Jointer Question - Mating Slabs of Walnut


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I've got a question with respects to jointing two large slabs of walnut on my jointer.  The issue I'm having is there is a gap in the middle.  Both ends mate up perfectly however there is at least a 1/16th of an inch gap and that's just too much of a gap for sure.  I don't want to be cranking the clamps as that pressure will just go against the glue up.

So the details for everyone.  I have a 6" Grizzly Jointer which is square along both infeed and out-feed. The walnut slabs are 5' long and 12" wide and 2" thick.  Jointing the two together to have a 24" wide
office desk. Infeed is 30" long and outfeed is 24" long on the jointer. I have no outfeed roller or support at the moment (planning to get one this weekend as I think that may be my problem).

I'm giving modest downward pressure just past the cutterhead on the outfeed side as I've verified via online sources.

That's where I'm at.  Need some help.  These two edges should mate a lot better than what's coming out.  See attached picture.

Thanks in advance!

 

JointerQuestion.JPG

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Definitely pushing the capacity of your jointer.

Suggest placing the 2 faces together with clamps and running over the jointer at the same time.  Mark the edges with a pencil (just some squiggly lines) first so that you know when you have the edges completely jointed.

If your fence is off of 90, this will cancel that difference out when you lay them flat.

I'm guessing that one, or both, of your boards is not jointed flat.

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Hey TIODS, thanks for that feedback. I didn't even think of putting both slabs together and running them through at the same time.  Great idea.  I'll try that tomorrow, gave up this evening and into the wine now ;)

I still think I need a roller stand for the outfeed as both of those slabs together will be quite heavy.

Thanks!

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Your pieces are long enough so that the leading edge is off the outfeed table as the center of the board nears the cutter head.  Because the board is concave down it tends to lower itself farther onto the blade as the leading edge continues past the end oi the outfeed table.  When I have boards this long that have a gap in the middle I set the depth of cut 1/32" or less and run the leading edge of the board thru the cutter about 12". Then I lift the board and move it forward and lower the board onto the rotating cutter head about 12" from the trailing end.  Then repeat making a longer cut at each end.  After about 2 or 3 cuts (longer each time) you should find that the the blades are cutting the full length of the board and you should have a straight edge.  I am assuming that your fence is square to the bed.

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3 minutes ago, Shaun Guthrie said:

Hey TIODS, thanks for that feedback. I didn't even think of putting both slabs together and running them through at the same time.  Great idea.  I'll try that tomorrow, gave up this evening and into the wine now ;)

I still think I need a roller stand for the outfeed as both of those slabs together will be quite heavy.

Thanks!

Is what I meant by pushing the capacity of your jointer.  Infeed and outfeed support would be a huge help.

I typically joint all my panel glue ups this way.  This way, if my jointer fence is off (even just a little) it doesn't matter.

Good luck!  I look forward to seeing the results after your hangover ;)

 

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4 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

Your pieces are long enough so that the leading edge is off the outfeed table as the center of the board nears the cutter head.  Because the board is concave down it tends to lower itself farther onto the blade as the leading edge continues past the end oi the outfeed table.  When I have boards this long that have a gap in the middle I set the depth of cut 1/32" or less and run the leading edge of the board thru the cutter about 12". Then I lift the board and move it forward and lower the board onto the rotating cutter head about 12" from the trailing end.  Then repeat making a longer cut at each end.  After about 2 or 3 cuts (longer each time) you should find that the the blades are cutting the full length of the board and you should have a straight edge

Yeah my cuts so far are very very shallow, not taking a lot off each time. I could try that as well if the first suggestion does not work.  Any issue dropping the board onto the spinning cutterhead?

 

3 minutes ago, TIODS said:

Is what I meant by pushing the capacity of your jointer.  Infeed and outfeed support would be a huge help.

I typically joint all my panel glue ups this way.  This way, if my jointer fence is off (even just a little) it doesn't matter.

Good luck!  I look forward to seeing the results after your hangover ;)

 

HAHA No hangover. Just a couple glasses that's all.

Great feedback again on mating the two side by side and running their edges together.  Will report back tomorrow!

 

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1 minute ago, Shaun Guthrie said:

Yeah my cuts so far are very very shallow, not taking a lot off each time. I could try that as well if the first suggestion does not work.  Any issue dropping the board onto the spinning cutterhead?

 

Just don't "drop", place it down..  Think about it like starting a stopped grove on a router table..

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1 minute ago, Shaun Guthrie said:

Yeah my cuts so far are very very shallow, not taking a lot off each time. I could try that as well if the first suggestion does not work.  Any issue dropping the board onto the spinning cutterhead?

 

No problem lower onto cutter head just lower it and fed it in the proper direction to the end of the board.  I aggre that an outfeed support is almost a must if the pieces are heavy.

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Just now, Shaun Guthrie said:

I guess I should not have said drop, know exactly what you mean. Thanks!

 

Sometimes the problem with forums and the typed word is that there is on voice inflection and people tend to take things literally.  

Ronn is correct tho in that if that curve is dropping off the end of your bed then, you'll still see the same issue even if they're clamped together.  You need to really support that outfeed side.

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1 minute ago, TIODS said:

Sometimes the problem with forums and the typed word is that there is on voice inflection and people tend to take things literally.  

Ronn is correct tho in that if that curve is dropping off the end of your bed then, you'll still see the same issue even if they're clamped together.  You need to really support that outfeed side.

on it, heading to KMS Tools tomorrow and picking one up! :)

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4 minutes ago, Shaun Guthrie said:

on it, heading to KMS Tools tomorrow and picking one up! :)

If you have a track saw, you could cut them individually with that first and then clamp them together and run them over the jointer.  If not, then the outfeed support would be the way to go.

Roller stands are always handy in the shop!

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Take the high ends off first with very light cuts.  Start halfway past the cutterhead. You may have to do the same thing on the other end by turning the board around.  Sight edge until it's close, and then run it all the way.  It should be no issue with the length of the jointer if the balance point is only six inches off the outfeed table.

If a board has a curve in it, don't start by running it all the way.  To start with, do what's needed to make it closer to straight.

How much do these pieces weigh that balance point being 6" beyond the length of the outfeed table causes a problem?

Jointer length does not come into play unless you're dealing with a weight that is too hard to handle.  You do have to use your eye, and develop the strategy from what you see.

 

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My jointer has 54" beds & is tune pretty much perfectly. But if I edge joint a board that is in the 6'+ length, it will tend to take on a bit of a concave bow, like the OP's. I built simple extension tables about 30" long for both the in feed & out feed. Fixed the problem. The sections for my workbench top were 3.5" x 10" x 72" & they jointed perfectly for glue up.

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Thanks everyone.  Lots of good suggestions here, really appreciate the quick response from everyone!  I'm heading today to get some roller stands for both sides.  As someone suggest can never have enough and I've really needed them in the past before, time to spend a few bucks on them. 

 

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Got the roller stands and after a few passes through I've got a much better joint.  Still a very very tiny gap however easily closes with little pressure so I'm satisfied.  I think the pieces like someone said put the jointer as is to test, just need good infeed and outfeed setups and I'm good.

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was supposed to post a picture as someone asked before... here is the end product. 

The glue up went very well once I got those rollers to support the load pre-feed and post-feed

Finished with Arm-R-Seal, this was after the final coat so it's not the shiny, just wet in this picture.

WalnutDesk.jpg

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