Blade for frame corner splines and rabbets

[Ronn W]

I need a 10" TS blade with flat teeth and 1/8" kerf for cutting rabbets and corner splines for picture frames.  Does not need to be super expensive.  I found a Freud 24T rip blade (LM72M010) for about $50 but I am concerned that the cut will be too coarse or that I will get some exit tear out with only 24 teeth.  Is this a concern? 

What other blade would you recommend?

 

Edited May 11, 2016 by Ronn W
spelling

[Brendon_t]

Yes, I would not use such a low tooth count.  I normally cut splines with a  Dado blade as the combined inner and outer  blades come to a flat ground bottom.  For a thinner spline,  Any 50t blade with flat ground teeth  should be fine.

[Ronn W]

Clarification: when it comes to splines I want to cut them in 1 pass - 1/8"

[Brendon_t]

After thinking about it a bit more,  I don't know why a 24t blade with flat ground teeth wouldn't work.

[wdwerker]

Backing up the cut is more important with coarser blades. Tape or being held down tightly to wood backing up the cut.

[wtnhighlander]

Slower feed rate should help to keep the cut smooth as well, I believe.

[gee-dub]

Interestingly enough I have a 50 tooth blade made for such things.  I used to use a 24 tooth FTG blade and it was OK but, I wanted something that left a more finished cut.

Full kerf blades are not necessarily 1/8" so that may limit you outside of a custom blade, which is what I have.    All my blades are 1/8" kerf as I find this makes things a bit more versatile when using jigs since my calibration remains consistent with blade changes. 

I use Carbide Processors but, many makers will supply a custom width for you.  There may be ready-made blades out there that will fit your need and a call or email to the maker would speed things along.  If you want one made for you the price of admission is about $100. 

[Coop]

I us a Freaud 24T flat ground and it works fine.

[Ronn W]

As usual I really appreciate all the feedback.  I have decided to go with the Freud Heavy Duty Rip Blade, LM72M010, 24T, flat ground blade and see how it goes.

Keep having fun.

[gee-dub]

I have had good luck with Freud blades. With the 1/8" kerf, FTG and that price I'd say you've got a winner.  Using a backer can up your quality of cut.

[Eric.]

The rip blade will be fine as long as you're always ripping.  For miter splines and cutting rabbets it will be okay.  You'll run into problems if you try to use that blade for crosscuts.  I have a #1 grind joinery blade that I use for cross-grain situations when a flat bottom is needed...but I'll keep the rip blade in for any long grain cuts and not think twice.

[Ronn W]

Eric, Thank you.  That sounds like a blade that I could really use. I think it will have to go on my wish list or my B-Day list that will get magically emailed to my wife.

[knotscott]

It's worth noting that only a flat top grind (FTG) will leave a truly flat bottom.  All other configurations have some irregularities across the bottom of the kerf, including any grind that combines a flat raker with another grind.  FTG blades are generally only found in 10T to 24T rip blades, but you can have other blades custom ground if you like.  The LM72 is a very good example of a flat top grind 1/8" full kerf blade....other good examples are the CMT 201.024.10, Infinity 010-024, Forrest WWII 20T, Ridge Carbide, Amana RB1020.  There are some good 3/32" TK rippers with flat top grinds as well....Freud LU87, Infinity 010-124, CMT 202.024.10.

For those looking for FTG blades, it's also worth noting that some 24T ripping blades actually have an ATB grind, especially the 3/32" thin kerf blades like the Freud Diablo D1024, Irwin Marples, Oshlun, Amana AGE MD10-240, CMT ITK, etc.  Just be sure to look close and not make an assumption.