ARS Sheen

[Alan G]

I refinished two old walnut side tables for my father and put 4 coats of Arm R Seal satin. As the finish began to build it started to take on a plasticy (that's a word right?) look.

For those of you who use Arm R Seal, or other applicable (Waterlox) finishes....

Do you lay down a few coats of gloss first to preserve clarity and then put a final coat or two of the desired sheen on last? 

What is your method to keep a clear finish when the desired sheen is NOT gloss. Especially on a dark colored wood.

thanks in advance!

[estesbubba]

ARS is poly and building it too thick will look plasticy. Waterlox uses phenolic resin and doesn't look as plasticy IMO. Some people say to build with gloss others say to use satin for all coats. 

Look for @Eric. 's projects as he uses ARS satin for all coats and they aren't plasticy or cloudy. Follow his steps as he has that finish nailed. 

[AceHoleInOne]

I don't get where guys get the notion you start with gloss and finish with a satin. Drives me bat crap crazy. Just use satin finish all the way through.

Ok to your question, what is happening, your finish is building more than the look you want and should of stopped at 3 coats. Did you scuff the finish between coats? Did you thin the finish or applied straight from the can?

I use ARS straight from the can and "TYPICALLY" no more than 3 coats.

 

-Ace-

[Alan G]

I thought that I had read it here with doing gloss then your desired sheen level.

i had just applied right out of the can, scuffed between coats but maybe in an effort to protect the top more the 4 th coat was to much. 

I was following @Eric blanket chest build and read he used satin and then thinned the top coat 50/50 and then polished. 

@Ericwhat is cutting the top coat doing for you? Drying faster? Laying flat easier? ARS is already pretty thin. What sheen did those chests end up with? Still a satin after polishing?   

[Eric.]

39 minutes ago, Alan G said:

@Ericwhat is cutting the top coat doing for you? Drying faster? Laying flat easier? ARS is already pretty thin. What sheen did those chests end up with? Still a satin after polishing?   

Yes, both.  It dries faster so there's less time to gather dust nibs.  And it levels easily so there's less risk of thick drips and runs, and requires less wiping to achieve a nice consistent coat which means less risk of streaking.

I polish with either a 1000 or 2000 grit Platin pad, lubricated with 50/50 mineral spirits/mineral oil.  I prefer 1000 on open-pored woods and 2000 on closed-pored.  They both do the same thing in the end, which is smooth the finish, but the 1000 gets you there faster...it can be a bit more time consuming polishing with 2000.  I feel like 1000 may knock down the sheen just a tiny tiny bit, maybe.  2000 doesn't seem to change sheen at all.  You have to be careful with 1000 and make sure that you're always polishing with the grain, because you can introduce very light scratches if you don't.  I wish they made Platin in 1500.  Either way, certainly neither grit makes the sheen more glossy.

I've heard the argument about losing clarity using satin through all coats...but I've never experienced it.  I think it's kind of a finishing straw man.  IMO

[Alan G]

19 minutes ago, Eric. said:

Yes, both.  It dries faster so there's less time to gather dust nibs.  And it levels easily so there's less risk of thick drips and runs, and requires less wiping to achieve a nice consistent coat which means less risk of streaking.

I polish with either a 1000 or 2000 grit Platin pad, lubricated with 50/50 mineral spirits/mineral oil.

Thanks @Eric I really appreciate it. I will have to give that a try on the next project that presents itself.

I will have to hone my skills for a bit before I post a project up here. You guys do some amazing work!

[Pondhockey]

Here's a somewhat related question:  I used too many coats of poly while trying to match a color with interleaved stain.  The final project came out like glass (even though using satin finish.)

I tried buffing lightly with 0000 steel wool in an inconspicuous place; but that just seams to leave scratches.

Would the 1000 grit Platin pad do better, or is there another approach (wipe/rub with solvent?)

[Pondhockey]

Thanks, Mike; that was new information to me.

The project is a medium size butcher block bench; very manageable.  I'll probably try both your suggestions on the under side.

[Eric.]

21 minutes ago, Mike. said:

I think Eric rubs to make it feel good rather than to change the sheen.  

Correct.  Also poly is not great for rubbing out because it's not hard like shellac or lacquer, which is more traditionally rubbed-out.  Think of trying to polish a gummy bear.

[Pondhockey]

Thanks to both for all the tips.  Update:  I found that I had botched the finish on one of the sides that had been out of sight where the bench was placed (this project was hurried in the first place.)  The side had drip marks and an uneven finish.

- I used 0000 steel wool to take out the drip marks (it took out a lot of the finish and coloring, too.)

- wiped clean, cleaned with turpentine (I didn't have mineral spirits), and touched up the color.

- Shook the wipe on satin poly quite a bit, applied, wiped on a thin coat.  

It looks much better.  Top is still it's glassy self.