Popular Post CandorLush Posted September 6, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 So my friend has commissioned me to make him a new cage for his bearded dragon, Thrall (named after the Horde Warchief) but, rather than just a cage, he wanted it to look like a piece of furniture that happened to house a lizard, not just some out-of-place cage in his living room. Most of his furniture has a mahogany look to it so we settled on sapele for both cost and plywood availability and the final dimensions are going to be in the area of 38" high, 24" deep and 48" wide. I am taking some inspiration from the article in FWW#152, An Everyday Cabinet located here but I am having the main doors on top for the cage part with a second set of smaller doors on the bottom to store the assorted extras for Thrall without it being on display for everyone to see. My friend will be designing the actual enclosure, mostly red rocks and wooden structures, with a small pond in the middle as homage to Orgrimmar. I am also planning on making a lizard-friendly version of Thrall's throne as a little bonus. "Final" design: Starting legs, lucked out with a slight curve at the end of my 6/4 board that matched my profile: Leg blank, template and the still-waiting-to-be-cleaned-up leg: Mortise+tenons done for the left side: Anyway, this is how far I am as of last night, I will keep adding pictures as I go and I would love to hear if anything looks off design wise. Thanks for looking, Carl 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post CandorLush Posted September 6, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 This was actually my first project, some "honeycomb" shelves for the nursery of my wife's godson. #1 pine 1x6's, 30 degree mitered, end grain glued and brad nailed. I used two coats of the Marigold Yellow milk paint from the Old Fashioned Milk Paint Co and wiped on a coat of watco danish oil to darken it up a little. They came out great in the end and they wont be holding much weight so the joints won't have much stress on them. The paint went on really well and was light enough that you can still see some of the cathedral grain come through. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elroy Skimms Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Any plans for a Horde logo inlay? -E 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Cool project. What kind of heat source are you planning for? Although it is convenient, I would recommend against flex watt. It will actually start delaminating the plys pretty quickly. If you haven't yet, plan for somewhere for the t-stat to go and a way to hide the cords. If I may make an observation. The 38" high is crazy. Beardies do not need, want, or use vertical space. It's a total waste of space and will make it harder for him to thermo regulate. That space could easily be divided into two seperate terrariums. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Looks like a nice simple design, fits my taste. If your friend likes it, looks good to me. Seems like a unique project, have fun and keep updating is with your progress! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted September 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 8 hours ago, Elroy Skimms said: Any plans for a Horde logo inlay? -E Not until you asked, lol. We are planning on venting the cage with custom formed vents like in the attached photo I snagged from another build. (https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=182242) Might be really cool as a 12" tall side vent with a red LED strip inside. Thanks! 5 hours ago, Brendon_t said: Cool project. What kind of heat source are you planning for? Although it is convenient, I would recommend against flex watt. It will actually start delaminating the plys pretty quickly. If you haven't yet, plan for somewhere for the t-stat to go and a way to hide the cords. If I may make an observation. The 38" high is crazy. Beardies do not need, want, or use vertical space. It's a total waste of space and will make it harder for him to thermo regulate. That space could easily be divided into two seperate terrariums. Thanks, we aren't sure what we will end up with yet but thanks for the info on the flex watt. He has the normal heat bulbs now so we will probably stick with those to start. The bottom of cage will be tile with the insert "pond" area so it should keep enough heat but he plans on having it set up for a day or two before Thrall gets to move in, just to make sure the temps are right. Also, in terms of what will be plywood, the top of the cabinet is going to be solid wood but the sides, back and panels of the lower doors will be 1/2" sapele ply. The whole cabinet is 38" tall, the actual cage part is only going to end up being 21-24" tall with the shelves and floor gap. The inner cage will be approximately 22x22x46 as I'm making a 3/8 ply box for my friend to start doing the fake rock and design work while I'm still building the outer cabinet. 5 hours ago, JosephThomas said: Looks like a nice simple design, fits my taste. If your friend likes it, looks good to me. Seems like a unique project, have fun and keep updating is with your progress! Thanks! Will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Finished the other side last night and I have moved onto cutting the tails for the dovetailed cross bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 This is a pretty cool project, CandorLush ! Hope we get to see some pics of the bearded dragon at the end of this! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 1 hour ago, shaneymack said: This is a pretty cool project, CandorLush ! Hope we get to see some pics of the bearded dragon at the end of this! Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Thanks, I'm sure I'll have a few with him settling in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Tonight's progress isn't much, I screwed up the first rail by cutting the tail on the top side on one end and the front side on the other (perpendicular to each other). Then I cut the gap between the pins too far so I CA glued some thin strips onto the tail and fit the tail to the pins. This was my first attempt at this fix and I'm pleased with how well it went. Also, I should have haunched my tenons because I blew into the mortise when I cut the pins. I'm not terribly worried about it as it is maybe .3"x.5" but if I should be worried, I'd love to know so I can fix it. Thanks for looking, Carl P.s. my user name is just an anagram of my first and last names Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 If i understand correctly, you are missing a bit of the wall of the tail socket? With the mecahincal strength of the dovetail you should be fine. You could glue it all up with epoxy to be extra sure. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 8 minutes ago, shaneymack said: If i understand correctly, you are missing a bit of the wall of the tail socket? With the mecahincal strength of the dovetail you should be fine. You could glue it all up with epoxy to be extra sure. