Uneven shavings with shoulder plane?

[Cliff]

I am getting uneven shavings with my shoulder plane. To be more specific, on the lightest setting, I'm getting none on one side. 

Here is a pic of the blade:

I checked out LV's site and it says the following:

If the shaving is not of uniform thickness across its width, you will have to reshape your blade so that it is parallel to the sole of the plane (which should also be exactly 90° to the blade side). To do this, first scribe a line behind the blade's edge, along the bed lip for reference, grind to this line, then hone for sharpness.

Has anyone done this? I don't even have a grinder and this really feels like something I shouldn't be doing. 

[ChrisG-Canada]

Why not just adjust the blade so it's parallel with the opening?  Loosen the blade, move the rear adjuster left or right and re-tighten the blade...

Am I missing something?

[Coop]

3 minutes ago, ChrisG-Canada said:

Why not just adjust the blade so it's parallel with the opening?  Loosen the blade, move the rear adjuster left or right and re-tighten the blade...

Am I missing something?

+1

[Cliff]

2 minutes ago, ChrisG-Canada said:

 

Am I missing something?

More importantly, am I? I wasn't aware that thing moves the blade like the thing on the back of my smoothing plane does. That's why I went to the LV site to see how to resolve this and it doesn't say anything about that. Just says to grind it parallel. It calls that a depth adjustment knob and nothing else. 

 

[wtnhighlander]

Never done it exactly like that, but reshaping isn't too tough. Have a coarse diamond plate? If not, grab the $10 set from HF, it will get you through this.

With the blade out of the plane, color the back with a sharpie. Just do 1/4" or so at the edge. Now install the blade, and adjust it to protrude slightly past the sole. Use a sharp point of sonething that will lie flat on the sole (another plane plade, or a chisel) to scribe a line in the sharpie, which will parallel the sole. Remive the blade, put it in a honing jig, and work it over the diamond plate to reach the line. This may require a touch of freehand, or adjusting the jig, but hitting the line should make the edge match the mouth of the plane. Now proceed to sharpen the blade normally. A swipe of sharpie in the bevel will let you see exactly where the stone is cutting, after just a stroke or two. That will help you adjust the guide so as to stay on the line you have established.

[Cliff]

7 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

Never done it exactly like that, but reshaping isn't too tough. Have a coarse diamond plate? If not, grab the $10 set from HF, it will get you through this.

With the blade out of the plane, color the back with a sharpie. Just do 1/4" or so at the edge. Now install the blade, and adjust it to protrude slightly past the sole. Use a sharp point of sonething that will lie flat on the sole (another plane plade, or a chisel) to scribe a line in the sharpie, which will parallel the sole. Remive the blade, put it in a honing jig, and work it over the diamond plate to reach the line. This may require a touch of freehand, or adjusting the jig, but hitting the line should make the edge match the mouth of the plane. Now proceed to sharpen the blade normally. A swipe of sharpie in the bevel will let you see exactly where the stone is cutting, after just a stroke or two. That will help you adjust the guide so as to stay on the line you have established.

Wow you made that sound a ton easier than I thought it would be. 

 

[wtnhighlander]

But I also assumed the blade is registered against the side somehow. If it is side adjustable, I agree with the comments above.

[Cliff]

I'll try adjusting it tomorrow. I pushed on it a little earlier, but it's one of those things.. maybe you force it when you shouldn't and break something. I also just discovered what the set screws are for from the LV page. I kind of just unpacked the thing and started using it. 

[Coop]

Cliff, isn't the depth adjustment knob, also the lateral adjustment? I don't have a shoulder plane but I can't believe your blade is that out of square unless you've already had it on a grinding wheel which I doubt?

[gee-dub]

Yep. Norris type adjuster. On a Lee Valley plane this works in concert with the set screws so play with that a bit and get a feel for how these features interact.

[shaneymack]

Cliff, I'm sure the blade is fine. When you are dialing in your depth of cut you should always look to see where the shavings are being ejected. Its a couple swipes and a couple seconds to resolve. Take a pass, check it, adjust. Repeat untill shaving is coming out centered. Same process for your smoother.

DO NOT start grinding that edge untill you've made absolutely sure it's not just a small lateral adjustment which I'm sure it is.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Edit: and once you have it where you want it, snug up the set screws...

[Cliff]

Right on. Thanks guys. 

Now that I know all of these things should be a ton easier than trying to adjust stuff by hand. 

Might help if I RTFM?!@

[sjk]

I have that same plane - you probably need to adjust the set screws on the side.  As @gee-dub says, those set screws and the Norris-style depth adjuster let you fiddle the angle slightly.  Note - the set screws also adjust the side-to-side placement of the blade, so you can have it be flush to an edge, protrude slightly, or whatever you need.

When I first got mine, I had to fiddle the set screws and now it works great.  I would not regrind your blade unless you've already done all you can do with the set screws and depth adjuster.

[derekcohen]

3 hours ago, sjk said:

I have that same plane - you probably need to adjust the set screws on the side.  As @gee-dub says, those set screws and the Norris-style depth adjuster let you fiddle the angle slightly.  Note - the set screws also adjust the side-to-side placement of the blade, so you can have it be flush to an edge, protrude slightly, or whatever you need.

When I first got mine, I had to fiddle the set screws and now it works great.  I would not regrind your blade unless you've already done all you can do with the set screws and depth adjuster.

YES!

Don't grind the blade until you have adjusted the blade to the opening. I very much doubt that there is a need to do so. You will just screw it up if you persist down this path.

Planes do not come ready-to-use out of the box. You do have to set them up. With LV and LN there is the least to set up, but still user adjustments to make. 

Note that there are 2 set screws on each side. They need to be adjusted in pairs on each side (just touching the blade with the bevel square in the mouth and with the blade a smidgeon over the side of the body - that is to ensure that the blade cuts into the corner of the wall. If you do not, you will instead cut a tapering wall) . Do one side, and then lightly tighten the other against the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[RichardA]

Since you can't trust a picture, I'll say this.... It appears as though one side of your blade is more open than the other side.... get them even, and your problem should be solved!