Table routing issues

[Vader]

I have a triton router set up in a Kreg table. I am trying to figure out if you can cut a rabbet on the inside perimeter of an already assembled frame.  It's a DIY project (a serving tray with rounded corners).  Since I am wanting to cut the inside perimeter I obviously cannot use the fence and the bit keeps grabbing the workpiece.  I've tried right to left and left to right and not having any success.  I hope someone out there can enlighten me on this.  Thanks much.

[shaneymack]

I have a triton router set up in a Kreg table. I am trying to figure out if you can cut a rabbet on the inside perimeter of an already assembled frame.  It's a DIY project (a serving tray with rounded corners).  Since I am wanting to cut the inside perimeter I obviously cannot use the fence and the bit keeps grabbing the workpiece.  I've tried right to left and left to right and not having any success.  I hope someone out there can enlighten me on this.  Thanks much.

Are you using a rabbeting bit with a bearing?

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Quicker than writing it....

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[Vader]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the bit has a bearing. It grabs the wood and tears it all up.  Is it my technique?

 

[wtnhighlander]

Shane has the plan. You don't have to cut full depth in one pass. Nibble away at it to help avoid grabbing. I'd consider a set of push handles too, for safety.

[shaneymack]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the bit has a bearing. It grabs the wood and tears it all up.  Is it my technique?

 

You need a bearing set. Start with the biggest bearing and work your way down untill you are at required depth. Dont try to freehand first passes, contact needs to made against bearing at all times

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[Vader]

Ok, I'll have to try that. I should be able to freehand it starting with the largest and working down without the bit grabbing the workpiece shouldn't I?  Would anything else be causing this?  I should be moving left to right (clockwise) on a table...right?

[treeslayer]

Shane, if i'm right this would be a climb cut on the router table correct? and as such would require small depth of cut passes to keep it from tearing out

[Coop]

37 minutes ago, Vader said:

Ok, I'll have to try that. I should be able to freehand it starting with the largest and working down without the bit grabbing the workpiece shouldn't I?  Would anything else be causing this?  I should be moving left to right (clockwise) on a table...right?

Correct, the wood should be moving in the clockwise direction if you're routing the inside edge, counter if routing the outside edge, like Shaffer's and Shane's illustrations.

[Tpt life]

Oh, you caught that? Lol I deleted it. First load didn't show Shane's image and I posted a hand held in error. 

[Coop]

20 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

Oh, you caught that? Lol I deleted it. First load didn't show Shane's image and I posted a hand held in error. 

But it still applies. If the router is hand held, the router moves cw, and if it's in a table, the wood, on an inside cut, moves  cw.  You be right!

[Ronn W]

You may be running against the grain.  You don't say what wood you are using but this can be a problem with some woods like red oak.  Unfortunately the above suggestions about direction of cut are all you can do - take light passes, move the work piece slowly and use the highest speed you can without burning the wood.

[bleedinblue]

Instead of changing bearings for every cut, would it not be much simpler to just adjust the depth of cut?

Maybe I'm too tired to understand the problem here.  Unless you're using some extremely difficult to work wood, a bearing'ed (that a word? lol) rabbeting bit is foolproof.  You have a quality router table.  Use some scrap to help figure out the correct direction to feed the wood then have at it.

Or maybe your router bit is super dull?

[Janello]

This is one of those operations I much prefer to use a hand held router rather than a table. Clockwise 2 depth passes....zippidy-doo-da.

Then again, I usually avoid this altogether and do this with a dado stack before I miter or glue up.

[gee-dub]

I do as Shaney shows.  I have bearings of various sizes so if the rabbet will be on display I use a wheel marking gauge to slice the fibers along the path and change bearings in order to allow me to step up to final depth in a very controlled manner.  If the cut is less critical I will just take a 1/16" or so at a pass manually until I reach full depth.

[shaneymack]

Instead of changing bearings for every cut, would it not be much simpler to just adjust the depth of cut?

Maybe I'm too tired to understand the problem here.  Unless you're using some extremely difficult to work wood, a bearing'ed (that a word? lol) rabbeting bit is foolproof.  You have a quality router table.  Use some scrap to help figure out the correct direction to feed the wood then have at it.

Or maybe your router bit is super dull?

I have thought about this as well and its a good point. However, I believe that a rabbeting bit is used to push up against the side of and not plunge with which is essentially what you'd be doing. Im not saying it's not possible but it seems to me the best quality of cut would be achieved by sneaking up on the depth by the side.

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[bleedinblue]

Fair enough, and food for thought!