TheOnlyDave Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 I'm currently building a new house with a basement and will finally get to have a woodworking shop. I've been a garage hobbyist for many years and done a long of remodeling and finish carpentry work but due to restrictions at my current home I've been limited to so a shop that can break down every night. With my new house I'll have a 2500 sqft basement, and it's mine, mine, mine. While I have been a careful wood worker and have used table saws for years I've grown attached to my fingers. I've been researching saws and I had settled on a Bosch Reaxx until my first trip to a Rockler store. After speaking with the sales rep there. He really has me thinking I'm wasting my money if I don't by a cabinet saw. What do you think? Thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Welcome to the forum. Buy the Sawstop. The Bosch appears nice, but since you probably won't be moving after setup, I would want a cabinet saw over a job site saw any day. Going this route may cost more upfront, but should outlast you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prov163 Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Welcome Dave. I have a hybrid cabinet saw and like it. I got a killer deal on it about 7 years ago but it had no riving knife. I use Grippers and MJ Steel Pro Splitter. All that said, if you can afford the Sawstop, buy it. It's a great machine and the safety features are top notch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOnlyDave Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Afford sure, it would delay the purchase a month or two and delay other tool purchase, but I could afford the saw. I would also have to figure out how to get that beast down the stairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 15 minutes ago, TheOnlyDave said: I would also have to figure out how to get that beast down the stairs. It is heavy but you and a buddy with a little planning could get it down stairs. You won't regret the SawStop, but even though the Bosch has a safety feature you will regret the job site size saw in the long run. Buy once cry once. Oh and welcome to the forum Dave. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Another vote for the cabinet saw.. If that technology is a requirement for you then the SS would be the choice. I would take a cabinet saw before a lesser saw with the technology. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post drzaius Posted July 16, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 The only way I'd get a job site saw is if I had to regularly move it around to job sites. A contractor, hybrid, or cabinet are so superior in almost every way. After having contractors saws for decades, I got a SawStop 3HP PCS & after using it, I'd have a hard time going back. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davestanton Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Another vote for the sawstop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 And another for SawStop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 All aboard for the SAWSTOP. The difference in quality is apparent when you first begin to unpack the parts. The manual is printed on quality stock and in a spiral binder. If memory serves me, the main unit (cabinet and one section of table) are packed separately and if the stairs are straight forward, should be able to be hand trucked down. Then the rest of the assembly can be done. Late last year, I upgraded from a decent RIDGID contractor saw and I couldn't be happier. Oh, and welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Disclaimer: I have a 3HP PCS. Apples and oranges. Ignoring the safety features, you are talking about two different tools. A cabinet saw is made to pretty much stay put. A mobile base is great if you absolutely have to move the saw but, we're basically talking about a non-portable machine. A job site saw is made to be portable and is designed from the ground up with weight and portability in mind. This is great for moving from site to site but, is less than ideal for a home shop tablesaw format. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Jobsite and contractor saws are for jobsites and contractors. Cabinet saws are for furniture makers. Also Sawstop has been proven a high quality, reliable machine. Bosch is still fairly unknown. No-brainer IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 I had a idea after the OP first post this would be a Sawstop thread LOL..I also agree its a great saw and you did say you like your fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOnlyDave Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 This is some good info. I guess my thinking is for a beginner the Sawstop would be wasted but on the other hand the Reaxx is a lot of money to just replace in a few years. It's based on the Bosch 4100 which is considered to be one of if not the best job site saw, but it's still a job site saw. It'll be an unfinished basement to start so running electrical is not an issue so 115 version doesn't make any sense, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 By far the biggest benefit of a portable saw is portability. They're capable of quite a lot, but have distinct limitations. You give up quite a lot in comparison to a full size cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor to get portability that it doesn't sound like you need with this new shop. You don't have to a buy a cabinet saw to get more than a jobsite saw offers....a hybrid style contractor saw, hybrid saw, or industrial cabinet saw all have huge advantages over the portables. The Bosch and Saw Stop are very good, but very expensive examples of portable saws, albeit with a great safety feature....I'm not up on current pricing, but the last I knew you're paying somewhere in the $800-$900 for the safety brake. The Saw Stop contractor saw is also quite expensive but also has the safety feature, plus gives you a lot more surface area in front of the blade, a lot more mass, more torque, much quieter motor, beefier components, and more ability to upgrade things like the fence and wings....more saw for the money than the jobsite saw IMO. Obviously the PCS and ICS offer even more saw... yes, the cost is higher, but the I think the sweet spot for value is in the PCS. Without regard for the safety brake, I think the Grizzly G1023RL 3hp industrial cabinet saw offers the most bang for the buck on the market. For little more than the cost of a Reaxx or Saw Stop jobsite saw you get a really nice 3hp industrial cabinet saw. The ABCs of Table Saws 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 This is some good info. I guess my thinking is for a beginner the Sawstop would be wasted but on the other hand the Reaxx is a lot of money to just replace in a few years. It's based on the Bosch 4100 which is considered to be one of if not the best job site saw, but it's still a job site saw. It'll be an unfinished basement to start so running electrical is not an issue so 115 version doesn't make any sense, correct? If electrical isn't an issue and you are buying a forever saw it would make sense to get the 220 version. I have the Sawstop 3hp pro with 52" rails with the overarm dust collection and it's a dream saw. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 11 hours ago, TheOnlyDave said: Afford sure, it would delay the purchase a month or two and delay other tool purchase, but I could afford the saw. I would also have to figure out how to get that beast down the stairs. I have my table saw in my basement. I used 2 2x4s and some heft screws with washers to attach to the base carried the top and other parts separate and had a friend grab the other side. If the saw stop is heavier than my saw you could turn the 2x4s on edge and use lag screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 The Sawstop PCS is broken down into the components seen in this photo. It should be no problem getting it downstairs if you have some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOnlyDave Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 if needed I guess I could hire a moving company, worst case scenario I'm in the western burbs of Chicago, there are tons of rigging companies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post prov163 Posted July 16, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Just another thought on your subject. You can buy a really good cabinet saw with a riving knife, get a set of Grippers for "too close to the blade" cuts and save a ton of money. I'm not shortchanging the Sawstop, but they ain't cheap. You can buy a really strong, well-built cabinet saw without the flesh sensing technology but with a riving knife for a lot less. While I know the Sawstop is a great machine, you still need to use proper safety precautions. The vast majority of table saw accidents are the result of improper safety precautions. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex Edgar Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 4 hours ago, micks said: The Sawstop PCS is broken down into the components seen in this photo. It should be no problem getting it downstairs if you have some help. Micks, I see a MFTC in your photo. Did you design it or get the plans from Mr Wilmots in Belgium? That table is in my 'to do' bucket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 34 minutes ago, Rex Edgar said: Micks, I see a MFTC in your photo. Did you design it or get the plans from Mr Wilmots in Belgium? That table is in my 'to do' bucket. I used Tim's plans. I use that table at least as much as my bench. At the time, I needed the mobility. If I were to do it over, I'd make it twice the size - more like Shane's. I made an outfeed table for my TS using the same hole pattern. It's great for busting up panels with my track saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOnlyDave Posted July 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I'm thinking I'll go with the SawStop. Now to decide on the options. I'm like a fat kid in a candy store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Great choice Dave..You will enjoy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 I highly recommend the overarm dust collection. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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