Bedside tables


-MattK-

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Just now, Immortan D said:

Nice project, Matt.

Are you going to laminate the inside of that curve? Because all that end grain facing up may screw up your finish.

Advice from Marc was to sand it to a higher grit...  he may have also said something about a coat of shellac, I have to check my notes.  I have a few other curved mistakes pieces that I can test the finishing process with.

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This is a cool design Matt ! I will be following along. Must be great to be using the new space.

I see you have a Ti 15 there, how do you like it? Really dont understand why Festool discontinued that, id would get one if it wasn't.

Will you be raising your outfeed table closer to the height of your tablesaw?

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53 minutes ago, -MattK- said:

 

The outfeed table is the same height as the tablesaw, what you're seeing there is a gap. I didn't account for that angle iron that's on the back of the saw, so there's a gap.  Doesn't cause any harm besides letting dust fall between the saw and the outfeed table!

Ahh i see. Must just be a bit of an optical illusion. You could just domino on a piece of wood to come butt up to the tablesaw. Thats what I did. 

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24 minutes ago, Just Bob said:

Very interesting, looking forward to this build.  I don't know squat about this, so I have a question.  It seems to me that there will be a very weak area where the curve starts.  What am I missing?

there's definitely the potential for a grain issue there, but it's not really going to see a lot of weight or stress, so I'm not that worried about it (that is, until my 9 year old decides to try to RKO someone from the top of the table and onto the bed). 

Marc and I talked about alternatives (mostly for grain appearance when I was thinking about two part legs) but they just got so complex, I thought I'd give this a whirl and see how it goes. 

The legs are approx. 1.75" thick, they feel pretty beefy.

19 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

Ahh i see. Must just be a bit of an optical illusion. You could just domino on a piece of wood to come butt up to the tablesaw. Thats what I did. 

that's clever - I like it!

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On June 28, 2016 at 2:24 PM, -MattK- said:

 I didn't account for that angle iron that's on the back of the saw, so there's a gap.  

Yep, I did the same thing but like you said I don't find it to be a problem.

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  • 3 weeks later...

With my gnat-like attention span I was distracted by a few other things (chicken coop extension, installing a basketball hoop, pen making, cutting boards, project with my daughter), but I'm back on this now.

shelves are made. Tenons for breadboard ends are done, breadboard ends are done.  I just need to finesse the tenons a bit.

I'm thinking about how to attach the breadboard ends and I don't have any walnut dowels.  I could make them on the lathe, I guess...  Or grab em from woodcraft. But I was thinking that a cool effect might be some sort of contrast...  Specifically a different material like metal.  More specifically, brass.

might that work?  Epoxy in some brass rod to the breadboard ends instead of a wood dowel?

any thoughts on size of the rod?  HD has 1/8". Lowe's has 3/16".  Otherwise I'm looking on the Internet for 1/2"ish, I guess.  Any guidance out there?

thanks!

 

matt

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If you mean using the dowels as 'drawbored' pegs to attach the breadboard, then wood is the only reasonable choice. I don't think you could get a good fit with metal rods, because the peg and hole won't conform as the peg is driven in. Much greater risk of splitting.

Now, if this is a purely decorative element, I think brass and walnut look nice together. Have you considered using a wooden dowel inside a brass tube? That might provide a little bling without distracting too much from the walnut.

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well three comments in a row pooped on my brass pins for the breadboard ends for aesthetic and construction reasons... but in true douche-y fashion, I did it anyway.  So apologies to @K Cooper, @TerryMcK, and @wtnhighlander - I appreciate your input and advice, even though it may not seem like it!

I futzed around with how to do the breadboard ends... it's tricky because they're not that wide (just the width of the legs since they're really just there to protect from wood movement with the captive shelves).  I ended up trying the "domino-as-breadboard-tenon" approach I'd seen on youtube.  If you're not familiar, the idea is that you put dominos in the main part of the table - tight and glued in.  And then on the breadboard end you choose where the anchor point is (middle for me) - make a tight domino mortise there and loose domino mortises in the other holes.  Here's a pic of the shelves and one breadboard, before I elongated the holes in the floating dominos... you can see the tight and loose domino mortises:

breadboard ends.jpg

 

If you look closely at the photo above, there's a bit of tearout on the ends of the shelves but that all cleaned up once I sent them through the drum sander after they were fully assembled:

with ends installed.jpg

 

Here's a detail of what the pin looks like, I don't think it's too bling-y, and it'll be difficult to see once everything's fully assembled, anyways.

pin end.jpg

 

There are some gaps between the breadboard and the end of the main body of the shelf.  I didn't really drawbore them together (as @wtnhighlander discussed above), so maybe it didn't pull the joint as snug as using a wooden dowel and properly drawboring, but I can live with the gap you see).

 

 

 

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They look good.  I think the brass pins are cool.  I always drawbore my breadbord pins just a teeny weeny bit, like 1/64".  That's all it takes.  If you don't, you run the risk of pushing the breadboard away from the panel.  That's no good.

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Looks very good, Matt. I really like the brass pins.

What's the deal with you not posting any pics/video of your sick new euro beast in action? This journal ain't crap untill we see the hammer in action ! Drop the hammer !!

e1e6b37e105228db742ac7c821d86915.jpg

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@Eric. good to know.  I gave the Cremona sofa table build a cursory viewing and missed that if he did it.  What you say makes perfect sense and I'll incorporate that next time.

@K Cooper thanks Coop - I think the small-ish brass rod (3/16") means it doesn't get too gaudy.  Just wait until you see the handles I put in it, though!

@shaneymack for the record, I'm reading that sign in the accent of Austria's second greatest export.

Whatcha wanna see?  @Llama wants some sort of review on that thing, too, I think.

Since the tune-up, it's great.  The jointer makes boards flat.  Even really wide ones.  It does nice things to the edges of boards, too.  The planer makes two sides of a board parallel.

The extension table is really useful because it makes the table longer.

:lol:

All kidding aside, it's mostly great.  Cuts well.  Segmented head is a dream, you barely have to pay attention to grain direction.  The planer is ok.  It doesn't seem to always get a great grip on a board - I think it has a steel roller... but it could be the questionable lumber I'm using (walnut that air dried in a barn for 25 years... there's a lot of cupping and hockey-sticking in that batch!)

Biggest negative: I hate the fence mechanism.  The stupid piece of metal that sticks out the back is super thin and catches on things.  I bent it all outta shape when it got caught on a DC hose this week.  It's made out of crappy paper thin metal.  Just a terrible design.

And not really a true negative, but holy cow does that thing make some wood chips!  I feel like I'm always emptying the DC bin... and it has a 55 gallon barrel!

Do you really want a video?  Do you have some "chubby guy running wood over a jointer" fetish or something?  I mean, not that there's anything wrong with that.

:wacko:

 

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