Hammer5573 Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Does anyone use hide glue when doing wood inlays? I've read that its good at filling any gaps between the inlays and the wood? Is granulated hide glue superior to the liquid form? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 The few inlays I have done were with epoxy or CA. Never used hide glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I use Original Tite bond or Tite bond 3 and, as I level each indiviual piece with a card scraper or sand paper, I rub sawdust with a little glue with my finger to fill in minor oopses. Will be interesting to hear if anyone uses hide glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3nry Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I use hot hide glue, but only for veneering - I've never used the liquid glue. I've also never really done any inlay, I stick veneers onto the substrate not into it. So I can't really answer your questions. I guess it fills little teeny gaps ok, but I try not to leave gaps if I can, and none of them are more than 1/42" deep, but if you've got big honking holes I expect you'd be better off with epoxy. You talk about gaps "between the inlays and the wood" as if your inlay isn't wood, I have no idea how well hide glue adheres to other inlay materials such as metal or stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I have used the hide glue made by Titebond and had good luck with it so far. It dries clear and when mixing it with sawdust, I've found it OK for filling gaps. I'm not sure how strong it is but, there were a lot of chairs made with hide glue in the past. Also, it will release with applying heat as with a heat gun if a rare mistake is made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I've used Titebond Hide Glue as well and really liked it. It had good initial grip and didn't cause my glue up to slide all over the place like PVA glue does. I haven't use it for inlays but those characterstics (good grip, less slippery) would be desirable, I think. Its a little more expensive than PVA but I will probably swith to it as my go to glue because it was just easier/cleaner to use. I am sure it is strong enough for my needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I really like the concept of hide glue does anyone know if I used hide glue say on a outdoor bench would the high heat of summer reverse the glue and possibly make my bench fall apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 4 minutes ago, Griff said: I really like the concept of hide glue does anyone know if I used hide glue say on a outdoor bench would the high heat of summer reverse the glue and possibly make my bench fall apart? Probably. Titebond 3 or epoxy are the only two adhesives I'd use on outdoor furniture and I think even TB 3 is iffy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I bought some of the bottled hide glue to do a veneer repair on a piano, but was never brave enough to use it, so I bought the flakes. Derek had given a tip to buy a "wax warmer" for hair removal to heat the glue. Search "wax warmer" on ebay, and you can get one from a US shipper, with free shipping, for about $15.50. I bought the one that didn't have "wax warmer" printed on it, and it works probably as good as the high priced hide glue warmer. The wax warmer is for heating hair removal wax with, and has an adjustable heat knob. It works just right for hide glue turned to about 3/4. I also bought a cheap thermometer on ebay to find the 140 degrees, but that's not really necessary. When it's runny but stringy, it's ready to go. I also made a makeshift veneering hammer that ended up working great. I cut a slot in a piece of wood, and epoxied in a piece of thick sheet metal that came from Lowes. I think it was some sort of Simpson tie. I filed the burr off of the edges. You can buy a fancier looking one, but not one that works better. You don't really hammer with it, but keep pressing and rubbing until the glue sets, which is not too long, but gives enough time to work it just right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3nry Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 1 hour ago, Tom King said: I also made a makeshift veneering hammer that ended up working great. I cut a slot in a piece of wood, and epoxied in a piece of thick sheet metal that came from Lowes. I think it was some sort of Simpson tie. I don't know how important it really is, but when I made my veneer hammer most sources I read advised to not use iron or steel for the metal bit, since some woods (particularly oak) can discolour in the presence of wet iron. Brass is traditional, but I've had no problem with aluminium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 The repair I made it for was Cuban Mahogany. It worked fine. I'll make a better looking one out of brass if I ever need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 I have always looked for hide glue, but never can find it. (Obtuse joke is obtuse) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 I've purchased hide glue from Lee Valley and Tools for Working Wood. I've used both liquid and hot varieties and have had really good luck with it. I plan to use it nearly exclusively going forward. The clean up alone is a huge benefit in my opinion. As expensive as the liquid variety is, I'm going to try and make a batch myself in the near future. Popular Woodworking has an interesting article about hide glues with the recipe for making your own liquid hide glue at the end of this article. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted July 26, 2016 Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 TFWW's hide glue comes from http://www.bjorn.net/ if you're willing to buy a larger amount of granules, and I've used this recipe http://www.workbenchdiary.com/2015/01/convert-to-collagen-free-printable.html to good effect. I've actually not tried the more traditional hide glue recipe but I just acquired a proper glue pot so perhaps next time I'm messing around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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