trialbyfire Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 So I bought a Shop Fox W1720 for my Delta 34-670. It was advertised as "fits most saws" but being a realistic person I fully expected to have to make it work with my older table saw. Not really worried about doing a retro fit, but my end result goal is to turn my current set up into a mobile table saw/router table combo type deal. My only concerns are that there is a +/- 1/8" gap from the top of my car iron to the bottom of the new fence and the out feed side rail fit the fence to glide on is about 5 1/2" away from the table top. Does anyone see an issue with not mounting the new fence to the table saw and instead mounting both the table saw and new fence to the mobile cart and not to each other. Mounting them independent of each other would help eliminate the gaps but also introduce new variables which I should be able to handle before final bolting. Has anyone attempted this before? And/or anyone have some kernels of knowledge that they wouldn't mind sharing? I'm gonna do the cart as my first journal after y'all hopefully provide some pointers. Pics are below. The above is the stock fence that my granddad had on it... It sucks... A LOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 You want that fence mounted firmly to the table, definitely. There are just too many things to flex & move & make your woodworking life hell if you mount it to the base. By using shims & drilling new holes as required you should be able to lower the guide rail a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Two thoughts and a question. Q did the saw not come with a little uhmw plastic guy for under the fence to ride on the cast iron? T an 1/8" gap wouldn't bother me as I never really cut anything under say 1/2" on the ts. Being that you have a rail that accepts t bolts, you could easily slap a uhmw face runner on there and have it flat to the saw top. T2. What's the problem with the overhang? A longer reference edge ain't a bad thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialbyfire Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Two thoughts and a question. Q did the saw not come with a little uhmw plastic guy for under the fence to ride on the cast iron? T an 1/8" gap wouldn't bother me as I never really cut anything under say 1/2" on the ts. Being that you have a rail that accepts t bolts, you could easily slap a uhmw face runner on there and have it flat to the saw top. T2. What's the problem with the overhang? A longer reference edge ain't a bad thing. Q: Just checked the box again and did not find anything like that and looking at the blow up of the fence I don't see a "wear plate" on the drawing T: Valid ppint, and if I need to cut something that could slip under the fence I can just attach a secondary fence (forehead slap) T2: The issue I see is that any method of connection to the table top would be sketchy at best. How do I span the 5" so the rail and fence engage? Or is that not important? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 On 5/21/2016 at 8:14 PM, trialbyfire said: Q: Just checked the box again and did not find anything like that and looking at the blow up of the fence I don't see a "wear plate" on the drawing T: Valid ppint, and if I need to cut something that could slip under the fence I can just attach a secondary fence (forehead slap) T2: The issue I see is that any method of connection to the table top would be sketchy at best. How do I span the 5" so the rail and fence engage? Or is that not important? Make a 6" out-feed extension? Also on my Powermatic fence the adjustment screws to make the fence square to the table from the factory were set so there was a large gap between the table. Back those screws out a bit and the pads that ride on the front rail will get sucked up and lower your fence (this is a guess i can't see enough detail to know for sure if this would work). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialbyfire Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 The pads are sucked up all the way already (with the gap). Playing around with the fence I think that the post on the outfeed side is just to aid in traveling left and right. The fence seems to square off of the front rail. Which is my understanding of how this style of fence works. Right? Working on the model for the cart right now and I think the space past the hole for the tablesaw plus a flip up outfeed extension (not drawn yet) should provide me with enough support after the cut. I will most likely remove the offending post and double stick tape a beveled shim of sorts to the bottom of the fence at the end. Please let me know if anything I just said is wrong or setting myself up for failure... It makes sense in my head lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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