Cliff Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 As I mentioned in my build journal, my countertop is about 1/2" or more short on each side. It was a rookie mistake, I admit. I'm not 100% sure how I managed it. So we'll move on. I can trim out the top edges with some walnut, the problem, hopefully, you can see in the pic below. I have circled it. I could use some ideas for how to make that work and not look stupid. We are not tiling down next to the counter, it will stop with the top of the counter line. And here is a view from the top as well. Appreciate any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I'm drawing a blank. Can you "rabbet" the bottom of that bullnose piece so it tucks down into the gap? Otherwise I don't know what else you'd fill it with that would be any less conspicuous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Cliff, are both pics of the same side of the counter? The paint looks different but both look like the right side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Make a cove molding with a 1/2" section under it that fills the gap, and tile the backsplash down to the molding, rather than the counter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Glue 1/4" backer to the wall with PowerGrab and the tile with thinset should get there. The wood trim for below has many possibilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Let the side splash piece extend 1/2" past the countertop and cope cut to fit the counter edge. So you need at least the thickness of the counter plus the splash height . Practice the cut on scrap before you tackle the actual one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I would do what Eric suggests and leave the bottom so that it can be ground and polished round. I would not leave a sharp edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 26 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Cliff, are both pics of the same side of the counter? The paint looks different but both look like the right side. It is the same, any difference is a result of camera phone, or the fact that we didn't carry the green all the way over since we're tiling there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Ok, we've set up a prototype of sorts with some of your ideas. I have 1/2" cement board downstairs that I can cut out to the shape of the area we will tile on each side wall. Then set up the tile and bull nose as see in the pic. Does this look non-stupid at a glance? I know that once you stare at it you go.. "wait a minute.. whats going on here." My wife poo'd on Eric's idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Won't 1/2" be too thick? I was thinking 1/4" would still let you set the bullnose on the wall, but still cover the edge of the field tile. Or maybe there are other trim pieces you could use to put under the bullnose to bring it out some. I think the bullnose should cover the cut edges of the field tile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 11 minutes ago, Tom King said: Won't 1/2" be too thick? I was thinking 1/4" would still let you set the bullnose on the wall, but still cover the edge of the field tile. Or maybe there are other trim pieces you could use to put under the bullnose to bring it out some. I think the bullnose should cover the cut edges of the field tile. True. I may have to look at it again. I just checked and we got 5/8" bullnose. Edit - Looks like my local lowes has 1/4" cement board so I'll just pick up a piece of that tomorrow then play "find the stud" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 PowerGrab will hold it up there fine. Just give it a day to set before you set the tile on it. Of course it wouldn't hurt to put a couple of fasteners in there. The 1/4" Hardie type backer is easier to cut than the other stuff. The tile doesn't have to come over on top of the counter-just barely get there, or almost. If almost, the bead of caulking will finish. You should be able to see where the studs are by looking in the upper cabinets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 You can stuff foam backer rod between the counter and the wall before you put the 1/4" tile backer then any caulk won't just fall out below the tile. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 1 minute ago, wdwerker said: You can stuff foam backer rod between the counter and the wall before you put the 1/4" tile backer then any caulk won't just fall out below the tile. I will do that! 6 minutes ago, Tom King said: PowerGrab will hold it up there fine. Just give it a day to set before you set the tile on it. Of course it wouldn't hurt to put a couple of fasteners in there. The 1/4" Hardie type backer is easier to cut than the other stuff. The tile doesn't have to come over on top of the counter-just barely get there, or almost. If almost, the bead of caulking will finish. You should be able to see where the studs are by looking in the upper cabinets. Oh I had no idea what you meant by PowerGrab. I'll look for that. The cabinets, I think, are not screwed into the side walls, just the back. Not 100% sure but we couldn't find any screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Use a strong magnet to find hidden nails or screws holding up the cabinets. I use a 3/8" or 1/2" dia. ball magnet ( K & J magnetics.com ) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 1 minute ago, wdwerker said: Use a strong magnet to find hidden nails or screws holding up the cabinets. I use a 3/8" or 1/2" dia. ball magnet ( K & J magnetics.com ) You are just full of useful info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 To fill the gap at the edge I would cut a piece of walnut that matches your countertop (you probably have scrap). If you glue in a 3" piece with CA glue that matches the edge profile of the counter then no one will ever notice. You can also avoid the trim coming down past the countertop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 12 minutes ago, Andy Wright said: To fill the gap at the edge I would cut a piece of walnut that matches your countertop (you probably have scrap). If you glue in a 3" piece with CA glue that matches the edge profile of the counter then no one will ever notice. You can also avoid the trim coming down past the countertop That's the other camp I am in.. I'm going to make test pieces and see how I like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Maybe I don't see the whole picture but can't you just move the bullnose over so that it comes down on the counter top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 1 hour ago, Cliff said: That's the other camp I am in.. I'm going to make test pieces and see how I like it A good way to clamp the piece in place while the glue dries is to wedge a putty knife between the wall and the patch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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