Stacy Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Okay this is my first time doing this, I thought I sanded this down enough but the stain did not take to certain areas! Help! Should I resand? Did I ruin this? Massive mess, and I'm an obvious newbie! Eeeek the wood is pine, so I know this is a soft wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Yikes! Just call it rustic? Seriously though, I'm guessing that you didn't sand all the way through the original finish. I assume the original finish was light? I looks like the top is solid wood, so you can go ahead & sand again to get all the finish off. Test an area with a damp cloth to see if the water is absorbed by the wood. If not, then sand some more. Given that it's pine, it will not absorb the stain evenly & even after sanding all the old finish off will still look blotchy. Others who have more experience with finishing pine will offer more help than I can. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Hi Stacy and welcome. Is that a picture of the piece After staining? If so, it appears you did not remove enough of the old finish to get down to bare wood on most of the table. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stacy Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I figured maybe I didn't remove it all, it looked like I did though! So I guess re sand and start from square 1 lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 2 minutes ago, drzaius said: Yikes! Just call it rustic? 2:00 penalty for using the R word. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Just now, Brendon_t said: 2:00 penalty for using the R word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Unfortunately yes. You can start with a pretty aggressive paper (80 grit) and work your way up through 180. I personally don't go up as far as 220 on pine as it seems to get a bit fuzzy at that stage but maybe that's just me. Before staining next time, you could use just water on a brush or rag to wipe the area down. Look for uniform absorption. If it won't soak up water, it won't soak up your stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stacy Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Lmao! It's a rustic fail at best 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Actually, sanding to 320 or higher csn help even out the absorbtion of stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Finishing can be tricky work. If you approach it with practice and a meticulous attention to detail you will do well. Save scraps from the project, sand and do everything to the scraps as well as the project. Test your stain and finish on the scraps first then you have an idea how it's going to behave on the final project. If you make a mistake ( like the one you are dealing with) then you can practice your repair on the scraps before you apply it to your project. I know this might not be possible now on this project but hopefully someone can learn from this situation. It's a little extra effort on each project but it can pay off when things go wrong ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byegge Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Would be a good idea to use a pre stain treatment on pine. I have used it with good success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 40 minutes ago, byegge said: Would be a good idea to use a pre stain treatment on pine. I have used it with good success. Or not use pine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 1 minute ago, mat60 said: Or not use pine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 That was my first thought I just didn't want to voice it when the goal was salvaging the mess you were in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Someone please correct me if I am wrong since I don't want to give bad information. Aren't there some varnishes that have color in them like a stain and varnish in one step. Wouldn't these go on evenly since the color stays in the varinsh? I have never used this product since I did not like the idea of one scratch through that finish exposing the natural wood color but it might be way out for Stacy after he sands away the mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Minwax used to have such a product, but I don't recall seeing it for some time. Its not hard to tint shellac, maybe oil-based varnish is similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Minwax Polyshades was the tinted varnish product. I have no idea if it's still,available . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 I just used polyshades on a kitchen touch-up in a rental. Home Depot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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