.  The stain will lodge into the pores and come right off the smooth parts.   Your table looks to be a closed pore wood like maple, meaning a glaze (stain over shellac) will do little to nothing.  

Refinishers would probably use a toner at this point.  A toner is a tinted top coat and can help even out color variations.  That is beyond the scope of most DIY capabilities because toners are best sprayed.   Mohawk makes aerosal cans of toner but I'd be reluctant to use it on such a large surface.