How fine to sand? (Flame birch)


xxdabroxx

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Hi guys, I'm working on a mirror frame to match the vanity I built a while back.  I found a piece of flame birch buried in the pile of birch at the local home depot and am rounding the home stretch.  I had to use practically the whole board to make my frame so I don't have many scraps to test finishes on.  I plan to use minwax wipe on poly in a satin finish (I used satin ARS on the vanity and minwax on my window trim and they seem to match well), so this leads to my question:  How fine would you sand to?  I've sanded to 220 with my ROS but I'm not sure if I should go higher or will that make the flame less pronounced?  I'm not opposed to doing more coats and sanding between coats if that will bring out the flame better, I'd just really like it to pop as much as possible.  I don't really want to mess with a coat of BLO or danish oil as I want the color to match the other wood in the room as much as possible, just looking to get the best finish quality out of the wipe on poly. 

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Stop at 220, you're done.

The higher grit you sand to, the more you risk burnishing the grain and you'll actually get less pop when you put on the finish because it will inhibit absorption.

Danish oil or BLO will not pop the grain any more than ARS.  If someone tells you that, they don't know what they're talking about.  And BLO can turn maple yellow as a banana.

DYE, on the other hand, will.  But that's a whole other can o' worms.

 

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Cool deal, don't want to make it yellow.  This is always where I get that disconnect between woodworking and metalworking/ painting.  220 on metal looks like garbage, but on wood it works. 

Should I use a scotchbrite pad or steel wool between coats or only after second to final coat? 

Also, you usually thin your final coat 50/50 with mineral spirits correct?  Does it matter if it is mineral spirits substitute?  Seems to be all I can find locally, didn't even notice it until I was watching a youtube video one day that mentioned all they could find was substitute. 

 

Yeah, if this was a standalone piece I might play with dyes, but since it needs to match I want to keep it simple. 

Thanks,
Dave

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I use 320 after the first and second coats, 600 after the third coat, thin my fourth and final coat with MS (but not 50/50, probably more like 75/25 ARS/MS), then come back after the finish is cured* and polish with 1000 or 2000 grit Platin pad, lubricated with a 1:1 mix of mineral spirits:mineral oil.

I don't know what "mineral spirits substitute" is.  I've only ever used mineral spirits.

*cured is probably an exaggeration.  I've done this as soon as the day after the final coat.  If the finish is cool and DRY to the touch with not a trace of tackiness, I'll polish much sooner than "ideal" if I'm in a hurry.  Ideal is probably five days or a week.

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10 minutes ago, Mike. said:

Can you get naphta? 

Searching for naphtha on home depot brought up a mineral spirits based Klean-Strip that says it is not for sale in CA.  I'll have to look in the store today.  Going to go by after work. 

 

Looks like amazon will ship me real mineral spirits if it comes down to it.  Maybe I'll start finishing a non figured scrap this evening and then give the politically correct mineral spirits a go on it. 

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180 to 220 then stop. After applying finish sand between coats very lightly with higher grits. I usually do 600 to 800 (lube with mineral spirits or water - dependant upon finish type). Apply your subsequent coats letting it cure properly between coats. Hit it with 1200 very lightly and then top coat. Wait until full cured and hit with 4000 grit or a brown paper grocery bag (remove any seams) to take off any dust nibs. You're done - baby butt smooth.

Beware of edges as you can sand through to wood.

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