Tom Cancelleri Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 I've been commissioned to build a coffee table for someone, and they want it to be a satin black finish. Obviously it's gonna be an HVLP finishing project. I'm going to say satin black lacquer. Table will be built from hardwood ply and poplar. Any recommendations on the paint for the finish, or any finishing tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 Depending on budget you might consider maple instead of poplar. I have a friend that does museum quality picture frames. He uses clear high quality maple almost exclusively for painted frames because it takes paint so well. www.metroframe.com is his website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 Whatever finish you use get some compatible sanding sealer. Have it tinted black if possible. Clear tinted black is best. Spray then block sand 220 first coat and inspect with a raking light to find the flaws to fill . Repeat as many times as needed sanding 320 before you put the first top coat on. As soon as you see the sandpaper loading scrub it off with a gray abrasive pad. Claims that a top coat can be used as a seal coat are LIES ! Sanding sealer scratches easily and doesn't load your sandpaper rapidly. Finish coats are not supposed to scratch easily and they clog sandpaper quickly. I use a water bourne finish but the same process is good for solvent finishes. I use 90w equivalent LED outdoor rated spotlights in those swing arm architects lamps to provide a raking light for inspection. It takes a ton of light to see the flaws in black base coats. But they show up en masse as soon as you spray a coat of satin ! Hordes if you spray gloss ! Maple is better, harder and tighter grain. Even the slight difference between poplar & maple could save a coat or so of sealer. Ugly colored maple is perfect for this use. Curly or ambrosia are a very bad idea ! I sand the bare wood to 220. The first coat of sealer will raise the grain and stiffen it so it cuts off cleanly & easily. Very slightly break all sharp square corners and edges. The finish will flow around the corner, sharp edges the finish pulls back due to surface tension and this makes sanding through to bare wood very easy. Check out my Floating Shelves Project Journal to follow the process in white. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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