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Yup! Epoxy would have been my go-to so that's good to hear. I'll probably just check the joint again once I do the final dry fit and make the call then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 I wasn't happy with the mortises on the legs so I filled them with some scrap pieces cut to size (with matched grain direction), moved them in another ~1/16" and went over to a local guild members house to recut them on his hollow chisel mortiser. After those were done, I cut a 3/8" grove in the legs and rails and cut a rabbet on the back of some 1/2" sapele ply for the panels to ride in the groove. I blew out the back of one of the legs when I got a catch in the router bit as I cut the groove but it won't affect it in any visible or structural way so I am just leaving it. Next step is to mortise the lower 4 rails in to support the base of the cage and to support the shelf. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 The ribbon is going to look great with finish. Sapele is a wood i want to work with more. I was surprised to find out how it is actually less expensive/same price than walnut. How an imported hardwood from half a world away is cheaper than a tree that grows in my backyard is beyond me. Supply and demand baffles me at times. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Coming along nicely ! The sapele is gorgeous Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post CandorLush Posted October 27, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 I paused for a few weeks to get ready for, go on and recover from vacation but I have been getting back into the shop now. I was able to get the top glued up and prepped, the ends just need to be trimmed to the right side before I add the edge profile but I will hold off on that until I am about to install it. However, my buddy/client wasn't quite happy with how much (not enough) storage it was going to have on the bottom so he is having me increase the height by 7" so the sides have to get redone. He isn't expecting me to do it for free and it will give me a chance to hopefully not make the same errors I did above so I am actually kind of glad to get the chance. I cut a new template last night, milled up a new piece of 8/4 stock and I am ready to get the new legs cut out. Actually, I just realized I used 6/4 for the original legs, it will be interesting to see how they look a little thicker, especially with a taller run. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneymack Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 That's one sweet looking top. Nice work! Love that straight grain. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 The first time I used Sapele was on my Roubo but I am really liking this in furniture. Awesome job!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 27, 2016 Report Share Posted October 27, 2016 Making good progress so far. if you haven't already, you should really take the terrarium occupancy into consideration and the temperature and humidity needs while you build. if I remember correctly, Beardies need a temperature gradient between 105° and 80 or 85°. to get that heat, you'll either be using a ceramic heat emitter or flex watt/herp mat style heat pad. #1 is a better basking source but will turn your enclosure into a non gradient oven with how tall your roof is. There also may need a fan built into the cold side to draw fresh cool air into the cool side, not from the hot side. That may mean cutting out half of your end piece on the cool side and replacing with vents a bit at a time. flex watt should really not be considered unless you use it in the wall and have insulation to keep the plywood from delaminating and failing. Both heat sources, lights, and thermostat probes will have cords. plan for it early. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted October 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 The inside of the structure is going to be 1/2cdx with 1" polystyrene all around. There will be at least one top vent and one side vent that we will be creating ourselves like the ones I posted earlier. Since he is the lizard guy and I'm the wood guy, I made the inner cage so he is getting rolling with the foam and grout now. Once he gets it further along, we plan to meet up to better decide how to get his Reptisun, CHE and other fixtures run through the terrarium. The picture is of the test fit before he picked up the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted October 28, 2016 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 I hope it can be partially disassembled to run wires and cut holes. I learned that any project that envolves installation of devices or technology demands pre planing and test fitting long before anything gets glued up. I learned that plumbers and electricians can destroy a cabinet so I read all the appliance install spec's and cut accurate holes . 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 Given the inside height where the che will mount, I'll guarantee that with only two vents in the style you posted earlier; if the hot side is hot enough at lizard level, the cool side will never get cool enough. I've built a lot of terrariums and every single time, had to expose more and more to fresh air to get a proper gradient. that was also using flex watt which puts out maybe 1/4 the heat to ambient air vs a che. those literally turn any enclosure into an oven with very very little heat change over a 46" span. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 18 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: lizard level I have added this to my vocabulary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted October 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 23 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: Given the inside height where the che will mount, I'll guarantee that with only two vents in the style you posted earlier; if the hot side is hot enough at lizard level, the cool side will never get cool enough. I've built a lot of terrariums and every single time, had to expose more and more to fresh air to get a proper gradient. that was also using flex watt which puts out maybe 1/4 the heat to ambient air vs a che. those literally turn any enclosure into an oven with very very little heat change over a 46" span. Thanks a lot for taking the time, i really appreciate the insight. I have been expecting to have some good sized vents but, with your concerns, I am certainly going to insist we run it, Sans lizard, for awhile to make sure we don't cook/freeze the beardie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted October 28, 2016 Report Share Posted October 28, 2016 Running it and dialing it in for a few days is a good idea. temp/humidity gauge on each end with high/ low recall help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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